B7100 DT front axle removal?

[Lil Foot]

Am I correct in assuming that I cannot remove the entire front axle assembly without lifting the engine so the pivot pin can clear the oil pan?

My poor little overworked Beastie was nearing the end of my driveway project, using the mighty B219 FEL to move & spread 1" minus cinders when there was an ominous clunk from the front axle. Everything seemed fine, dumped the load, started to backup when the left front wheel locked. Two or four wheel had no effect. It would roll forward but not back, so I skidded it backward on the bucket about 150ft, then gingerly rolled forward into the garage. There she sits.
It seemed to happen as I reversed at a full lock turn, so I suspect the u-joint in the knuckle, rather than an axle shaft or differential problem.
I would rather pull the whole assembly & take it back home where my shop & most of my tools are, but that is not looking likely.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes and no, you can remove the front without pulling the pin, remove the bolts on the side of the motor the whole front and frame drops right out, then you can pull the pin to pull just the axle.

 

[Lil Foot]

I see what you mean, but a quick look shows that at least the hood, engine side covers, radiator support, radiator, FEL pump, pump mount, FEL frame, and backhoe sub frame all have to come off also. Damn. It's probably less work to rebuild it in place. Maybe I'll bring up a rolling floor jack, use it to move the tractor out (and back in) of the garage so I can pressure wash it before tear down. After moving nearly 300 tons of dirt, rock, gravel, various fills, & cinders over the last two years on my driveway project, it's filthy.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yea, I forget when I did mine it didn't have any of that on it.