I bought a used M59 a few months back that is in great condition, but I had not noticed until a few months of ownership that there was some damage to the right backhoe stabilizer leg. The pin that holds the upper portion of the cylinder for the leg appears to be broken. As you can see in the attached photos the upper ears that hold the pin are flared out and a portion of the pin protrudes beyond the ear more than it should. This issue essentially causes the leg to move as though the pin is arc shaped and the leg cannot lift all the way up, thus when it is all the way up the foot sits further out than the tire (see photo).
Even though the stabilizer is functioning and there has not been any operational issue I want to fix this because I often use it in my woods and fear getting the leg hung up on something and causing more damage. I could use some input on doing the repair. I have purchased the replacement pin already from the dealer, it is a 1 ¼” diameter pin.
First, does anyone know the steel grade on ears? Be nice to know what I am working with.
My plan to remove the pin is to cut through it with a thin cutting disc on my large grinder. The portion of the pin protruding seems to be seized and the other half has no purchase (or clearance) to pull on, so cutting seems to be my only option. Other ideas are welcome.
My first thought was to utilize 1” threaded rod with DOM stock I machined one end down into a cone shape to aid in alignment. With this I would use a spacer between the ears so I knew how far to compress. Then I would use the nuts to draw the ears in. I figure the only way this will work is to apply heat. Are there any concerns with applying heat? Am I likely to fatigue the steel too much? Will I greatly weaken the ears and put the stability and strength of the leg at risk long term? Will I crack/tear the steel without heat?
Another method would be to use the threaded rod as a guide with the cones but instead of using the nuts I would use a hollow hydraulic cylinder as a puller with my porta-power. I would still use the spacer to prevent over compression. I assume the ears are plastically deformed, but I am concerned with how to over come that and re-position the ears correctly, will I have to significantly over compress due to spring back?
Do you think I can get the ears aligned good enough to fit the OEM pin? I have purchased a 1.25” diameter, long ream and thought I would have a machine shop machine a taper on the first ½” of the ream to help start it and then use it to get the holes aligned, but worry there might be too much material to remove.
Lastly, I live in SE MI, if there is anyone you would recommend for this type of repair I would be interested in contacting them. I would be curious to learn about anyone’s experience in doing a similar repair or if someone has a better reference for what to call this repair (I have been calling it stabilizer ear repair) to search for videos online, please share.
Even though the stabilizer is functioning and there has not been any operational issue I want to fix this because I often use it in my woods and fear getting the leg hung up on something and causing more damage. I could use some input on doing the repair. I have purchased the replacement pin already from the dealer, it is a 1 ¼” diameter pin.
First, does anyone know the steel grade on ears? Be nice to know what I am working with.
My plan to remove the pin is to cut through it with a thin cutting disc on my large grinder. The portion of the pin protruding seems to be seized and the other half has no purchase (or clearance) to pull on, so cutting seems to be my only option. Other ideas are welcome.
My first thought was to utilize 1” threaded rod with DOM stock I machined one end down into a cone shape to aid in alignment. With this I would use a spacer between the ears so I knew how far to compress. Then I would use the nuts to draw the ears in. I figure the only way this will work is to apply heat. Are there any concerns with applying heat? Am I likely to fatigue the steel too much? Will I greatly weaken the ears and put the stability and strength of the leg at risk long term? Will I crack/tear the steel without heat?
Another method would be to use the threaded rod as a guide with the cones but instead of using the nuts I would use a hollow hydraulic cylinder as a puller with my porta-power. I would still use the spacer to prevent over compression. I assume the ears are plastically deformed, but I am concerned with how to over come that and re-position the ears correctly, will I have to significantly over compress due to spring back?
Do you think I can get the ears aligned good enough to fit the OEM pin? I have purchased a 1.25” diameter, long ream and thought I would have a machine shop machine a taper on the first ½” of the ream to help start it and then use it to get the holes aligned, but worry there might be too much material to remove.
Lastly, I live in SE MI, if there is anyone you would recommend for this type of repair I would be interested in contacting them. I would be curious to learn about anyone’s experience in doing a similar repair or if someone has a better reference for what to call this repair (I have been calling it stabilizer ear repair) to search for videos online, please share.
