Calling all graders, water flow experts

[aaluck]

Been in my house for about 2 years now and finally got around to cleaning up the culverts and drains. So, the drain you see in photos 1 and 2 was 80-90% clogged. Obviously, this was causing the area you see in photos 3, 4 and 5 to wash over the road. Photo 3 was the way it was when purchased photos 4 and 5 are what I have done--for better or worse. Very difficult to mow this area so went with rock to the driveway.

So my problem now is it has become apparent the reason the drain was clogged is because it was graded flat. So I hacked it up with my bucket and my one row plow and now I have flow but its about 30 feet long to get flow downhill.

Any suggestions on how to make this area look better and get a grade? I could leave it like it is and let grass fill in but I'd rather have it look better.

 

[Motion]

Even with pictures it's difficult to get the whole picture. I'd suggest shooting some elevations and putting them on a scaled drawing to determine where the water is coming from(and how much) and where you want it to go. The get an excavator with a clean bucket and create wide swales. Your place looks nice. Per you new ditch #4, I'd suggest that the swales you need, don't need to go in a straight line but rather curve /meander to where you need to go, later you might create a small pond in the low end. If you're planning on embellishing your property it might be worth it to have a surveyor plot out the entire property to scale which would start with your legal description, all permanent structures, roadways, fences large trees orchards, utilities, elevations, etc. Just my.02

 

[RCW]

Will these new culverts run a regular basis, or just with heavy rain? You did a nice job on the upper side of the driveway.

My first thought was to widen your outlet ditch toward the road to make a more of a swale. If wide enough, will blend in pretty well, I think.

Just make the invert/bottom grade a little lower to leave room for topsoil and seed.

 

[airbiscuit]

I agree with RCW. Just broaden that ditch to be about an 8' wide depression (swale), maybe even a bit deeper than it is now. You can even give it a little curve for aesthetics. Seed it and mow it and it will look great and soak in and drain water.

 

[RCW]

I agree with RCW. Just broaden that ditch to be about an 8' wide depression (swale), maybe even a bit deeper than it is now. You can even give it a little curve for aesthetics. Seed it and mow it and it will look great and soak in and drain water.

aaluck - - - your "newditch4" picture, there's some grade angling away from the road?

Is that another swale for drainage?

Is it flowing right to left in the picture? If so, I'd angle my swale toward the lower side of that drainage feature....

It doesn't necessarily have to reach it, although it would be good....just a first thought.

 

[NCL4701]

Honestly, I can’t say much specific from pictures. As others have stated, use of swales v more severe ditches is preferable if possible. The previous suggestion to avoid perfectly straight lines in the swales where possible is also a good point. Not only is that generally more pleasing aesthetically, it also tends to slow flow to reduce erosion potential.

I do know some people can look at a plot of ground, imagine water running over it, and quickly devise a good drainage plan. If I was standing in your yard there’s about a 95% chance I could do that in about 10 minutes after walking the property. Apparently, some struggle with that. I can’t even start from photos although some may be able to. Sorry I’m no help with that and it’s a long way from here to Alabama.

That leads to a couple of suggestions. 1) If you almost have it figured out, but not quite, it can sometimes be helpful to go out there in a hard rain and just watch where the water is flowing to get an understanding of where it’s at now, what’s working, what isn’t, and possibly get an idea of how to tie it all together into a complete solution. 2) If you know someone or know of someone in your area who is good at this sort of thing, even if you pay them something, consider having them come out for a consultation to help you devise a plan for water management. Having a surveyor work up a grade plot might help, but I suspect you’d get more practical help from a grading contractor or landscaper who does grading work assisting in devising a grade plan. Most likely they could just look at it, talk to you a bit, and you’d have a solid plan in 30 minutes or so. Might be a couple hundred bucks well spent and easy money for them. Just a couple of suggestions to consider.

Your work in the photos indicates you have the skills to execute a plan if you can get a clear quality plan together.

 

[airbiscuit]

You have a good start. Standing out there in a heavy rain and observing what the water is doing is a good suggestion.

 

[RCW]

There’s If I was standing in your yard there’s about a 95% chance I could do that in about 10 minutes after walking the property.

. 1) If you almost have it figured out, but not quite, it can sometimes be helpful to go out there in a hard rain and just watch where the water is flowing to get an understanding of where it’s at now, what’s working, what isn’t, and possibly get an idea of how to tie it all together into a complete solution

Your work in the photos indicates you have the skills to execute a plan if you can get a clear quality plan together.

There’s some good advice right there.

Each time I re-do/re-grade my driveway, I go out in heavy rains to check water flow.

As NCL4701 said, I’m pretty good at eyeballing grade, but there’s no substitute for seeing the water run.

A half or quarter-inch difference is all it takes….

I used to lose a lot of my driveway apron often. After 30 years, I’ve controlled most of the sheeting downhill.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

swayles need to be broad and shallow, so you can mow them without 'scalping' the sod.
as others have said ,get out there in a storm and SEE what's happening (unlike the idiots next door that don't and have lost 20-25 tandem loads of topsoil this summer.....)

 

[aaluck]

aaluck - - - your "newditch4" picture, there's some grade angling away from the road?

This is the flow of water. Basically this drain/ditch handles all of the water in the front yard and the roof... so its a lot.

The water runs toward the camera in newditch3 and toward the cart in newditch4.

ND 1 and 2 are what I dug to get the pipe unclogged. I think I am good 'above' the driveway there doesn't seem to be any runoff across the drive now that I have unclogged the pipe and redone the swale.

So based upon everything I will hope for a good rain and see what we have. I will also start widening the freshly dug area as suggested.

 

[mikester]

Use smooth wall plastic culvert pipe. Corrugated pipe on Low slopes are a dirt catcher.

Hire a trim dozer operator with a good laser setup for re-grading your landscape.

Water flows down hill. Flat don't drain well. Low spots hold water. Now you are a drainage expert too!