Bench starting a B7100HST engine

[Chrissy]

I have a long thread about my project here:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18430

Thought I would post this specific question separately. So I removed my engine. I am planning on pulling out the crankshaft to potentially have the pilot bushing hole machined - I think it got hogged out a bit when my clutch exploded. I figured before I start disassembling it, I would give it a bench start. Questions:

1) Should I wire it up using the wiring harness or does anyone know what needs wired to bench start it with a remote starter button? I know diesels don't have an ignition system per say so I am guessing that shutting it off kills the fuel supply. Anyone give me the quick and dirty on wiring up the starter and whatever else might be needed?

2) Being a HST model, will it hurt anything to start the engine without the HST system attached? Do I need to remove the HST pump from the engine? I would rather not...

3) Radiator... I was tempted to just cold start it briefly and shut it off without cooling system attached but I am going to bench test it in the front end frame member which has the bracket for the radiator. Any opinions about whether or not I should attach the radiator for this test fire?

Any other pearls of wisdom?

Thanks,
Chrissy

 

[ShaunBlake]

Chrissy, I'm enjoying your posts and the great pics you include.

1: You only need amperage for the glow plugs and the starter. It might be easiest to hook jumper cables to the block and the glow plug closest to the switch (I think I've seen NIW refer to it as #3). Give it enough time to warm them up, then put the positive on the starter solenoid until it starts.

2: I don't have an HST, so I hope someone will chime in with correct info. I would expect that if you leave the HST mounted, you would need to rig continuous flow of fluid. Hydraulic pumps don't do well with air although some people have told me that it is a fluid.

3: No need to run coolant just to bench test. However, if it's convenient (as you're leaving it on the frame, sure -- it will facilitate long runs should you want to do that. (But I would expect you to be shutting it down long before it even got to operating temp.)

 

[kubotasam]

I think you are confusing the engine mounted hydraulic pump with the HST pump. The hydraulic pump on the side of the engine provides power to run the 3 point hitch not the HST transmission. That being said you should not run the engine with the hydraulic pump dry. A few seconds might be ok, but no longer than that or you will ruin it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Do the jumper cables like Shaun said.

Like kubotasam, the pump behind the injector is the Hydraulic pump not the HST pump, they work in the same system but have different functions.

It's 4 little bolts to pull that pump and it could save you from trashing that pump.

You can run it dry to test, no need to hook it up to water to test, just don't run it for longer than about 30 sec then let it cool down before running it again.

Stopping the motor on that model is just moving the throttle lever past idle.