Crack In Hydraulic Cylinder Case

[SmokeyBear20252]

This is not my day. For a few weeks now, I've noticed an oil film around the PTO spline and finally got around to tracking it down. It appears the leak is coming from a crack in the hydraulic cylinder case. I suspect I may have backed into something with the box blade but that's immaterial at this point. I checked the price of the case (part number 6C190-36033) and found that it lists for $688.06. I hate to think of the labor cost of having it installed and it's certainly beyond my capability. It's going to be expensive either way but I was wondering, would it be possible, once this thing is removed, to have it welded rather than replaced? I've attached a photo below.

Thanks,

Bruce

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Welding cast is tricky but can be done by a good welder.
I'm not a bad welder, but when I needed my transmission case fixed I took it to a great welder and they fixed me right up.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I wouldnt think twice about getting it welded. Not sure of the work to remove it.
Looks like its not the vertical part, but the lower bit to left of vertical crack. Housing looks a little distorted.
No point speculating, tear it down and fix it. Or add oil and run it.
Dealer may not like the idea of sending case out to get welded, may have to find an independent shop to disassemble.
Possible chance this is a defect rather than an incident.

 

[BravoXray]

I think you could get that welded, based upon what I can see in the photo. You might even be able to clean in up and patch it with JB Weld. I might try that first, if it stops the leak then fine, if not then spend the money on repairs. If I were to pull it all apart I would probably buy the new part just for the peace of mind of not having to do it twice, you might have other damage we can't see until you get it all apart. Welding cast iron isn't likely to be cheap.
Good luck with your repairs!

Jerry

 

[Tooljunkie]

According to my welder/machinist/fabricator buddy, the cast iron of late is friendlier to weld compared to the early days.as recycling continues, the cast is becoming less like cast and more like steel.

I did repair a briggs crankcase, had a 3" long crack.i split the case to repair it though. Cleaned sanded and used Tech Steel epoxy putty. It does seep a tiny bit, but not bad for needing a crancase 19/20 years ago. Still runs.

 

[ShaunRH]

For an area that is intended to get some 'flex' pressure, brazing is superior to welding, it gives since it's silicone bronze. Do not use nickel steel to weld if it gets flex stress, it will just crack again right next to the nickel steel weld. Stainless steel is now being used to weld up these kinds of cracks. It's more flexible than nickel steel and stronger than brazing.

You need to get someone that knows what they are doing.

I don't know the model of tractor, but if it's old enough, you can usually find one with a burned up engine or bad tranny that makes for a good parts unit.

 

[ThisIsNotaStep]

paint looks to be in the crack?? ie was that way to begin with .. if the crack was the problem I'd expect ALLOT more oil saturating pine needles and dirt below it .. I don't think that's your problem, pressure wash everthing and look for the source somewhere else ..

 

[SmokeyBear20252]

Thanks for all of the replies.

If it's not actually coming from the crack, it looks as if there is a gasket at the lower end of the crack. I wonder if it could be a leaking gasket? Either way, it looks as if there's going to be some major dis-assembly involved.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I may get shunned for this, but what have you got to lose?
Locate all the bolts holding that housing together and give them a little snugging. Im not saying crank each bolt like its holding whole tractor together, just a tweak. One nearest crack last. If you can only get at a few, its not worth the trouble, could make it worse.

 

[SmokeyBear20252]

I'll give that a try. As you said, just a little snugging may be all it needs. If it doesn't help at all, there's no harm done.

 

[Diydave]

if you are going to tighten them up, I'd do it like you tighten a head, and use a torque wrench. Tighten one nearest the crack, first, then one opposite. Repeat and go around the circle. Look up what the torque should be, for that sized bolt...

 

[tetontractor]

How did this work out? I have the same crack!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There is no fluid up that high and the crack looks like it doesn't go past the bolt hole behind it, I wouldn't worry about it.
It's not affecting anything, and there isn't any stress on it.