B6000 4x4 Restoration

[mustang chip]

Hello, I picked up a B6000 4x4 with a loader and a tiller from Craigslist this winter for under $1k! The tractor was not pretty, and had a major issue. The previous owner was not very responsible, and allowed water to freeze in the radiator (ruined the core), and it also popped a freeze plug in the head. The tractor ran well, but there was a lot of oil in the radiator. So... I decided to pull the engine, and restore the entire machine. I am in the process of reassembly, but ran into a couple of issues in which I could use some advice.

1. I can't find a clutch alignment tool anywhere. Is there a standard tool out there that will work? Any tricks?

2. The manual steering box is leaking fluid around the spline seal. Does the box need to be disassembled to change it? Or can it be done without tearing it down?

3. Any advice on a good source for parts? Used (missing air cleaner), and new (gaskets, bearings and such) My local Kubota dealer is taking a very long time to look up prices for me (going on two weeks!). Also, the place is pricey!

Thanks!

 

[bruceatlam]

See if you can find a generic clutch alignment tool at an auto parts store --- the key would be to find one that fits the pilot bushing snuggly. Then just center the clutch disc inside the pressure plate around that tool. You really don't need one ---- you can "eyeball" it.

You need your own parts manual. See www.tractorsmart.com for the manual and the parts. Once you have the manual, you can look up your own part numbers; enter the part number and you can get the price right then and there.

 

[lreops]

A good source for parts and parts diagrams that many use;

http://www.messicks.com/kubotatractorparts.aspx

Prices usually lower that Kubota dealers, but not always. I always check both sources for best deal.


Ron

 

[284 International]

A good clutch shop can match up your disk's splines and diameter to the pilot bushing if you take them both in. I had to do that with an old Shibaura built Ford; the tech took a matched spline and turned the nose down on his lathe. It worked perfectly.

I wouldn't try eyeballing it, myself. Even on a little B6000, lining up the halves with the clutch components is tough enough as it is.

Take some pictures as you go; I'll be having to do mine here in a short time too, I'm afraid.

 

[Stumpy]

You don't need the alignment tool as long as you can get a wrench or ratchet on the cage bolts with the transmission in place. It makes things go a bit quicker but usually isn't required. The trick is to not torque the pressure plate cage all the way down to the flywheel. Eyeball it center then torque the bolts just tight enough so the clutch disc stays put (doesn't take much) but can still be moved with a little force. Then you can insert the transmission input shaft and wiggle around as needed til your halves are aligned. Then once the halves are on the pins you can torque the cage bolts through the servicing port or through the hole where the steering box sits (on my machine the bottom of the steering box sits down inside the bell housing). Or like I did you can just tighten a few of the bolts so the disc stays put and then separate the halves again for final torquing. I pulled it apart again to apply red loctite and have plenty of room for using the calibrated wrist.

I second Messicks for parts, they'll have anything you need. Though if you need some larger parts shop around as Messicks can be expensive.

At the very least to change that seal you'll need to pull the pitman arm which requires a big puller. The seal is pressed in so if you feel confident you can get it out by pulling go for it. Personally I prefer to push it out with a drift. To do that you need to remove the sector shaft (the one with the splines). I think you should be able to do this just by unbolting the plate on the far side from the spines and pulling it out but that may not work. In such a case take the top of the box off and remove the steering shaft.

 

[mustang chip]

Thanks for the advice! Messick's appears to have everything that I plug into their website. I am surprised that you need to order engine gaskets one by one! No kit?

I don't think I am going for the eyeball method on my clutch though... There is not a lot of room (at least for me) between the transmission and the block to tighten them up after the trans spline is engaged. I am going to try to find a spline that fits the clutch disk, and turn it down for a slip fit in the bearing.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.