Buying advice?

Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
Hi all.

I'm tractor shopping. I'm a tractor newbie so I'd appreciate some input to make sure I end up with the right machine for me. Im probably going to go with used. I. also currently have my eye on two machines that are for sale in my area, I'll post up their details later on to see what you guys think.

The machine will be used for light commercial landscaping. This will mean all manner of light material moving over manicured lawns, aerating, light dirt work/lawn installs, brush hogging etc. Fel and 4wd are a must.

My challenge is finding something small enough so that it can be taken over these lawns all day without causing damage, but large enough that it can be productive and versatile enough to perform a variety of other tasks. I'd like the power to run a 5ft brushhog, and have the traction to not get stuck doing it.

So I need high performance in a small package. I've been looking at B's. I like the higher hp, higher 3pt hitch lift, higher fel lift height, 3spd the B has over the bx. My understanding is that the B has two frame sizes.

Questions:
-in my situation would you guys also go with a B?
-given my needs would it make sense to stick with the smaller frame machine, or is the larger machine still small enough to work primarily on grass?
-is there a "do it all" tire, or would I really need to get two sets and swap around depending on the job? Originally I was thinking R4's would work for me, but then I read that even though they look knobby, they actually don't provide too good of traction.
-would filling the tires contribute to turf damage?

And the fun part....the machines I'm currently looking at:

1)
b2920
Fel
700~ hours
R4
$12,500
Basic tractor, not much for options. But I like the small frame and low price

2)
B3030
Fel, backhoe
400~ hours
R4
$15,000
Obviously I'd prefer this one, but I'm really concerned about the bigger size. It just looks "too big". Maybe it's the backhoe giving it this appearance, I don't know. But when I look at it I just can't imagine taking it over people's lawns all day.


Thanks ahead of time for any responses!
 

85Hokie

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You have done your homework!

finding something small enough so that it can be taken over these lawns all day without causing damage, but large enough that it can be productive and versatile enough to perform a variety of other tasks. I'd like the power to run a 5ft brushhog, and have the traction to not get stuck doing it THIS HAS BX WRITTEN ALL OVER IT......RIGHT UP TO THE POINT OF WANTING A 5' HOG!

When you say running over lawns all day......same pathway???? I moved dirt across a softball field one day for about 4 hours, had to hit the same path most of the way - using r4s it matted the grass down, but it did not hurt the grass!!! The next day you could see that grass was still leaning over a bit - but it did not hurt the grass......it stood up in the next 24 hours.

R4 will matt grass a little easier than turfs......but the r4s will work better other places - I do not think you'll want to switch from the R4's - they will be fine on the grass, UNLESS you are in 4wd and then turn hard.

I have operated the 2920 - excellent machine, will do a great job!

The backhoe is really nice when you need it ! AND on those jobs you do not, take it OFF!

Personally - I would go with either, for the extra $2500 you are getting a hoe and a little larger machine (hoe cost about 7k new!!!), if you decide on the 2920 - then you have a great machine and money to buy something else.

Both will leave their respective marks in the grass, but, if careful those marks will just be temporary - the driver will have to be smart enough not to mess up the lawn!!:D AND I am sure you will tell the homeowner that there is little to be done about the temporary marks.
 

Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
I guess I should clarify-

I can tolerate cosmetic matting of the grass. It's actually rutting and/or compacting the soil I need to avoid.and of course damage while turning....but I'm assuming the latter is more of an operator issue than machine issue.

Where am I finding the deals? Well, I guess I'll tell you AFTER I've made my decision! I don't want one of them to be gone.
 

KubotaVet

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1942 9N, B2650/Cab
Jan 16, 2017
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Northern Minnesota
I did landscaping many years ago for a living and I think to answer your question it depends on a few factors.

1) Are you planning of bidding new landscape jobs and doing the foundation plantings, grading and seeding/sodding work? Or are you mainly going to be landscaping in existing yards or redoing old landscaping?

2) What kind of soils will you be working on and how easily does it compact? Also how fussy will your customers be?

Where I live we have heavy clay soils. Pretty much any time you take a tractor with a FEL full of material over an area several times you'll start to compact the soil. With most yards your limited to using the same paths to get into the back yard. In that case we would put down some heavy plywood over these paths so we didn't compact the soil and create ruts.

Also we always used turf tires on our tractors. It is the best option to limit damage on lawns, especially when turning with a load of material in the FEL. But that doesn't mean it didn't do any damage, depending on the material you can still cause damage. You always want to come as straight as you can into the area you are dumping and gradually turn your wheel and avoid making sharp turns.
 

Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
No this will not be used much or at all for large scale landscape construction. I have a skid loader I use in those circumstances.

Primary use will be maintenance in residential yards.

Think....using the fel for moving bark mulch, digging a hole to plant a tree, or aerating the lawns.

The next most common use would be brush hogging.

And occasionally will be used for patio or walkway construction.
 

