Big Bee Agri 5' Rotary Cutter

[guyvstewart]

I have Big Bee Agri Series Model 5 rotary cutter. Although it still cuts pretty well, it is looking a bit worse for the wear. The picture is how I received it, and I’m thinking about doing a complete overhaul. The one thing I’m having issues with is the deck itself. It is pretty rusted out, and I’m not sure how to go about restoring it. The only welder I have is a wire feed that can handle up to about 1/16 inch on a single pass, or maybe 1/4 inch if I bevel the edges and fill it in. I don’t have any sheet metal working tools, but my thought was to flip it over and tack some plate over the holes and flip it back and weld all the holes up. Then get out my angle grinder and smooth everything down and repaint. As someone on the forum said, 20 yards or 20 miles an hour, it looks good. Anyone got any other ideas other that a new deck, (that's not in the budget).

 

[Daren Todd]

Main issue I see about patching from underneath would be the stump jumper. Judging by the amount of rust on top, it would be hell trying to get the stump jumper off. If you can find solid metal to attach to. I would probably cut the rusted sections out. Cut patches to fit just inside the holes you cut. 45° the edges and weld into place. Then grind the seams flush. Of course, this relies on finding good solid areas to weld back too. You may find that the bottom is worse then the top. plus thats a lot of filling, if you go with your original plan. Cost of wire for your welder could add up pretty quick.

Another option is if you can disassemble the whole thing and the sides are solid. You can pick up a 1/4x4'x8' sheet of metal for around $200 if you go directly to the guy who supplies the metal for the welding shops in town. Less if you take in cardboard templates of exactly what you need, and have them cut the pieces out for you. Then your only paying for what you need. Then it's a bunch of cutting discs for your grinder to cut the old top out. If they charge you for a whole sheet, then take the extra metal left over. No sense giving them something you payed for that they can sell to someone else plus you can use it for another project down the road.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I think Daren has it nailed.
The amount of work to get it to any useable stage may be less to cut it apart and re skin it.
about a few details with your welder, a little 110 volt mig will usually do 1/8" to 3/16" with little trouble.

Your bigger challenge will be getting it apart. That deck is a safety shield more than anything, so shape is really irrelevant.

I have an agri-72 mower. I did not try to get the big disc off, doubt i ever will.

 

[ShaunBlake]

What they said.

You didn't say, and it does matter: is your welder a MIG or a TIG? I don't have either, but have learned a bit about them. What the Junkie and DT said is right on, and requires a stick welder or a TIG. MIGs make beautiful welds, but don't get penetration. With that crappy metal (even cutting off all the rust, you want the old farmer's go-to tool: 6011 sticks) you need deep penetration.

You should be able to pick a good welder -- look on CraigsList in Gainesville and Ocala. And look for the oldest 220v welder you can find. The old ones are superior to the modern ones which use aluminum windings in the low-price welders.

Keep us posted on your project, and be mindful of what Skeets and TJ (and even DT, I think) have said: "without pics, it didn't happen!"

 

[Daren Todd]

You can do the repairs with a 110 mig. Just gotta 45 the edges and leave a slight gap. And make sure it's good and clean. If it's a good mig, then no worry's. If it's a 110 harbor freight special, then stick with the .030 wire and don't waste money on the .035 wire. Welder doesn't generate enough heat for the thicker wire. And go to a welding supplier and get a good quality wire. I used the Radnor brand, which is made by Hobart. Wire was a better quality then the Lincoln wire that you get at the big box store and was $20 cheaper for a 10lb roll

 

[guyvstewart]

You can do the repairs with a 110 mig. Just gotta 45 the edges and leave a slight gap. And make sure it's good and clean. If it's a good mig, then no worry's. If it's a 110 harbor freight special, then stick with the .030 wire and don't waste money on the .035 wire. Welder doesn't generate enough heat for the thicker wire. And go to a welding supplier and get a good quality wire. I used the Radnor brand, which is made by Hobart. Wire was a better quality then the Lincoln wire that you get at the big box store and was $20 cheaper for a 10lb roll

Yeah, I've welded some pretty thick stuff. I have reworked mower blades that needed the back lift remade. Like you said, 45 the edge and fill the gap, grind it down and it looks like new. Been doing that for a lot of years now and never had a blade come apart. I have a stack of blades that can't be reused, and was thinking about cutting them into workable lengths and tacking them to the under side and filling in the top side. A couple of years ago at an auction, I ran across a bunch of .030 wire in 10lb rolls. I probably have enough left to weld the entire top, or at least to fill all the holes.