D1105 no start after injector pump replaced

[Fintan]

I recently purchased a replacement injector pump for my D1105 powered generator. It won't start unless I remove the cover that holds the throttle linkage and push the rack to the left as far as it will go, what adjustments do I need to make to the pump to get the engine running?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Did you remove all the shims off from under the original pump and install them under the new pump?

You don't need or are able to do any adjustments to the pump to make it start.

Does it have a fuel stop / run solenoid on the engine, and if it does is it operating?

 

[Fintan]

Did you remove all the shims off from under the original pump and install them under the new pump?

You don't need or are able to do any adjustments to the pump to make it start.

Does it have a fuel stop / run solenoid on the engine, and if it does is it operating?

Thanks for the reply.
Yes there's a fuel cut off solenoid on the engine and it's operating correctly, the first thing I did was completely remove it, just in case, when the engine failed to start after fitting the new pump.
There were no shims under the pump, just a gasket, that's not something I would have missed.
You say there's no adjustment possible but based on the slotted holes in the flange on each pumping element, shouldn't it be possible to increase or reduce fuel delivery or possibly alter injection timing based on the position each flange is set to in relation to the fuel inlet port on each pump cylinder/ plunger assembly?
See attached highlighted photo of the old injection pump.

 

[Russell King]

I recently purchased a replacement injector pump for my D1105 powered generator. It won't start unless I remove the cover that holds the throttle linkage and push the rack to the left as far as it will go, what adjustments do I need to make to the pump to get the engine running?

Where did you get the replacement from? Is it rebuilt or used or what?

And why did you need to replace the pump (out of idle curiosity)?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks for the reply.
Yes there's a fuel cut off solenoid on the engine and it's operating correctly, the first thing I did was completely remove it, just in case, when the engine failed to start after fitting the new pump.
There were no shims under the pump, just a gasket, that's not something I would have missed.
You say there's no adjustment possible but based on the slotted holes in the flange on each pumping element, shouldn't it be possible to increase or reduce fuel delivery or possibly alter injection timing based on the position each flange is set to in relation to the fuel inlet port on each pump cylinder/ plunger assembly?
See attached highlighted photo of the old injection pump. View attachment 101061

That was not a gasket that was a timing shim or shims, there is no gasket under that pump!

Those slots are for setting the curve of the pump, it's done by the rebuilder to match all the pumps to the same output, There is a reason there are TAMPER PROFF screws in there, do not change those settings.
Are you sure you bleed all the air out of the injector lines all the way to the injectors?
Are you sure when you installed the pump that you lined up the rack pin with the governor and throttle control?

 

[Fintan]

Where did you get the replacement from? Is it rebuilt or used or what?

And why did you need to replace the pump (out of idle curiosity)?

Hi Russell, the reason i had to replace the pump was because the original pump had two siezed plungers due to rust and also a broken spring on one, the diesel shop I've always used over the years to do up pumps and injectors had a go at it but said it was junk, so I got the replacement pump from a company in the Netherlands, called Dieselservice Stokking BV, I found them on the net following advice from the main kubota agent in Ireland (South Coast diesels), who in fairness to the salesman I spoke to, advised me that I'd find a replacement pump cheaper than they could supply it if I looked around, south coast's price was 800 bills, which is almost a third of the price of a new engine, the pump I got from Dieselservice Stokking BV was brand new and only 450 bills plus postage, it was surplus stock, that's why it was such a good deal.

 

[Fintan]

That was not a gasket that was a timing shim or shims, there is no gasket under that pump!

Those slots are for setting the curve of the pump, it's done by the rebuilder to match all the pumps to the same output, There is a reason there are TAMPER PROFF screws in there, do not change those settings.
Are you sure you bleed all the air out of the injector lines all the way to the injectors?
Are you sure when you installed the pump that you lined up the rack pin with the governor and throttle control?

Ok so I figured out the problem, it turned out when I fitted the pump the pin on the rack wasn't engaged correctly with the governor mechanism, it turned out that I simply needed to turn the lever highlighted in the attached photo fully clockwise while putting the pump in position for the pin to engage in the correct place.

The generator is running fine now and even running a bit cleaner and quieter than it had before the old pump failed.
As regards the timing shims under the pump, when I removed the pump this time around i discovered that there is a steel shim under the fiber gasket fitted to my engine, I suspect someone had the pump off previously and possibly lost some of the shims and replaced them with a home made fiber gasket, so just in case i checked the spill timing and it's accurate, I may replace the fiber gasket with the correct shims at some point but it's ok for the moment, at least the generator is running again.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Russell King]

Thank you for the information on why you replaced the pump.

Glad you got it sorted out and thank you for posting the solution for the problem.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ok so I figured out the problem, it turned out when I fitted the pump the pin on the rack wasn't engaged correctly with the governor mechanism, it turned out that I simply needed to turn the lever highlighted in the attached photo fully clockwise while putting the pump in position for the pin to engage in the correct place.
View attachment 101536 The generator is running fine now and even running a bit cleaner and quieter than it had before the old pump failed.
As regards the timing shims under the pump, when I removed the pump this time around i discovered that there is a steel shim under the fiber gasket fitted to my engine, I suspect someone had the pump off previously and possibly lost some of the shims and replaced them with a home made fiber gasket, so just in case i checked the spill timing and it's accurate, I may replace the fiber gasket with the correct shims at some point but it's ok for the moment, at least the generator is running again.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Excellent to hear!