B6000, can anyone help me identify this part?

[nav0239]

I have the pipe connecting to this part broken. It appears to be some hydaulic oil filter? But I can't find or identify the part in the parts manual. Hope somebody can help me identify it?

The first picture is from the service manual, identifying where the part is located: on the right hand side of the tractor, at front of the brake paddle. The second picture is a phote of the part. It shows where I have it broken. I got a log jammed at front of the part while it's moving. I thought it would handle it but ... .

Thanks!

 

[nav0239]

If the pipie and box is thick enough steel, I maybe able to striaghten and weld the crack I guess. If it's thin metal I may have to get the replacement part.

 

[Dave_eng]

I have the pipe connecting to this part broken. It appears to be some hydaulic oil filter? But I can't find or identify the part in the parts manual. Hope somebody can help me identify it?

The first picture is from the service manual, identifying where the part is located: on the right hand side of the tractor, at front of the brake paddle. The second picture is a phote of the part. It shows where I have it broken. I got a log jammed at front of the part while it's moving. I thought it would handle it but ... . View attachment 112734 View attachment 112735

Thanks!

That rectangular item is the hydraulic block. It is made in two halves. If you wanted to power a loader or other, you would remove the outer cover and replace it with one with more outlets.
Since you have a loader the outer half of the block has already been changed.

Contact 007kubotaguy on the form by private message as he scraps older tractors and my have what you need.
Failing that, welding by a professional welder is possible.

Also try contacting TORCH a member with older B parts. Whomever you talk to make certain you tell them you already have a loader as the block part you need is not the basic one.

Dave



Dave

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's going to be a tough part to find to replace it.
Bend it back into place, remove it, then have it welded.
Tig weld is the best.
Second would be torch weld.

 

[Dave_eng]

That rectangular item is the hydraulic block. It is made in two halves. If you wanted to power a loader or other, you would remove the outer cover and replace it with one with more outlets.
Since you have a loader the outer half of the block has already been changed.

Contact 007kubotaguy on the form by private message as he scraps older tractors and my have what you need.
Failing that, welding by a professional welder is possible.

Also try contacting TORCH a member with older B parts. Whomever you talk to make certain you tell them you already have a loader as the block part you need is not the basic one.

View attachment 112750

Dave



Dave

Read thru this forum thread and you will note TORCH makes these blocks.

TORCH

He is in Canada

Dave

 

[ken erickson]

Read thru this forum thread and you will note TORCH makes these blocks.

TORCH

He is in Canada

Dave

Dave,
If not mistaken the half of the block with the welded hard lines is the part damaged. Torch makes the top half with connections when adding a hydraulic circuit.

 

[torch]

That rectangular item is the hydraulic block. It is made in two halves. If you wanted to power a loader or other, you would remove the outer cover and replace it with one with more outlets.
Since you have a loader the outer half of the block has already been changed.

Actually Dave, looking at his photo, that's the original cover. His loader is probably powered off a self-contained system and stand-alone pump, possibly driven off the front of the engine.

You are correct, I do make the replacement cover for the block that permits powering a loader off the tractor's on-board pump. But that's not the part that is broken in this case.

 

[Russell King]

If the block is not being used then it can be cut out of the pipes and those two ends can the be connected together with unions and a short tube length.

Or the ends of the cut tubes could be routed to wherever the hoses are routed to from the block.

There is really no need to replace the block unless you want to keep it fairly original

 

[nav0239]

Thanks everybody! Didn't expect to receive so many replies and so quick. A lot of knowlegeable experts here! Yes, the loader is powered by a separate pump at the front, as torch said. I believe now I have a good understanding. I will straighten it, remove and see what can be done to fix it.

Is it on the low pressure side or high pressure side? I guess I can trace the hydraulic to figure this out. If low pressure, I could just connect it using a piece of hydaulic hose? Or I may tap the block and add a piece of pipe to hook it up.

Thanks a bunch!

 

[Russell King]

It is hooked directly to the pump output and is high pressure

 

[nav0239]

Worked on it over the weekend. There is no way to straighten it on the tractor. Removed it, straightened the bracket. Put it back on and tried to move the short pipe back to the pump location. It broken off, as expected . And it's short by about half an inch to reach the pump connection now.

