B8200 Hydraulics

[Stephen Watts]

Hi All,

I am new here, and new to Kubota, and to tractors! But not new to farming...

I have an issue with my Kubota B8200 Hydraulics....


A little back story, (please feel free to skip the next few paragraphs if you want to get to the main issue)...

I bought a second hand B8200 just over a year ago, for £5000: it came with a trailer, a topper, already had a loader (which was the main bit of kit I was interested in!) and a basic chain harrow... Seemed like a good deal at the time, and it would have been if the tractor was in good working spec, but it wasn't... one of the worst mistakes I have ever made financially. The mechanic I got to look at it when it came back to my place said £3000 max.

The loader was working when I bought it, but very weak,: the guy I bought it off demonstrated that it worked, but i could see it had some power issues,...

Anyway, I sent it off to the garage of the tractor mechanic last year, and as he was a busy guy and I wasn't in a rush he only got it back to me a few months ago... He was fed up with it: the amount of issues he had had with it... He said, the best thing you can do is to find someone as gulible as you and sell it to them... or just use it for a woodchipper....

He explained that the previous owner had cut off the filter for the oil, and was using it without a filter, for god knows how long... He replaced the oil and the filter with new... So... he was hopeful, but nothing...

I felt very disapointed. The main reason for me buying it was to use the loader. ..

When It came back the hydraulics were even worse than when it had gone to the mechanics...

A friend of mine contacted another guy who knew some stuff about hydraulics and he felt confident he could help me out... so last week he came out to see me and he did an assesment and basically said, "you need a new pump".

I ordered the correct part, and he came back and fitted the pump, it was a faf (we found some really helpful advice on here, which is what has led me back here! ) about how to fit it, because it needed bolts removing and all sorts but it was fitted ok, and still nothing... There was plenty of oil in the machine....

And so we thought it must be something else, was it the power coming to the pump from the engine? was it some kind of value stuck open?

And so here I am, still hopeful... that the hydraulics can be sorted and I can at least get some kind of use out of it.... The engine is in fine working order, starts great, sounds great,, the clutch is a little rusty but still ok... just hoping that the loader is not a lost cause...

Thanks for any threads to other articles, or responces to this one! Happy to send photos and more details of what has been done so far and where we are at...

The serial number of the machine is 64994:

B8200DT / B8200D: 4WD with manual gear transmission.,

, the new pump we attached is 67810-76100

Thanks

 

[Stephen Watts]

I ought to add, that I read about the directions of the pumps being an issue, But I am fairly sure thats not this issue: both the pumps (the new and the old say) GPO120L. (L for Left, I assume)

 

[Russell King]

Well the first thing I would do is dump the hydraulic fluid and replace or clean the suction filter.

The fluid has to be drained or it will drain out of this area when you remove the screen filter.

Here is a parts diagram showing the general location through the side of the transmission case.

I don’t remember if you said you replaced the hydraulic fluid already but if you drain it into clean containers you can certainly reuse the fluid if it is new. If not new I would recommend installing new transmission fluid using appropriate fluid (not 80/90 w gear oil).

 

[Russell King]

Then get a 3000 PSI (or whatever metric units you want to use) pressure gauge and a hose and fittings to start checking the pressure in the system when activating a loader cylinder.

Disconnect a loader cylinder hose at the FEL valve and install the gauge in its place.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I ought to add, that I read about the directions of the pumps being an issue, But I am fairly sure thats not this issue: both the pumps (the new and the old say) GPO120L. (L for Left, I assume)

I think your professionals have done you no favors. Get a copy of the ownets manual and read it front to back.

Lets start at ground zero. There is a directional control valve on the hydraulic outlet block where the loader is connected. Make sure it is turned fully clockwise.

Dan

 

[Stephen Watts]

Well the first thing I would do is dump the hydraulic fluid and replace or clean the suction filter.

Fairly sure this was done.

The fluid has to be drained or it will drain out of this area when you remove the screen filter.

Not sure what you mean by this

Here is a parts diagram showing the general location through the side of the transmission case.
View attachment 173726
I don’t remember if you said you replaced the hydraulic fluid already but if you drain it into clean containers you can certainly reuse the fluid if it is new. If not new I would recommend installing new transmission fluid using appropriate fluid (not 80/90 w gear oil).

I think that the fluid was not proper transmission fluid so I will get them to replace that. thanks

 

[Stephen Watts]

I think your professionals have done you no favors. Get a copy of the ownets manual and read it front to back.

Lets start at ground zero. There is a directional control valve on the hydraulic outlet block where the loader is connected. Make sure it is turned fully clockwise.

Dan

View attachment 173733

Yes we found the directional valve - both the little pins snapped off it so it just turns round in circles... No fully one way or another...

 

[Stephen Watts]

Then get a 3000 PSI (or whatever metric units you want to use) pressure gauge and a hose and fittings to start checking the pressure in the system when activating a loader cylinder.

Disconnect a loader cylinder hose at the FEL valve and install the gauge in its place.

Thanks will do this and let you know where we get to.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Yes we found the directional valve - both the little pins snapped off it so it just turns round in circles... No fully one way or another...

The directional valve in and of itself is major. The type of oil is not going to make any difference.

Fixing the directional vakve is easy and all you need is standard roll pins. In the mean time you can eyeball the correct position and confirm flow at the pump outlet port. No more than five minutes work and no gauge needed. Also a good opportunity to pump out the old oil and replace with a UTTO

Dsn