Engine oil question.

[chris142]

I searched but that just locked up my phone.

My 7510 may sit weeks between being started.

The book shows sae30,10w30 and 15w40 can be used.

We can ignore sae30 as finding that here with the proper specs is impossible.

Wouldn't a 5w40 be a better choice? That should flow faster than a 10w30 or a 15w40 when cold starting it or after sitting weeks.

Thoughts?

 

[McMXi]

Oh good ... an oil thread!

I run 5W-40 full synthetic in both tractors and both trucks.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

welcome aboard.... manuals don't know where in the world you are going to use your tractor. Deserts temps 100+ of middle east or arctic -40 of Canada???? They have no clue at time of manufacture where unit will end up. Also as time goes on oil spec's change and old rec's may not be time appropriate,

So most any modern, seasonally appropriate, diesel rated oil will work fine. In your climate a 5/30, 10/30, 5/40 are all in your climate range.

I use 0/40 as -30 degree starts can be hard on engines so the little extra thinner is welcome at startup.

Edit: T6 full synthetic here... a little pricey but well worth it in extremes. If its on your store shelf, diesel rated, made by a National brand, and taking up a lot of shelf space (popular) then probably good to go.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I searched but that just locked up my phone.

My 7510 may sit weeks between being started.

The book shows sae30,10w30 and 15w40 can be used.

We can ignore sae30 as finding that here with the proper specs is impossible.

Wouldn't a 5w40 be a better choice? That should flow faster than a 10w30 or a 15w40 when cold starting it or after sitting weeks.

Thoughts?

Where you live, you should probbaly stick with 15W-40.
You don't get cold enough to worry about it.

 

[Bee-Positive]

As stated above - Diesel Rated Oil - do not use the same oil as you use in your car.
10/30 should be fine for your area.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

JK…...


Rotella 5w-40 full synthetic, would be a good choice.

I recently switched to it for the tractor since it gets pretty cold here, and I found a “stupid good” rebate deal…..

I’ve been using Rotella for 25+ years in my diesels and I like it.

But I’m sure there are guys that have been using “Penzoil" for 40+ years and they are happy with it too………Soooo, just pick your "favorite flavor" of 5-40’ish "Diesel rated” oil and go for it.

 

[GeoHorn]

WalMart SuperTech 15W40

Everything else is SuperFluous

 

[McMXi]

Where you live, you should probbaly stick with 15W-40.
You don't get cold enough to worry about it.

If I lived in such a place I'd use 15W-40 too.

" December, the first month of the winter in Apple Valley, is also a fresh month, with an average temperature varying between 53.2°F (11.8°C) and 38.3°F (3.5°C). The coldest month is December, with an average high-temperature of 53.2°F (11.8°C) and an average low-temperature of 38.3°F (3.5°C). "

 

[chris142]

Where you live, you should probbaly stick with 15W-40.
You don't get cold enough to worry about it.

Even if it sits weeks without being started? Seems like a 15w40 would take a long time to get flowing.?

 

[chris142]

WalMart SuperTech 15W40

Everything else is SuperFluous

View attachment 170536

Stuff did well in my peterbilt. Has the same add pack as Delvac 1300

 

[GeoHorn]

Even if it sits weeks without being started? Seems like a 15w40 would take a long time to get flowing.?

That oil can sit for YEARS….and it will STILL be ON the bearings, shafts, etc…. instantly ready to lubricate at start-up.

(It’s a common “worry” many owners have about initial oil pressure at startup. But engines do NOT wear out bearings and there-by need overhaul/rebuild. Ever.
I’ve disassembled engines that have sat for Years… and the bearings and everything inside is still coated with oil.)

Engines wear-out and need overhaul because the piston-rings (especially the top ring) ..and valves (especially exhaust) ..are worn-out and burnt or pitted. Engines have been torn-down after many thousands of hours and the bearings could be RE-Used! No kidding.)

 

[chris142]

Engines wear-out and need overhaul because the piston-rings (especially the top ring) ..and valves (especially exhaust) ..are worn-out and burnt or pitted. Engines have been torn-down after many thousands of hours and the bearings could be RE-Used! No kidding.)

I have had the opposite experience. I seem to lose the bottom end long before the top end wears out. Have replaced many bearings due to wear but the rings were still good.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Even if it sits weeks without being started? Seems like a 15w40 would take a long time to get flowing.?

It simply doesn't matter on these engines.

In all my years I've yet to see a single Kubota engine that i can say was a definite oil starvation or lack of lubrication issue.
I know it can happen but it's extremely rare.

Your temps do not dictate the need to drop the Viscosity.

 

[GeoHorn]

I have had the opposite experience. I seem to lose the bottom end long before the top end wears out. Have replaced many bearings due to wear but the rings were still good.

Then it wasn’t the bearings. It’s the shaft or other issue.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have had the opposite experience. I seem to lose the bottom end long before the top end wears out. Have replaced many bearings due to wear but the rings were still good.

Journal bearings float on a hydrodynamic film and will will go forever like that. Bearings wear in mixed and boundary mode lubtication which occurs at startuo, shutdown, lugging, and loss of oil supply. Thats why 0W20. 0w30 and 0W40 grades have gained so much popularity with OEMs.

Dan