Click click click

[johnjk]

Went to start the B3200 this afternoon to move some firewood to the house. Click click click. Threw the jump pack on and she started right up. Guess it is time to replace the battery once more. This one is 2018 vintage. Time to head to Rural King and get another. For those keeping count, B1700 and Polaris batteries both died in November. It had been on the battery tender since I cut firewood but I noticed today that both the yellow and green lights were flashing on the tender.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You might also replace both battery cables and adjust fan belt. If the battery wasn't getting properly recharged..you'll get the 'click,click,click'......
Battery tenders are 'trickle' chargers not 'battery chargers'. Depending on temperature ,battery condition and wiring connections a BT might not actually work as expected.

 

[johnjk]

I did throw a volt meter on it when running and I had 14.3V at 1200 rpm. I don’t have a battery charger, just the battery tender. Didn’t think to check the belt. Will do that after dinner.

 

[KKBL]

If the battery tender does not have the light mode information printed on the unit (flashing color lights = what issues) try to find that information from the tender manufacturer online.
It may have just had a poor connection when you put it on the last time, or indicate that the battery did not have enough charge to maintain it.
Did you try putting the tender back on after you jump started and used the tractor enough to fully charge the battery to see if it was working properly?
I check every time after hooking up a battery tender to make sure everything is functioning correctly.

 

[RCW]

John - - just curious what tender are you using?

Sure you have a good connection between tender and battery?

I've been using a couple Schumacher tenders on the tractor and generator lately. Got them from Tractor Supply. Seem to work fine but have always been a little suspect of them.

Schumacher has been around for a long time, but not sure of their quality anymore.......

Tractor has a 1.5A tender. Good sized battery as a 26R.

Generator has a smaller motorcycle-type battery. Got a smaller 0.8 A tender for it, but have been reluctant to leave it on very long in fear it might fry the battery.

 

[RCW]

I did throw a volt meter on it when running and I had 14.3V at 1200 rpm. I don’t have a battery charger, just the battery tender. Didn’t think to check the belt. Will do that after dinner.

Your alternator or dynamo are definitely charging when running, so that's not the issue.

 

[pigdoc]

I have the distinct impression that starter voltage is a critical issue on all Kubotas. The batteries in both my tractors are a few years old, and gradually lose their charge between use. I'm in the habit of planning for 3-4 hours of battery charge time before I want to use either of them.

Your old Dodge, bowtie, or Farmall will crank over slowly with a partially drained battery, but my Kubotas just go "click" if I keep pulling the trigger! [In the words of Jesus Quintana...]

-Paul

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Generally speaking battery 'tenders' or 'maintainers' will NOT damage a battery. They usually have a 4 or 5 step process in 'maintaining ' the battery , the final phase is to disconnect,pause, read the battery voltage, if within 'limits', stay disconnected( not charging) then 'sleep' for awhile, then repeat this set of operations.
As well they are 'trickle' chargers, most are less than 2 amps, so it'd take days before they might overcharge a battery depending on battery size(AH), condition and temperature. Say you pulled 50Ah out of the battery, it's take 25 HOURS to simply recharge it back to it's previous state.
All batteries HATE the cold, 'lose' 50% or more of their charge,nature of the beast. Now on top of cold, add in less than perfect battery cables and you have a problem.Not enough AMPS to spin the starter, so increase voltage drop( poor cables) create IIR losses( MORE lost volts, starter can't spin as fast, MOR current drawn and you'll get the dreaded click,click,click....that is why it is mission critical to have near perfect battery cables.
It amazes me guys will toss in new batteries($150), new starters($500), solenoids and switches ($100) yet don't replace those old, worn out OEM battery cables for $100.