B7100 clutch issue

[strand]

Good morning

The clutch in my b7100 will not disengage. When you push the pedal nothing happens have been just using it low. I spent sometime reading this forum and a few others to get some information. I decided to split the tractor and have a peek at the condition of clutch etc. I have had the tractor for 20plus years clutch has never been done. Although the clutch was actually in good condition Once split I decided to replace the disc, pressure plate, crank bushing and thrust bearing. I installed all the new stuff reassembled the tractor, tested the pedal and I have exactly the same problem. When you push the pedal down it does not disengage the disc, it almost feels like the thrust bearing is not functioning properly. I ordered factory kubota parts and assumed that the pressure plate was set up and ready to go. I did pull the clutch fork and bearing sleeve, there is some wear on the fork but it is minimal. I regressed this assembly and reinstalled it. I discussions with the dealer they said the pressure plate has "shipping clips" on the fingers that need to be removed. I split the tractor again to check for these clips and honestly I have no idea what they are talking about. I went through removed everything again and reassembled the tractor ... Same issue

I appreciate any suggestions, this really has me puzzled.

Take care

 

[D2Cat]

It sounds like the fork that slides the bearing holder is not engaging to push the throw out bearing forward to release the clutch fingers.

http://kpadweb.kubota.co.jp/kpad2/PartsInfo.do?bookCd=100K0316&funcCd=116&figNo=T36000&dispType=2

 

[strand]

Hey D2

That was my first thought as well. My b7100 is older around 1980. The fork for my thrust bearing is external (behind) the bell housing, there is an access hatch on the bottom. From this access I can see the motion of the sleeve and fork. It is moving back and forth with and without the load of the pressure plate against it.

The link you sent is not available tried from both my iPad and pc.

I am really leaning towards the pressure plate not being adjusted properly, but I thought it would be factory set up. When I put the disc on the put the pressure against it and torque it into place the fingers actually retract into the disc. Before I start righting the fingers are at 30 degree angle pointing to towards the rear. Once it is torque in place the fingers are almost parallel with the disc. I cannot push any of the fingers in manually at this point.

 

[torch]

When I got my newer (1994) B7100, the clutch wasn't disengaging. I found the rod from the pedal was bent:

In the process of straightening and adjusting the rod, I found there is a very narrow range of adjustment between engaged and disengaged. Is there any chance the rod is not long enough as currently adjusted?

Also, in the process of my FEL build, I found that the yoke on the end of the clutch rod (circled) could hit an overly-long mounting bolt (projected in blue):

Perhaps you have a similar issue?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What was the part #'s of the parts you used?

 

[strand]

Wolf man

Pressure plate 66591-13400

I spent sometime on it today, the thrust bearing sleeve has a slot that the fork sits in, it has wear along its lead edge. It's a steel machined part tonight I'm going to do alittle welding/ filling and dress it out to the original profile. The fork also has some wear so I ordered a new one. I resinstalled the pressure plate and disc today with a small bar I was able to release the pressure plate from the disc. I am really thinking that due to the age of the parts involved it's the combination of the little things causing the problem. I would have thought that with all the adjustment in the pedal these small amounts would not matter but when I measured the difference in surfaces (using the bell housing flange) there is not a lot of wiggle room.

Let me know what you find on the part number I googled it and it looks correct

 

[D2Cat]

I've used a wire welder to build up the fingers on the fork.

Just make sure, when you're finished the fingers are dressed smooth so there is nothing to drag on the bearing holder.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That is the right pressure plate.

What about the other part #'s?

 

[strand]

I was able to fill the wear in the slot on the bearing sleeve with some weld it looks good. I also found one of the holes for a pin on the clutch linkage was alittle oblong I drilled it out one pin size larger. The fork should be in on Tuesday with any luck that will solve the problem

The clutch disc part number 66905-13300
The thrust bearing part number 32150-14820
They both look like the correct number

Thanks for all the tips! I will follow up with the outcome.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The only other thing I can think of is if the throw out bearing is not put on in the proper direction.

 

[strand]

Ah interesting point with the bearing. Nice I got it right, but now imm second guessing myself. The bearing can go on either way how do I know which way is right? Any photos I can't seem to find anything on line.

 

[strand]

Sorry typing on blackberry, should have said " I think I got it right " not nice

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ah interesting point with the bearing. I think I got it right, but now I'm second guessing myself. The bearing can go on either way how do I know which way is right? Any photos I can't seem to find anything on line.

A picture would only be half the battle, there are several different versions of the bearing.
With it on the right way the bearing portion would contact the fingers on the throw out bearing.