Trying to find a replacement somewhere. If not I will have to figure a way to re-connect it. The easiest, to me, is somehow to connect a hydraulic hose to the short pipe. The other end can screw into the block. This makes it easier to fit too? Any better ideas/suggestions?

I only got a flex core welder. It may be quite a challenge to weld the pipes properly?

The story: I run over a hornet nest. While I was trying to move away from the angry hornets a log jammed in the tractor... ... Now I think about it, it might be much better off to get a few hornet stings instead .

 

[kubotafreak]

I have one with a few inches of tube on each end if you need it. The oem joint are brazed together.

 

[nav0239]

I have one with a few inches of tube on each end if you need it. The oem joint are brazed together.

Hi kubotafreak, Unless it's complete, it looks like requires some welding anyway. Which does not seem to help in my case? In my case, the pipe appears to thread into the block.

I will see if I can find a complete set first, or find a way to connect the existing one. Thanks a lot for your offer and help anyway!!

 

[nav0239]

It is hooked directly to the pump output and is high pressure

Yes, I figure that out. So it makes the connection a bit tricky. Thanks!

 

[nav0239]

If the block is not being used then it can be cut out of the pipes and those two ends can the be connected together with unions and a short tube length.

Or the ends of the cut tubes could be routed to wherever the hoses are routed to from the block.

There is really no need to replace the block unless you want to keep it fairly original

Thanks for teh suggestion Russell! What union you are talkign about? Will it fit the small pipe? I am still thinking of a way to make the connection. The broken pipe is threaded into the block.

 

[Russell King]

This is a link to the Swagelok tube compression fit union

Unions | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | All Products | Swagelok

Tube fitting union straights, elbows, tees, and crosses in a variety of materials and sizes provide excellent vibration fatigue resistance and tube support.

products.swagelok.com

and Female tube end connectors

Female Connectors | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | All Products | Swagelok

Female connector tube fittings, available in a range of materials, sizes and configurations, deliver a leak-tight seal that is resistant to vibration fatigue.

products.swagelok.com

Swagelok is just one example that makes these fittings, They come in inch and metric tube sizes and about any type of configuration you can think of.

While you call it pipe I imagine it is really tube. I would like to see a closer picture of how it connects to the block if it is really threaded as you say. Tube can’t be threaded (as far as I know).

On my L185 the tube is brazed into the block

 

[nav0239]

This is a link to the Swagelok tube compression fit union

Unions | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | All Products | Swagelok

Tube fitting union straights, elbows, tees, and crosses in a variety of materials and sizes provide excellent vibration fatigue resistance and tube support.

products.swagelok.com

and Female tube end connectors

Female Connectors | Tube Fittings and Adapters | Fittings | All Products | Swagelok

Female connector tube fittings, available in a range of materials, sizes and configurations, deliver a leak-tight seal that is resistant to vibration fatigue.

products.swagelok.com

Swagelok is just one example that makes these fittings, They come in inch and metric tube sizes and about any type of configuration you can think of.

While you call it pipe I imagine it is really tube. I would like to see a closer picture of how it connects to the block if it is really threaded as you say. Tube can’t be threaded (as far as I know).

On my L185 the tube is brazed into the block

Thanks Russell! I will take a look of the unions. I saw over the end of the "tube" inside the block there are threads. I will try to get you a picture. Maybe I will try to remove the broken piece of the tube first when I can get to it.

 

[kubotafreak]

I have used unions before. They must be special ordered cant remember who i got them from but they were metric, and rated over 3k.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I used 1,000s of Swagelok fittings in the 10 years I was at STELCO. probably had 35-40K$ worth of them stocked on the shelves. Never, EVER had one fail, not even the 8KPSI ones.

 

[Lil Foot]

I've probably used 10 times that many over the years, and our on-shelf stock was $140-150K.
(cleanroom, vacuum metal deposition systems, gas distribution systems, hydraulics)
Never had a failure with anything Swagelok.

A few of them have even made it into my personal stash somehow.