BX23S new owner questions

[muddy]

Hello,

I recently got a new BX23S. I'm a first time tractor owner and I love the thing. It's been great for clearing out blackberry forest, among many other things.

I came here to ask two questions:

- The transmission squeals a bit, especially after a cold start. When it's thoroughly warmed up, this disappears. Should I worry about this - does it means it's low on hydro oil or is it typical?
- I got it stuck pretty good a couple times and I noticed that the engine will not slow down to the point of shutting off when it can't move the wheels at all. Same when the implements don't have enough power to lift something. Should it? I don't have other tractor experience and my experience with cars/trucks is limited to manual transmissions where this would mean your clutch is shot.

Thank you!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

With tractor on level ground, pull the hydro dipstick( yelow, back right are). may be hard to see..new oil is clear.... Check with the manual for type of oil in case it's low..
'new' ? brand spanking new from dealer or just new to you ?how many hours ?
best check the front axle ( yel plug, left top side od axle) odds are real good it will be low... 'delaers seem to miss that ......
buy a new grease gun and a 6 pack of grease, toss in 'Kubota only' section of a shelf. be sure all Zerks are clean(no paint) and fire several shots in until grease comes out 'all around' the joint, then cycle the joint several times, squirt another shot in, then clenup a bit.

engine should NOT stall/die unless you really,really overwork the tractor. I find 2500RPM is good for most operations, close to PTO revs for goin down the road. Always turn key on,gloplug heat for 3 steamboats, always strts fine. do this year round.

 

[85Hokie]

There are two different "distinct sounds of squealing"

One sound is when you are moving .... like in high gear maybe up a slight hill, that squeal is normal, that is the HST oil being pushed through the system. That can be somewhat solved with a good hydraulic oil change at 200 hours...

Move around with the RPMS up and in low gear - does the squeal almost go away?

the second sound is WHEN the hydraulics are overloaded - the hydraulic bypass kicks in and make a real nasty squeal.

The fact that the engine is not cutting out is because the hydraulic oil that drives everything is being by bypassed when the load is too great.

Next time you get stuck - use the bucket and curl it down and out or out and back to help move the tractor backwards or forwards. OR use the backhoe to do basically the same.

YOU should never be too stuck with the FEL and BH

 

[SteveBX23]

Hello,

I recently got a new BX23S. I'm a first time tractor owner and I love the thing. It's been great for clearing out blackberry forest, among many other things.

I came here to ask two questions:

- The transmission squeals a bit, especially after a cold start. When it's thoroughly warmed up, this disappears. Should I worry about this - does it means it's low on hydro oil or is it typical?
- I got it stuck pretty good a couple times and I noticed that the engine will not slow down to the point of shutting off when it can't move the wheels at all. Same when the implements don't have enough power to lift something. Should it? I don't have other tractor experience and my experience with cars/trucks is limited to manual transmissions where this would mean your clutch is shot.

Thank you!

Good luck with tractor! Love mine

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: YOU should never be too stuck with the FEL and BH

yeah ,heard THAT before, maybe 45 year ago. guy said it was impossible to get a TLB stuck....
couple hours later I used my CJ-5 to extracate him from the hole he'd dug himself into....

BTW have almost 700hrs in 3 years on mine...GREAT machine..one day I might take the BH off and unbox the 3PH for it.....

 

[leveraddict]

Muddy you should let your tractor warm up a bit before putting it to work. Once the hydraulic oil warms and flows easier the whine becomes less. Kubota warns not to work the tractors hydraulics cold.

 

[muddy]

With tractor on level ground, pull the hydro dipstick( yelow, back right are). may be hard to see..new oil is clear.... Check with the manual for type of oil in case it's low..
'new' ? brand spanking new from dealer or just new to you ?how many hours ?
best check the front axle ( yel plug, left top side od axle) odds are real good it will be low... 'delaers seem to miss that ......
buy a new grease gun and a 6 pack of grease, toss in 'Kubota only' section of a shelf. be sure all Zerks are clean(no paint) and fire several shots in until grease comes out 'all around' the joint, then cycle the joint several times, squirt another shot in, then clenup a bit.

engine should NOT stall/die unless you really,really overwork the tractor. I find 2500RPM is good for most operations, close to PTO revs for goin down the road. Always turn key on,gloplug heat for 3 steamboats, always strts fine. do this year round.

Thank you. Good advice and I'll check the hydro oil today. Yes, was brand spanking new and my dealer was generous with the grease. It was everywhere, but I guess some extra grease on the "nipples" is better than clay and makes it easy to wipe them off next time and add more.

 

[muddy]

Muddy you should let your tractor warm up a bit before putting it to work. Once the hydraulic oil warms and flows easier the whine becomes less. Kubota warns not to work the tractors hydraulics cold.

I promise, I'll try to do better. I'm not the most patient person.

 

[muddy]

There are two different "distinct sounds of squealing"

One sound is when you are moving .... like in high gear maybe up a slight hill, that squeal is normal, that is the HST oil being pushed through the system. That can be somewhat solved with a good hydraulic oil change at 200 hours...

Move around with the RPMS up and in low gear - does the squeal almost go away?

the second sound is WHEN the hydraulics are overloaded - the hydraulic bypass kicks in and make a real nasty squeal.

The fact that the engine is not cutting out is because the hydraulic oil that drives everything is being by bypassed when the load is too great.

I've probably heard both then. Usually the first, but maybe the second scenario the few times I asked for more than it could give.

Next time you get stuck - use the bucket and curl it down and out or out and back to help move the tractor backwards or forwards. OR use the backhoe to do basically the same.

YOU should never be too stuck with the FEL and BH

Oh, I've had to do those. Making the butt scoot over sideways with the backhoe helped, but last time I got really deep in the wet clay nothing helped. I got ramps and board under the wheels and it just made a bigger mess. Finally I got out by driving backward while pulling with the backhoe. I don't know what I would have done otherwise.

 

[leveraddict]

I promise, I'll try to do better. I'm not the most patient person.

Same here! Im a little cranky in my older years too! Ive heard guys busted trans filters not waiting for the oil to heat up a bit. That was probably some extreme temps!