Electric issues - BX 23

[GarySand]

I've been having some issues with my BX 23, and hoping for some ideas based on the symptoms.
Fuel cut off:
I had this issue for a while where the fuel cut off wouldn't work. What it's supposed to do is extend the rod that cut's off the fuel when turning off the tractor, but it would send voltage when turning on the tractor and as such the tractor wouldn't turn on.
I couldn't figure out the issue and worked around it by disconnecting the wiring to the cut off solenoid and just manually turned it off with the rod (It's a little hard to explain unless you know the BX 23)

So anyway, the solenoid was good, the issue was the electric and I couldn't figure it out.

Now, I'm getting no power to the fuel pump. The pump is good, and bench tested it with a battery and it clicks and shakes.

The fuses are good. I have 4 fuses, a 20a, 15a, 15a, 15a

Here's what I've tried;
The first 2 fuse block show a voltage when the ignition key is turned on and the second two don't.

I don't see any chewed wires.
Thinking it could be the main ignition but not sure.

Here's the electric diagram if it helps and hoping for some ideas on what to try.
I'm not sure of the path to the fuel pump wiring - If I turn the ignition to the on position position, that's when it should click right?
So if 2 of the fuse blocks don't get voltage when it's in that position, I'm guessing that's one issue.

Sorry - not sure I'm explaining this correctly.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Let's first verify which model you have.
Do you have a BX23S (fairly new)?
Or do you have a BX23D (fairly old)?

 

[GarySand]

Very very old - I believe just BX 23 (not sure if it's D but definitely not S)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Very very old - I believe just BX 23 (not sure if it's D but definitely not S)

Then yes it's a BX23D

Do you have a Test light, quickest way to get to the bottom of this.

Turn the key to run and check these fuse for power in and power out.

 

[GarySand]

I don’t have a light meter but in the ON position if I remove the fuse and stick the probes of a voltmeter into each end I get 12V. Does that help? And these are the fuses by the battery right?

With the probes in each end and on the ON position shouldn’t I be getting continuity? I don’t.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don’t have a light meter but in the ON position if I remove the fuse and stick the probes of a voltmeter into each end I get 12V. Does that help? And these are the fuses by the battery right?

With the probes in each end and on the ON position shouldn’t I be getting continuity? I don’t.

With the fuses in, you can probe the back of the fuse (there is a contact surface), you should see 12V on each side of the fuse.

 

[GarySand]

yes I get 12V for each of those 2 fuse blocks

 

[GarySand]

Ok it’s working now - probably something loose but I disconnected the main switch and fuses and after I reconnected it all the fuel pump works - thanks. Still have the issue with the fuel solenoid though. Any thoughts on that?

 

[Russell King]

See if you are getting 12V to the connector for the fuel solenoid with the key in the run position. You will need to use battery negative for ground and may need to probe all the terminals (2 or 3?)

Repeat with the key in start position (tractor cranking the engine if possible)

Then with the engine running turn key to off and repeat tests (running to off on each terminal)

Report your findings and then someone will be able to help you.

Or find the workshop manual and follow the troubleshooting instructions in it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That model uses a timer to engage the stop solenoid for approximately 5 sec after you turn the key off.
It has a 2 power inputs one constant and one switched.
If the 2 inputs are right then you have a bad timer.

Red/green is constant power
Yellow is switched
Black is ground
Output to stop solenoid is White