Today I started my MX5400 and it fired right up. The tractor sits outside and it was about 12F and has been in the single digits the past few days. About 20 minutes after starting, the RPMs slowed, then revved several times then the engine died. In the fuel filter the fuel looked "slushy" - not frozen, but not clear either. I let it sit about 10 mins and tried again. It fired right up and ran the rest of the time. The fuel in the filter cleared up as well. Was this the dreaded gelling of the fuel?
Cold Diesel Fuel?
- Thread starter Borane4
- Start date
je1279
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LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Sure sounds like it. Your lucky you got it to fire up again. It's a blast to try to fix in those kind of temps.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Hopefully the weather will pass down it Texas - place some power service white bottle in there and diesel on!
Bmyers
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Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
My M5660 has a fuel cooler in front of the radiator! That should be a big plus in sub-zero temperatures.
I took a fuel sample from the bottom of my bulk tank into a mason jar and set it out in the wx to see if it would gel. It didn’t. But by the time I thought to try this experiment (to see if I’d bought summer or winter blend last late-spring)... the temps were already around 20-F...
So I’ve placed it in my deep freeze.... and overnight it ...A L M O S T ... turned to gel....it’s taken on a slightly ”milky” appearance but not fully gelled. I’m guessing I’ve got a mixture of last winter’s and this last spring’s red dyed diesel.
Being down here in central Tx I never thought I’d need anti-gel. Next year I might buy some Stanadyne (based upon the YouTube video test posted earlier).... or if I can’t find it my second choice will be the Hot Shot.
Sooo..... what is the down-side to running anti-Gel during the summertime in higher temps, if any?
So I’ve placed it in my deep freeze.... and overnight it ...A L M O S T ... turned to gel....it’s taken on a slightly ”milky” appearance but not fully gelled. I’m guessing I’ve got a mixture of last winter’s and this last spring’s red dyed diesel.
Being down here in central Tx I never thought I’d need anti-gel. Next year I might buy some Stanadyne (based upon the YouTube video test posted earlier).... or if I can’t find it my second choice will be the Hot Shot.
Sooo..... what is the down-side to running anti-Gel during the summertime in higher temps, if any?
Bmyers
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
STA-BIL Diesel All Season | Gold Eagle
I run Sta-bil All Season in my fuel which is good for year around use. Protects to -40.
I run Sta-bil All Season in my fuel which is good for year around use. Protects to -40.
Ordinary Stabil diesel doesn’t do anything for you as regards gelling... because I always use it when I refill my bulk tank..... maybe that All-Season will.
I used to have a new Holland that would collect water in this little flexible fuel line that was shaped like a sink trap. Somehow moisture would always get into the fuel, it never effected anything Whalen it was warm but as soon as it got below freezing that line would lock up tighter than a crabs ass
If there is one I’ve yet to find it.
we do get some 80-90° weather up here for a few days a year.....
I put white PS additive in fuel all year. More for the lube for the HPFP in the VW. It’s at the local auto parts store, (other brands may not be). Cheap insurance and in the fall if winter blend is not swapped in quick enough (and how would we know) the fuel will be fine. It’s not unusual to get below 0f here in October.....
I've been adding Power service white during the cold months and silver in the summer and never had any issue in about thirty years in my equipment. Change the oil and clean or change the fuel filter (s) in the fall.
Near the 45th parallel, temp range is about 10* below F to about 90* F.
Near the 45th parallel, temp range is about 10* below F to about 90* F.
Here’s how water can get into a fuel system you believe is “water-tight”:
Your engine consumes fuel and the dropping fuel-level in the tank is replaced by atmosphere which has humidity. (Air above the fuel level in a tank is called “ullage”.)
That tank cools down (especially a LOT if it sits above the engine) every night... during the day it warms up and air is expelled thru the vent...and at night cools down and air is sucked into the tank via the vent.... and moisture condenses on the tank walls and runs down and ..since water is heavier than fuel, sinks to the bottom where it either flows by gravity or is sucked out by the fuel pump to settle in other places (such as your low-point in your fuel line) or gets to your pump ....causing it to lose lubrication ...and to your injectors causing them to be damaged from the steam generated by that high-pressure fuel entering the injector.
Keep in mind adding anti-gel when its already cold out does nothing. Anti-gel must be added prior to the temps getting below zero or near zero in order for it to work properly. I'm told putting some in the truck right at the pump and then filling up is best, for both the mixing action and the fact that the underground tanks are heated slightly.
I had the fuel gel in my 2017 Super Duty, but the temps were hitting -20F for a few days.
I had the fuel gel in my 2017 Super Duty, but the temps were hitting -20F for a few days.