Easier way to take off/ put on ballast box

ZipFunk

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Equipment
2380, T1880
Sep 10, 2021
26
4
3
Canada
If this is the wrong forum I apologize.
I often find myself putting on/taking off the ballast box of my 2380.
when I take it off it sits on a platform of 4X4s. No problem.
Putting it back on is always a pain. Lining up the three point hitch is okay. But getting the right height for the lower two of the hitch always entails me screwing around lowering and raising the hitch and both always seem to be at different heights (I realize the platform isn’t accurate.
I just came here to see if anyone here has a great way to do this that my dried up brain is missing.
 
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GrumpyFarmer

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Mine sites on a harbor freight dolly….makes it a whole lot easier to massage it back on.

A year or so ago I added Pats, and that made a big difference…I still use the dolly though, makes it really easy to move out of the way.

I hope this helps.
 

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
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A quick hitch or Pat’s is probably the best answer.

If you don’t do one of those, remember the hitch height floats. Set the height lower than you need it. Grab one of the lift arms and pick it up to the height needed to match up with the pin. If the height on the second arm doesn’t line up after you hook up the first side, you’ll have to set the height of the second side using the adjustable side link.

Aligning forward/rearward, if you have any trouble aligning perfectly, start with the tractor a half inch or so too far back. It’s a lot easier to hip check the tractor forward a bit while hooking up the lift arm to the implement than trying to pull it rearward.

Having implements on dollies on a smooth concrete floor helps quite a lot.

The above works for small tractors and implements on relatively flat ground. I’m aware there’s a point where tractor and implement size relative to operator size make the above impractical. At some point you either need two people or some sort of quick hitch. I don’t have a quick hitch. I’m aware that’s a bit odd.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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I built a dolly and use a “quick hitch”.

As fate would have it though , I almost never use the ballast box since the BH is on 98.898% of the time.

It still looks cool sitting in the corner…...;)
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Kinda sounds like you're putting the top link on first and THEN the lower arms ? I've always done... right lower arm,PTO shaft( if needed) , lower left arm, the the top link. Having both tractor and implements on level ground is critical for EASY installs.
 

FTG-05

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L4330 w/FEL, RTV-XG850 and ZD326S
Jul 21, 2013
307
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Quick Hitch. Work Smarter, Not Harder.
 
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ZipFunk

New member

Equipment
2380, T1880
Sep 10, 2021
26
4
3
Canada
Mine sites on a harbor freight dolly….makes it a whole lot easier to massage it back on.

A year or so ago I added Pats, and that made a big difference…I still use the dolly though, makes it really easy to move out of the way.

I hope this helps.
It does. Can you post a photo of the dolly so I know what to look for?
 

MapleLeafFarmer

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Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
798
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E.
I have never had a tractor that small so maybe I am way out in left field but here are some thoughts from a guy who changes rear implements frequently on bigger stuff.

Are you unhooking your check chains first before backing into the attachment? this gives you horizontal movement of bar end.
Back into implement with bar ends lower than implement mount, dismount and simply by hand lift the lift arm to get the vertical alignment correct.
Tricky part is how far to back into the implement this takes some jockeying.

cheers
 

imarobot

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5740HSTC-3, FDR2584 Finish Mower, BH92 Backhoe, L2195A Snowblower, LA854 FEL, +
Apr 18, 2025
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Quick Hitch. Work Smarter, Not Harder.
Pat's for me. I found that a 3 point quick hitch gets in the way of fighting to get the pto drive shaft on and off.
Also, if you're storing you ballast box outside and it gets cold where you live, make sure it's on some sort of platform. If not, the ballast will sink slightly into the ground and may freeze stuck in the ground.
 
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ZipFunk

New member

Equipment
2380, T1880
Sep 10, 2021
26
4
3
Canada
I have never had a tractor that small so maybe I am way out in left field but here are some thoughts from a guy who changes rear implements frequently on bigger stuff.

Are you unhooking your check chains first before backing into the attachment? this gives you horizontal movement of bar end.
Back into implement with bar ends lower than implement mount, dismount and simply by hand lift the lift arm to get the vertical alignment correct.
Tricky part is how far to back into the implement this takes some jockeying.

cheers
Backing to the box is not bad. Its really just getting the vertical alignment for where I put the lower two pins in.
The top 'arm' of the hitch is fine. I just find myself trying to get the right height and depth to align the pins. When I get one inevitably the other isnt aligned and I have to futz with it endlessly. I was just hoping there was an easier way I wasn't aware of
 

imarobot

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5740HSTC-3, FDR2584 Finish Mower, BH92 Backhoe, L2195A Snowblower, LA854 FEL, +
Apr 18, 2025
178
83
28
NH
Telescoping lower links help and you should be able to adjust one of the lower links to match the height f the other link.
 

Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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Since it sounds like your main issue is with the two arm attachments to the pins, here is how I do that.

1) lower the arms below the attachment pin level.
2) remove the pin from the check chain or telescopic stabilizer.
3) back up to implement so that the hole in the arm aligns to the pin. Focus on the non adjustable side (usually on the left side looking forward).
4) put tractor in Neutral and leave the brake off if that is safe to do (don’t get run over by tractor rolling )
5) on the non adjustable side lift the arm up to the level of the pin and get the ball started onto the pin if possible. You may need to be sure the opposite side arm is not hitting the implement as you try to lift the arm. You may need to move the tractor or the implement to get the socket onto the pin. Once it is started, you can usually kick it fully onto the pin. Install the lynch pin if you can.

[as mentioned already you may need to use the tractor tire to move the tractor slightly forward or backwards by grabbing the OD of the tire and pulling or pushing it. This is easy with R1 and R4 tires but harder with R3 tires. To move a ballast box around you may need to use a long pry bar of some sort. I use a rock breaking bar.]

6) Now see how close the other side is to alignment with the pin. You can adjust the height if needed with the adjustable side link. You can adjust the height of the implement but a ballast box will require a pry bar and a shim underneath the implement to move it up. Don’t get injured by doing this! You can also now use the tractor hydraulics and transmission to move the implement around a little bit if you have good control over moving the tractor slightly or the arm slightly. I generally only try to push back on the implement to align the pin better but it is a little risky, you could bend the implements or arms.
7) Get this alignment done and install that arm and lynch pin.
8) install the top link
9) lift implement slightly and level it front to back as needed
10) look at how much it needs to be leveled side to side. Set down and adjust the level. (If you have a hydraulic side link that makes this so much easier)

You can go to your dealer and they should be able to show you how they do it and give you pointers.
 
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jimh406

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Kubota L2501 with R4 tires
Jan 29, 2021
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I've never used my ballast box which is kind of funny since I thought I needed it based on suggestions here. It is a really cheap one.

I've been planning on cutting the top and rewelding so my QH will work with it. Then, it will be easy to hook up. However, the fix hasn't been a priority since I usually just have a heavy rear implement on instead.

Maybe I'll use it once I change the top link connection. ;). In any case, mine would be easy to use as is if I didn't have a QH.

One more thing, the bottom links seem pretty low to the ground, so that might be another change I need to make to make it sit higher.
 

Donystoy

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LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
Dec 10, 2013
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I have lots of these of various sizes. Some I have fastened plywood to the top like the one that holds my grapple. Even my tiller sits on two small ones. Just makes it so convenient to attach or move around the shop. You cannot buy the casters for what they cost.