B7100 Clutch flipped? Unhooked?

[Jangulaallen]

Hi, wondering how screwed I am.

I have a B7100 with a snowblower on it.
When I start it, I just stand to the side and hold clutch down with my foot to start it. ( yes, probably not the smartest thing to do)

I slipped and put too much weight on clutch pedal and it went way down. Bent the limit arm / nut and clutch was straight down, was pointing at ground.

Now clutch will not dis-engage. I can not put it in gear, just grinds.

Hoping there is an easy fix, not that I broke throw out bearing or the fork.

Where do I start looking?

Best regards,

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well, highly unlikely you broke the bearing.
But very likely you broke the fork or the pressure plate fingers.

No matter what you're going top need to split it to fix it.

If you can't do it or find anyone local to do it, throw it on a trailer and bring it on over and I'll do it.
I love working on B7100's!

 

[Jangulaallen]

No matter what you're going top need to split it to fix it.

That is what I was figuring I would have to do. Crap.
I was hoping for an easy fix, like a shear pin in shaft.

Will need to find transmission manual.
Be a "in the spring" fix

Might be time to break down and buy a newer unit or a small skid steer.

I've been looking at those little Chinese stand on skidsteer with snowblower attachment.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The manual is on Kubotabooks.com

 

[Jangulaallen]

Hi, I finally got around to spiting tractor.
Now looks like I need to get into the transmission tunnel.

Straighten the adjustment rod, and the metal stop arm.
The throw out bearing moves as soon you my press down the clutch peddle but seems like it is too close to the tunnel housing.

I backed the stop bolt all the way.
bolted tractor back together.

You can press the clutch peddle down at least 90% of way before you feel any resistance.
The bearing will press against clutch release finger but only about 1/4" of travel release..

It might release the clutch but something is not right.
Don't want to bolt everything back together.

I screwed something up when I slipped off tractor and clutch pedal traveled 180 degree to the ground.

Been looking over the repair manual
How is the fork held to the shaft? It seem like it may have rotated some. or bent

Need to figure out how to get the front wheel drive line off so I can get better look up inside the tunnel.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How / where did you split it?
Can you see the pressure plate / clutch disk / flywheel / throwout bearing?

 

[Jangulaallen]

Figured out by tipping rear end up onto the 3 point could get a better look in tunnel.
pulled the safety tube off drive line.

Everything looked normal, nothing broken.
pulled the fork out, everything looks normal.
There is a slight offset in fork.

Did some playing around.
with fork offset to rear, ( as it was when I removed it)
bearing to tip of shaft was 5.0" with about 0.630 travel.

For compost and giggles, I flipped the fork around. ( although internet says not to, it will not work. Thinking there are different style forks.)

fork Offset toward clutch.
Bearing to tip of shaft 4.950" about 0.050" closer to clutch with about 0.720 of travel.
should in theory translate to moving clutch arms in about an extra 0.125"

I had a lot of free travel in clutch peddle before felt resistance of clutch plate arms. (90% free travel)
guessing should have less free travel now.

Unless it is a very bad idea to flip the fork around, going to bolt everything back together and hope for no Whammies.

 

[Jangulaallen]

How / where did you split it?
Can you see the pressure plate / clutch disk / flywheel / throwout bearing?

I split it by bell housing and motor.
Yes, can see pressure plate, clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing.

They all look good

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Take some pictures of it all.

 

[Jangulaallen]

Take some pictures of it all.

I have it all back together.
The plug on steering column is super corroded.
Not turning over.
Will put a meter on things Monday.

I work in Alaska and fly back Tuesday.