My BX2200 starts fine when it's cold, but will not restart if the engine is hot. Any ideas where to start looking for the issue? The main fuse recently blew so I'm assuming there's a dead short somewhere in the system, and perhaps the two issues are related.
BX2200 Can't start when hot
- Thread starter Mark Hennessey
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
need more info....
when 'hot'.....
does the starter crank over ?
is the 'fuel shutoff' open ?
anything else NOT function ?
how 'hot' is hot ?
when 'hot'.....
does the starter crank over ?
is the 'fuel shutoff' open ?
anything else NOT function ?
how 'hot' is hot ?
It will start fine if only running for 5-10 minutes, but if it runs any longer that that it needs to totally cool down before it will start again. The starter (which is new) does not crank at all. The only thing I hear is a muted ticking when I turn the key. I replaced the fuel shut off solenoid a few months ago, so I'm assuming it is functioning properly. If it was cranking but not starting, I might suspect a problem there but that's not the case. Everything else seems to be functioning properly.
Start with the basics. Don't be distracted by the temperature. Make sure the basics are right, first.
Your symptoms are typical of poor connections or a failed battery. Could be something else, too, but start with the basics.
Check the battery cables and connections, both ends. This does not mean "glance at the top of the battery and if there's no obvious corrosion you are good". It means TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. And do not overlook the ground connection to the frame, and the hot connection to the starter. People often make that mistake. "Battery's good, must be something else." Nope, BOTH ends need to be good.
And while you are at it, very carefully inspect the cables. Again, both ends. Corrosion can wick up inside a cable and rot it from the inside out. It's not readily visible from the outside. Look at the exposed end of the cable. Do you see corrosion there? If so, the cable may be bad. One way to find out is to get rough with the cable. Twist it, push it, bend it. If it feels at all "crackly", replace it. "Oh, but if I get rough with it, I might break it!" Good! If it's a good cable you won't bother it. If it's borderline, you want to break it.
If that's all good, get your battery load tested. A battery can show the correct voltage but not be able to support the load of a starting engine. This is especially true when it's hot.
Your symptoms are typical of poor connections or a failed battery. Could be something else, too, but start with the basics.
Check the battery cables and connections, both ends. This does not mean "glance at the top of the battery and if there's no obvious corrosion you are good". It means TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. And do not overlook the ground connection to the frame, and the hot connection to the starter. People often make that mistake. "Battery's good, must be something else." Nope, BOTH ends need to be good.
And while you are at it, very carefully inspect the cables. Again, both ends. Corrosion can wick up inside a cable and rot it from the inside out. It's not readily visible from the outside. Look at the exposed end of the cable. Do you see corrosion there? If so, the cable may be bad. One way to find out is to get rough with the cable. Twist it, push it, bend it. If it feels at all "crackly", replace it. "Oh, but if I get rough with it, I might break it!" Good! If it's a good cable you won't bother it. If it's borderline, you want to break it.
If that's all good, get your battery load tested. A battery can show the correct voltage but not be able to support the load of a starting engine. This is especially true when it's hot.
What happens if you jump the starter with a thick piece of wire? Does it crank and start?
My BX2200 had an intermittent starting issue when I first got it. Over time resistance through the saftey switches built up and there wasn't enough voltage to close the starter solenoid. This seems to be a fairly common issue with older tractors. They even sell a bypass type kit for it. I installed one on mine and have not had the issue since.
Now my issue is that the PTO safety switch sticks sometimes, but moving the handle back and forth works currently.
I agree with the suggestion of checking your battery cables and all the connections. I have also had a positive cable clamp split and cause issues.
My BX2200 had an intermittent starting issue when I first got it. Over time resistance through the saftey switches built up and there wasn't enough voltage to close the starter solenoid. This seems to be a fairly common issue with older tractors. They even sell a bypass type kit for it. I installed one on mine and have not had the issue since.
Now my issue is that the PTO safety switch sticks sometimes, but moving the handle back and forth works currently.
I agree with the suggestion of checking your battery cables and all the connections. I have also had a positive cable clamp split and cause issues.