Brake Adjustment: STUCK

[avc8130]

I was performing the 600-hour service on my L39 and ran into a snag. My brake pedals have too much travel so I tried to adjust them. According to the manual, I am supposed to loosen jam nuts on the turnbuckles and then adjust the turn buckles. The jam nuts loosened up very easily. However, I cannot get either turnbuckle to spin. I have tried a 24" extension pipe on the wrench and neither will budge. I tried 2 days of PB Blaster. Nothing. It just doesn't feel "right". Any suggestions? Could I be missing something?

ac

 

[birddogger]

OK, it's been a couple days for the PB Blaster to work into the threads; are they turning now?

PS,
I always have super results with Kroil. They all take time; it depends on how must rust and crud.

 

[Bulldog]

Yours may be different from mine but with that being said does yours have a jam nut on each end of the adjuster. I thought this to be very odd and easily overlooked.

Birddogger, I agree with you about the kroil. It stinks bad but works good.

 

[avc8130]

OK, it's been a couple days for the PB Blaster to work into the threads; are they turning now?

PS,
I always have super results with Kroil. They all take time; it depends on how must rust and crud.

No luck. I have sprayed and tried daily. The odd part is that the jam nuts spun off very easy.

Am I missing something? The service manual just said to remove the jam nut (1 per linkage) and turn the turnbuckle.

ac

 

[bruceatlam]

If it works like mine, you don't turn the "turnbuckle". It stays stationary --- you turn the rod itself once the jam nuts are loose.

 

[avc8130]

If it works like mine, you don't turn the "turnbuckle". It stays stationary --- you turn the rod itself once the jam nuts are loose.

Oh, so I have to disconnect one side of the rod? This is silly. If it works like a turmbuckle like it looks it would be much easier.

 

[bruceatlam]

No --- I can only speak for my tractor --- it's a B20. I have a turnbuckle on both ends -- one at the pedal end and one on the brake actuating lever itself. Both end have jam nuts on the ends of a threaded rod to lock each end in place. The rod connects both turnbuckles. I loosen the jam nuts on each end and then rotate the rod to effectively shorten or lengthen the rod to adjust the brake pedal free play. Once I have what I want, I tighten the jam nuts to lock it in place.

 

[avc8130]

No --- I can only speak for my tractor --- it's a B20. I have a turnbuckle on both ends -- one at the pedal end and one on the brake actuating lever itself. Both end have jam nuts on the ends of a threaded rod to lock each end in place. The rod connects both turnbuckles. I loosen the jam nuts on each end and then rotate the rod to effectively shorten or lengthen the rod to adjust the brake pedal free play. Once I have what I want, I tighten the jam nuts to lock it in place.

On my L39, there are 2 rods. One for each brake. They run vertical from the dash board down to the brake linkage setup. When a brake is applied, this arm comes "up" and pulls on the brake linkage. The service manual says to release the jam nut on the top side of the turnbuckle and adjust.

Does this sound different than your setup?
ac

 

[bruceatlam]

Well, yes and no. I have a rod for each brake also --- so, like you I have two rods. Mine are under the tractor and are horizontal running from the pedal to the brake actuator. So, while the physical arrangement is different, they should work about the same. I'm probably not the best one to help you since I don't have the same tractor. What I can suggest is that you look at turning the rod rather than the turnbuckle and see if that won't work ---- maybe it won't.

 

[Gordon Jones]

I have a l175 that I just tried to adjust the brakes on. The turnbuckel was bottomed out.
Try to move yours the other way and see if you have the same problem. G

 

[Kytim]

also try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF. it can't hurt to try another rust solvent for a couple of days.