Engine Rebuild Cost
- Thread starter Mudball
- Start date
Probably not economical if you can't do the job yourself. Most rebuilds in parts alone cost around $2K. Labor will pretty much double that which is likely more than your unit is worth.
Sometimes you can find the same model of engine with far lower hours on it and have someone change it out for around $2K. It's not often though and you have to spend a lot of time looking for the motor that isn't over priced. You might be able to find a donor tractor of the same type and general year that has busted axles or bad front or something, but that's also pretty rare.
Engine is usually the death of a tractor these days. Some mechanical sort might buy it from you with intent to rebuild, but you usually end up taking the money and buying another used tractor or as a down payment on a new one. Some dealers will take worn out ones in trade, but they don't give much.
If you are just having compression problems, you can sometimes get another year or two with just a ring job on the motor. In that time you can save up enough for a new or a younger used unit.
Sometimes you can find the same model of engine with far lower hours on it and have someone change it out for around $2K. It's not often though and you have to spend a lot of time looking for the motor that isn't over priced. You might be able to find a donor tractor of the same type and general year that has busted axles or bad front or something, but that's also pretty rare.
Engine is usually the death of a tractor these days. Some mechanical sort might buy it from you with intent to rebuild, but you usually end up taking the money and buying another used tractor or as a down payment on a new one. Some dealers will take worn out ones in trade, but they don't give much.
If you are just having compression problems, you can sometimes get another year or two with just a ring job on the motor. In that time you can save up enough for a new or a younger used unit.
Ouch ! The truth hurts.
Thanks for the help.
I guess I would like to think about taking a compression check just for piece of mind. I mean before I go buying all these attachments for the tractor. I know that I could use them with another tractor but it would be my luck to come across another tractor deal for more HP and then it would bother me because I could have stepped up to bigger implements.
Listen to me talking bad. Ive already condemned my tractor before I even check it out.
Compression check results should tell a fairly accurate story ?
Is it worth the time and effort to check since Im just starting with this tractor ?
Thanks for the help.
I guess I would like to think about taking a compression check just for piece of mind. I mean before I go buying all these attachments for the tractor. I know that I could use them with another tractor but it would be my luck to come across another tractor deal for more HP and then it would bother me because I could have stepped up to bigger implements.
Listen to me talking bad. Ive already condemned my tractor before I even check it out.
Compression check results should tell a fairly accurate story ?
Is it worth the time and effort to check since Im just starting with this tractor ?
Compression check can't hurt and it will tell you more of the truth, however, there are some things you can know just by starting the engine.
If it starts on its own, it has good compression in at least one cylinder. If it runs rough but smooths out in a minute or two, it likely has poor compression in one or two of the other cylinders. That means the engine is marginal and on it's last legs, needing a rebuild soon unless you are willing to start using start boosters, which is what I have to do to get my D-17 started. It cannot start on its own even hot.
Now, if it's running smooth and working but you suspect it might be getting a little long in the tooth, start saving your money now for a rebuild or a rebuilt engine and try to find someone that might help you do an engine swap on it.
I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but it's really up to your intuition as to when it will need a new motor. You can always get a case of frosty adult beverage for a buddy that knows what they are doing and have them check it out for you if you are unsure.
If it starts on its own, it has good compression in at least one cylinder. If it runs rough but smooths out in a minute or two, it likely has poor compression in one or two of the other cylinders. That means the engine is marginal and on it's last legs, needing a rebuild soon unless you are willing to start using start boosters, which is what I have to do to get my D-17 started. It cannot start on its own even hot.
Now, if it's running smooth and working but you suspect it might be getting a little long in the tooth, start saving your money now for a rebuild or a rebuilt engine and try to find someone that might help you do an engine swap on it.
I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but it's really up to your intuition as to when it will need a new motor. You can always get a case of frosty adult beverage for a buddy that knows what they are doing and have them check it out for you if you are unsure.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Mudball,
If the engine has little or no breather blow-by then a compression check would tell you if it need the valves adjusted or head repaired.
If the engine has little or no breather blow-by then a compression check would tell you if it need the valves adjusted or head repaired.
Thank you both for the help.
Right now it doesnt start every time the first crank up attempt if its cold and after holding glow plugs 7 seconds. Next few times I will try holding the glow plugs longer. Sometimes on the second cranking attempt I barely depress the throttle, try again and it cranks right up with a smooth operation. No exhaust smoke and nothing dripping or noticeable coming from blow-by.
Im going to check around for someone that can check the compression at a reasonable cost. I want peace of mind before I invest a whole lot more.
Thanks again.
Right now it doesnt start every time the first crank up attempt if its cold and after holding glow plugs 7 seconds. Next few times I will try holding the glow plugs longer. Sometimes on the second cranking attempt I barely depress the throttle, try again and it cranks right up with a smooth operation. No exhaust smoke and nothing dripping or noticeable coming from blow-by.
Im going to check around for someone that can check the compression at a reasonable cost. I want peace of mind before I invest a whole lot more.
Thanks again.
Mudball, why not pull the valve cover and adjust the valves. Then see how it starts, runs. Then decide if you need further investigation. (unless you have a compression tester for diesels laying around)
I think you're over analyzing this tractor. It's not new off the show room floor, don't expect it to act like it is.
Get valves adjusted up, play with it for a few hours and see then how it acts. Save your money!!
I think you're over analyzing this tractor. It's not new off the show room floor, don't expect it to act like it is.
Get valves adjusted up, play with it for a few hours and see then how it acts. Save your money!!
Thanks
You probably hit the nail on the head. I worry too much.
When I replaced the steering box I cleaned and flushed the fuel tank. Man was it nasty. Im getting ready to replace the fuel and air filter next. Air filter doesnt look bad but Im betting that fuel filter is. I will pay attention to how it starts after that. Could that be part of the problem ?
I like the idea of at least checking and adjusting the valves.
Are they like the type that have the lock nut, turn adjust threaded center to spec and then re-tighten locking nut ?
I will see if I can find full procedure in WSM.
"Are they like the type that have the lock nut, turn adjust threaded center to spec and then re-tighten locking nut ?"
YES, that all you have to do. You should be able to reuse the valve cover gasket also.
I don't know the exact spec. for adjustment but it's like .008 cold for intake and exhaust. Might do a search here on the forum and get the answer.
YES, that all you have to do. You should be able to reuse the valve cover gasket also.
I don't know the exact spec. for adjustment but it's like .008 cold for intake and exhaust. Might do a search here on the forum and get the answer.
I wouldn't be concerned about any timing marks. The engine is running, so it can't be too far off.
Get your feeler gauge and rotate the engine until it fits, then adjust to your liking. Keep doing the same thing. It's probably going to be within a couple of thousands on each valve. You're just doing a fine tune.
You'll be done in half an hour if you don't go drink a soda!!
Get your feeler gauge and rotate the engine until it fits, then adjust to your liking. Keep doing the same thing. It's probably going to be within a couple of thousands on each valve. You're just doing a fine tune.
You'll be done in half an hour if you don't go drink a soda!!