Back Blade wobbled out hole repair suggestions

[coachgeo]

On my back blade the hole in the lower plate connected to the blade that the pin goes into for setting blade angle is wobbled out. What are ways you folk have repaired this before?

Might be enough to get in there with a welder to add metal then re drill it out. Thinking though maybe adding a drilled out nut or tube orr?? below the plate so there is more meat for this pin to go thru?

Open to suggestions

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Drill it out larger and insert a bushing and weld in place.

 

[Daren Todd]

Coach, I have the exact repair on mine that wolfman suggested. Works great the problem with filling the hole with a welder and redrilling, is that it hardens the metal more. You'll be cussing and swearing pretty good, as well as cooking your drill bit trying to drill the hole back out I've tried that before. Didn't work out too well. bit will also track off to the side towards any softer metal

 

[ipz2222]

Don't think you could get any 2 better suggestions.

 

[coachgeo]

Sounds good to me. Now to install a 220 plug for my welder

 

[ctmike]

I've welded thick washers over the holes.

 

[RIDETOEAT]

If you go to an industrial supply for bolts and nuts type store you can find real nice thick, " like 3/8" thick " parallel ground washers.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I would cut a plate to go underneath,all necessary holes drilled and harden plate a little. Weld plate in such a way it can be ground off and replaced if needed. I could make a stepped bushing to weld on and lessen the wear. Bore out a grade 8 nut and weld it on the bottom.
Drill all holes next oversize and replace pin with bigger one.this would be the longest lasting repair for time spent.

 

[Diydave]

Go to a welding store, and buy a carbon rod, of the right diameter, for the pin you want to use. You can weld up to the carbon rod, then after it's cool, tap the CR out, or break it out...

 

[kubotasam]

Go to a welding store, and buy a carbon rod, of the right diameter, for the pin you want to use. You can weld up to the carbon rod, then after it's cool, tap the CR out, or break it out...

Never heard of using carbon rods. Can you go into a little more detailed explanation?

 

[D2Cat]

The carbon rod plugs the hole. It is not a welding rod.

 

[coachgeo]

Never heard of using carbon rods. Can you go into a little more detailed explanation?

Looks interesting but expensive for one time application

http://www.weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF::::PP91

 

[In Utopia]

The carbon rod plugs the hole. It is not a welding rod.

Copper rod or copper pipe will also work.
Weld will not stick to it.

 

[coachgeo]

Interesting about the copper rod.

Now that I look closer it appears this may have been a king cutter blade. Mine is all black though. The plate with the holes for various angle positions is same shape as pictured and it is has no wobble outs holes. What is different though from the one pictured; the hole the pin goes thru that is fixed to the 3pt structure is not angle iron as shown in the pic below but in the 1/4"? triangular Flat steel plate between the arms. Welded to the triangle on the underside is a 1/2" steel flat bar. Hole is drilled thru plate and bar to provide more depth than just the 1/4" plate. Both plate and bar are wobbled out.

May go with adding Angle iron as one pictured along with either of the above methods. to repair the wobbled out hole below. This should be a stronger set up.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

You could always just go buy new lower pins with shoulders, put them in and tighten them real good and then just weld around the shoulders to fix them permanent. Chances you'll wear the pins out are slim, and you can always grind the welds off if you ever would need to. You're going to have to weld and grind something anyway, why not just the pins.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Copper works well. I use it for backing to fill holes. Mig would work well enough to fill it.

 

[coachgeo]

You could always just go buy new lower pins with shoulders, put them in and tighten them real good and then just weld around the shoulders to fix them permanent. Chances you'll wear the pins out are slim, and you can always grind the welds off if you ever would need to. You're going to have to weld and grind something anyway, why not just the pins.

Not talking about the lower pins your referring too; though those these need some maintenance too. On mine these you refer to do have shoulders but will need to weld them as well. They are not bad.. but little lose. Sorry for the confusion. Probably my lack of using proper terms; of which I'm not familiar with yet

talking about the pin you remove to spin the blade to the angle desired then replace the pin to keep blade at that angle. The hole this pin slides into to maintain the blade angle is the one that is wobbled out.

Now that I think about it.. One pin is a bad design cause it takes a shiat load of forces. Two or three pins would be better...... hmmmm. Course this thing could have lasted 20 years before it begun to wobble out and I could have bought this used blade in it's 30th year for all I know. Got a good deal IMHO... just needs maintenance that my newbie eyes didn't know to look for when I bought it.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I guess it comes down to the tools/materials available to you. And how far you are willing to go to make it work.

We arent finishing concrete, so making it precise isnt the issue. Adding another hole beside the existing one to utilize a less worn out hole would be a simple solution. Or, one on either side,but drilling would need to be perfect. Two pins to secure blade would be better.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Oh, ok. Yeah I have the same blade and it is a little loose too. These blades aren't really meant for heavy grading & solid dirt work. More meant for gravel, snow & loose soil. I just use a little larger diameter pin to tighten things up some with mine.

 

[coachgeo]

I guess it comes down to the tools/materials available to you. And how far you are willing to go to make it work.

We arent finishing concrete, so making it precise isnt the issue...

Very true points. What is at issue though is wear and tear. The more movement allowed where not intended to be the more stress on other components not designed to take those stresses. It still works snow for gravel etc. as it is...... but as mentioned above... this additional movement it is harder on the unit and will cause other issues over time. I'll get her fixed up better eventually.

...Adding another hole beside the existing one to utilize a less worn out hole would be a simple solution. Or, one on either side,but drilling would need to be perfect. Two pins to secure blade would be better

Will probably start with repair of existing hole using a bushing as Wolfman has suggested, maybe angle iron w/hole as one pictured also, along with a new pin and see how that goes. There is no room for replacement hole beside existing one.

Thanks for all the advice. Hope it helps others