Buying a Kubota tractor and building a Camp

fried1765

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
6,720
4,247
113
Eastham, Ma
The place that sold it to me only sold two grades.
Cargo ready and one trip. Mine is a cargo ready.
The side of the container you cannot see in the photo has some good sized dents.
From inside to outside, so at some point in it's history, it had internal cargo shifting.
There are no holes in the steel, and the double layer plywood floor is solid and no flaws.
There are several steel welded patches. The rubber door seals are intact and flexible.
It works well for implement storage, and I will likely park one ATV inside for the duration of conventional firearms deer season, and both of the muzzleloader seasons.

I did weld a very tall old steel flag pole pipe to one corner of the container. I will string a 100 foot long outdoor rated 10 gauge wire extension cord from a repurposed telephone/power pole near the corner of the cabin, overhead to the repurposed flag pole. That way, heavy equipment, loaded 10 wheel dump trucks, and loaded log trucks will be able to get underneath the overhead wire, and I will have 20 amps of 120 volt power inside the container for anything I want.
(electric tools, lights, battery tender etc.)
I likely will not complete that task until next year

It will however at some point need some painting, but being constructed from CORTEN steel,
any surface rust will act as a protective coating. CORTEN steel is the same stuff you see on unpainted
steel beams used in modern interstate bridge construction. The rust becomes the "paint."

The container was right around $2k.
The delivery to my location from Philadelphia, PA/Trenton, NJ was slightly less than $2k.
All in, $3900 and change with a one year satisfaction guarantee.

Round trip from the yard to my location and the return trip back to Philly/Trenton is 400 miles.
The delivery charge is directly related to the two way distance from the yard.
They hauled it with a big late model Ford F350 diesel 4x4 pickup, and a fancy hydraulic trailer.
The only thing about my container I do not like is the door hinges are stiff as hell.
I have soaked them with PB Blaster, Kroil, and ATF. They are still stiff.
I am going to mix up a batch of Ed's Red (50% ATF/50% Acetone) and try that and see if it penetrates into the hinge pins. If not, some oxy-acetylene heat should do it.

I did do a security modification, I bought several feet of PEWAG chain with a square cross section wire
1/2" x 1/2" (square, not round) and huge case hardened links and cut it into two sections one foot long.
I cut small rectangular holes in each door, and stuck one end link of each piece of chain thru the hole in each door, and then skewered the end link inside the door with a five foot section of big rebar, and then welded the rebar inside each door in six places. I'm using three Italian VIRO keyed container locks.
You use one VIRO lock on each of the standard equipment container cammed locking bars on the right hand door, and the third VIRO lock connects the two pieces of PEWAG chain at the split between the two doors. The locks are NOT keyed alike, so I marked each lock with one, two, and three centerpunch divots,
and each matching key with the appropriate number of centerpunch divots. I sealed up the holes where the chain penetrates each door with plumbers putty to keep the yellow jackets out.



Nobody will be able to drag the container away, it's 10,000 pounds.
Plus the weight of anything I load into the container.
You will not get in that container using brute force or bolt cutters.
Oxy-acetylene torches and/or cordless grinder/cutoff wheel will however get somebody inside.
But they will need a lot of welding gas or many cordless tool batteries.
That PEWAG chain is crazy tough stuff. They use it for traction chains on the world's largest wheeled logging and mining equipment. The VIRO container locks are also tough as hell.
The place that sold it to me only sold two grades.
Cargo ready and one trip. Mine is a cargo ready.
The side of the container you cannot see in the photo has some good sized dents.
From inside to outside, so at some point in it's history, it had internal cargo shifting.
There are no holes in the steel, and the double layer plywood floor is solid and no flaws.
There are several steel welded patches. The rubber door seals are intact and flexible.
It works well for implement storage, and I will likely park one ATV inside for the duration of conventional firearms deer season, and both of the muzzleloader seasons.

I did weld a very tall old steel flag pole pipe to one corner of the container. I will string a 100 foot long outdoor rated 10 gauge wire extension cord from a repurposed telephone/power pole near the corner of the cabin, overhead to the repurposed flag pole. That way, heavy equipment, loaded 10 wheel dump trucks, and loaded log trucks will be able to get underneath the overhead wire, and I will have 20 amps of 120 volt power inside the container for anything I want.
(electric tools, lights, battery tender etc.)
I likely will not complete that task until next year

It will however at some point need some painting, but being constructed from CORTEN steel,
any surface rust will act as a protective coating. CORTEN steel is the same stuff you see on unpainted
steel beams used in modern interstate bridge construction. The rust becomes the "paint."

The container was right around $2k.
The delivery to my location from Philadelphia, PA/Trenton, NJ was slightly less than $2k.
All in, $3900 and change with a one year satisfaction guarantee.

Round trip from the yard to my location and the return trip back to Philly/Trenton is 400 miles.
The delivery charge is directly related to the two way distance from the yard.
They hauled it with a big late model Ford F350 diesel 4x4 pickup, and a fancy hydraulic trailer.
The only thing about my container I do not like is the door hinges are stiff as hell.
I have soaked them with PB Blaster, Kroil, and ATF. They are still stiff.
I am going to mix up a batch of Ed's Red (50% ATF/50% Acetone) and try that and see if it penetrates into the hinge pins. If not, some oxy-acetylene heat should do it.

I did do a security modification, I bought several feet of PEWAG chain with a square cross section wire
1/2" x 1/2" (square, not round) and huge case hardened links and cut it into two sections one foot long.
I cut small rectangular holes in each door, and stuck one end link of each piece of chain thru the hole in each door, and then skewered the end link inside the door with a five foot section of big rebar, and then welded the rebar inside each door in six places. I'm using three Italian VIRO keyed container locks.
You use one VIRO lock on each of the standard equipment container cammed locking bars on the right hand door, and the third VIRO lock connects the two pieces of PEWAG chain at the split between the two doors. The locks are NOT keyed alike, so I marked each lock with one, two, and three centerpunch divots,
and each matching key with the appropriate number of centerpunch divots. I sealed up the holes where the chain penetrates each door with plumbers putty to keep the yellow jackets out.



Nobody will be able to drag the container away, it's 10,000 pounds.
Plus the weight of anything I load into the container.
You will not get in that container using brute force or bolt cutters.
Oxy-acetylene torches and/or cordless grinder/cutoff wheel will however get somebody inside.
But they will need a lot of welding gas or many cordless tool batteries.
That PEWAG chain is crazy tough stuff. They use it for traction chains on the world's largest wheeled logging and mining equipment. The VIRO container locks are also tough as hell.
Weight of STANDARD 40' container is listed as 8,159 lbs.