I have a BX25 with industrial tires. My driveway is a sheet of ice. I want to get tire chains. I have a few questions: should I get both front and rear or just rear, 2 link or 4, regular or v-bar, where is a good place to buy them? thank you
BX25 tire chains
- Thread starter deerhunter01
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BAP
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Check out www.tirechains.com . They are right there in PA. You want the 2 link spacing and maybe the owns that are diamond like pattern.
While the chains won't "disappear" between the lugs quite as bad on the industrials as they do on agricultural lug tires, the V-Bar style are taller, not to mention they have WAY more bite on the ice.
2-link are far better than 4-link
I've never used the diamond patterned chains, as any I've seen are far beyond my meager means.
For the most traction for your buck, the 2-link V-Bar will offer the most.
Now if you are one those types that worry about scratches on the driveway, stay away from the V-bar.
2-link are far better than 4-link
I've never used the diamond patterned chains, as any I've seen are far beyond my meager means.
For the most traction for your buck, the 2-link V-Bar will offer the most.
Now if you are one those types that worry about scratches on the driveway, stay away from the V-bar.
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I got them from that place. Only problem is the cross chains for the front are a little long. They tend to tear up the rubber tie rod end seals for the front wheels. I found that not using them on the front was not much different than with none there. Mine are 11", hook point to hook point. 10" would be better. Rear work great.
There is the time that you will want chains on all 4. But, that probably will be rare. My experience in Wisconsin where there are some very steep driveways is that when very icy even on all 4, I could not make it up the grade with no blade down or bucket down (I'm speaking of a heavier tractor than BX for that). However, most of the time I get by with chains on rear only for BX and the heavier blue tractors. If I find a situation where leaving them off the front is not good, I will get out the bolt cutter and do a shortening of cross chains for the BX. That hardened steel does not cut easily. Might require the metal cut off saw. If treads are worn, front chains there are needed for me.
Kubota_Man
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Equipment
BX24, Rear blade, Front blade, Snowblower, 54" MMM, Box scraper, Landscape rake
Unless there was a change in design between the BX24 and the BX25. I was told by 3 different dealers NOT to put chains on my BX24 with the additional framing for the BH there is not enough clearance to safely add chains. Also adding chains could void any warranty that may be left. I would check with your dealer to verify you can add them. A simple phone call may save you a ton of aggravation later.
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
I would be concerned with having chains on the front axle. I am thinking too much traction on the much smaller axles of the compact tractors could be a bad thing. No problem with chains on the beefy rear axles.
Am I the only one that feels you could tear up the front drive train with too much grip/traction ?
Am I the only one that feels you could tear up the front drive train with too much grip/traction ?
Just an FYI. I've been tardy getting the chains on my BX-2670. It came with the R-4's. I got 2 link, twisted chains. I was hoping the chains wouldn't fall between the lugs like they do on ags, and if so, the shorter height of the lug wouldn't "hide" them totally.
I was wrong. Most of the cross chains wound up between the lugs, and aren't doing much. I'm either going to have to tie the cross links together, or invest in V-bar chains.
The standard twisted link will help, just not as much as I'd like.
Your mileage may differ.
I was wrong. Most of the cross chains wound up between the lugs, and aren't doing much. I'm either going to have to tie the cross links together, or invest in V-bar chains.
The standard twisted link will help, just not as much as I'd like.
Your mileage may differ.
Dan_R_42
Member
Equipment
B7100-D, w/ Sims Cab, B219 FEL, ARPS 70 Backhoe, Oversized R4 Tires, LX2610 Cab
I always prefer a visual. - differences in chain types:
The one on the left wins every time hands down... Duo-Grip chain on R4 tire
The chain in the middle is an example of a 4 link, ladder chain on an AG tire.
The chain on the right is a 2 link, ladder chain on an R4 tire
Although, if it we me, with the chain on the left, I would have either cut off the extra chain or tie wrapped to the side of the chain on the sidewalls.
thirdroc, I'm thinking you would be better with them cross linked. V-Bar will get you a higher profile, but may still be dropping into the valleys more than you will like.
The one on the left wins every time hands down... Duo-Grip chain on R4 tire
The chain in the middle is an example of a 4 link, ladder chain on an AG tire.
The chain on the right is a 2 link, ladder chain on an R4 tire
Although, if it we me, with the chain on the left, I would have either cut off the extra chain or tie wrapped to the side of the chain on the sidewalls.
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