KubotaVet

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1942 9N, B2650/Cab
Jan 16, 2017
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No this will not be used much or at all for large scale landscape construction. I have a skid loader I use in those circumstances.

Primary use will be maintenance in residential yards.

Think....using the fel for moving bark mulch, digging a hole to plant a tree, or aerating the lawns.

The next most common use would be brush hogging.

And occasionally will be used for patio or walkway construction.
Ok, I understand what you're looking for now. But I'm not sure which one to recommend. I'd say the B3030 would be fantastic for using the brush hog and the backhoe would make planting those B&B trees a breeze. But it might be a little too big. I wonder if you wouldn't be better off with the B2920 and looking around for a used backhoe to put on when you need it?
 

Juiced06GTO

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2016 B2601
Nov 26, 2014
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I just purchased a new B2601 w loader and bh no worries on me taking one! I think if you drop the BH off the 3030 it will appear much closer in size to the 2920. I'd go w it strictly because you are only paying 3k more for a 7k attachment plus the machine is more capable w less hrs!
 

Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
Ok, I understand what you're looking for now. But I'm not sure which one to recommend. I'd say the B3030 would be fantastic for using the brush hog and the backhoe would make planting those B&B trees a breeze. But it might be a little too big. I wonder if you wouldn't be better off with the B2920 and looking around for a used backhoe to put on when you need it?
So I'm just going to think out loud now in response to this.

I feel like the 2920 is more appropriate to my intended application. The 3030 is a real good deal though, and that's probably what's keeping me from going with the smaller one.

I think I need to head to the dealer and see a large and small frame B side by side with no backhoe. And get the weights of each. That way I can determine if the big one is really as much bigger as it appears to be, or if my perception is just being thrown off by the sight of the backhoe.
 

WFM

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If I lived in taxachuttes....I'd drive over the boarder to 'live free and die' tax free New Hampster....save thousands $$
 

Greenhead

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Missouribound

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Primary use will be maintenance in residential yards.
You want turf tires for any work done on lawns. You will tear up the yards with anything else especially if you need to use 4wd. If you work in mud then it's not such a big deal. But without the turfs you will need to plan on repairing the yards when you are done. And if you find you need other tires you can buy a new set with rims and switch them out.
 

Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/6/5862-kubota-b2920.html

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/8/6/1863-kubota-b3030.html

They look close. I concur with pervious posts that the backhoe tractor is a better deal, more power (HP & hydraulic), although it's about 500lbs. heavier.



The 7K backhoe is the cincher for me. If you decide to go with the backhoe tractor be sure it comes with the 3-point arms.


Thanks for that. Unfortunately it kind of pints me to the smaller tractor. 1500lbs without the fel is getting towards the top weight I'd feel comfortable with.

I'm curious if I went with the smaller tractor would I be able to add a backhoe down the road? Or would I need to add rear hydro's or something.

And now that you got me thinking......maybe I should buy both, keep the smaller tractor and the backhoe, and sell the bigger machine for what I paid for it?

Pipe dream.....but fun to think about.

What are the 3pt arms for the backhoe? Does that mean it's frame mounted like everyone here says is a requirement?
 
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Landscraper83

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Jan 22, 2017
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Massachusetts
You want turf tires for any work done on lawns. You will tear up the yards with anything else especially if you need to use 4wd. If you work in mud then it's not such a big deal. But without the turfs you will need to plan on repairing the yards when you are done. And if you find you need other tires you can buy a new set with rims and switch them out.
Yeah I can't be having to repair turf afterward. It's one thing to repair turf after a $15k patio job, but another after a $500 bark mulch job.

Do people finish mow with these B's and a mmm?
 
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KubotaVet

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1942 9N, B2650/Cab
Jan 16, 2017
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I mow with my B7800 (30hp) with a 3-pt finish mower and I plan to do the same with my new B2650 cab unit. Most of the time I didn't leave any depressions in the ground but if it's wet I do, the trick for me is not to mow in the same pattern everytime, if I do I'll to notice compaction.

Edit: I'd always check to see if the yard I was going onto has irrigation before using a B tractor. You might have to have them shut it off for a few days before going on the lawn in that case.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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Greenhead

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[What are the 3pt arms for the backhoe? Does that mean it's frame mounted like everyone here says is a requirement?[/QUOTE]

Yes it is frame mounted.
When the BH is on the tractor the 3pt arms and top link are removed.
Like I said, if you get that tractor make sure the arms and top link come with it.:)
 

ao9488

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Oct 27, 2016
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I mow with my b2650, 60" mmm, w/o the FEL but with filled R4s. When the yard is dry it mows like anything else imo, but when wet its definitely noticeable in the soft spots. The grass being cut is my primary concern, so the tire marks when wet just blend in with the holes the dog digs trying to get moles. I have a steep hill that is a large portion of my yard and is the reason I bought the b2650 in the first place. Goes up and down like a dream, unlike my zero turn.