B2400 - overheats when mowing after ~20 minutes

[mikebpbx]

I have a B2400 with a 60" deck

It overheats when I'm mowing with it. I mowed this morning and the grass was not really too tall, in low gear, and it gets up to the top of the white line (does not go into the read, bu is all the way up).

It does not overheat if it's just sitting (I ran it the other day with the mower deck PTO on and full throttle for like 25 minutes an no problems)

They key is not "stuck" so the glow plugs are on, so that's not it

Oil level and color is good - no milky oil
Coolant is full
Hydro fluid is good
Fan is spinning
Belt not slipping and water pump is turning
Radiator screen is clear
Blew out radiator finds and even rinsed it with low pressure water

Feels like fluid is moving through the hose when I squeeze it when it's warm

Temp goes right back down if I stop mowing but leave it running

Seems to me it's like it overheats when it's moving and mowing at the same time.

Any ideas on what else I could check?

 

[Dave_eng]

Make certain air can easily flow thru your radiator.
Most models have a screen to catch debris before it clogs rad find. Make certain screen is clean.
Check fan belt tension.
Dave

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How many hours are on the tractor?

 

[jaxs]

I noticed you said "white line" instead of a temperature. That's a common gauge but installing a quality sender and gauge marked with temperature is money well spent.
At minimum take readings from radiator, block and head with laser thermometer. If you confirm temperature is higher than spec, take it to a pro diesel mechanic . It's simply too big of gamble putting it off while looking for reason.

 

[mikebpbx]

248 or so - very low hours. I've put about 10 on it in 3 months or so

How many hours are on the tractor?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Get a laser thermometer gun and measure quite a few different points.
It could be the gauge or the sending unit is bad.

 

[Flintknapper]

I noticed you said "white line" instead of a temperature. That's a common gauge but installing a quality sender and gauge marked with temperature is money well spent.
At minimum take readings from radiator, block and head with laser thermometer. If you confirm temperature is higher than spec, take it to a pro diesel mechanic . It's simply too big of gamble putting it off while looking for reason.

Agree with the above. Considering all you've done to check for reasons....it might well be an inaccurate gauge or sending unit. Shoot the radiator (top and bottom) and the engine with an IR gun.

Add an analog temp gauge so you can monitor coolant temps in real time.

Another thing to consider is that your Thermostat might sticking partially open and when you 'work' the engine....its just enough to 'push it over the edge' coolant wise.

 

[mikebpbx]

New news, I suppose - I was out mowing today after tightening the alternator belt a little (there was a lot of deflection)

As I mowed it was creeping up (temp wise) and then it died. Now, whenever I engage the mid-PTO it tries to turn the belt/blades and dies.

Not like an electronic problem (like the safety circuit is messed up) but like something is jammed.

I looked under and the blades and stuff are clear.

Could something be seized and that is why it was overheating (there was a bearing or something about to shit the bed and it was working really hard)?

 

[Flintknapper]

New news, I suppose - I was out mowing today after tightening the alternator belt a little (there was a lot of deflection)

As I mowed it was creeping up (temp wise) and then it died. Now, whenever I engage the mid-PTO it tries to turn the belt/blades and dies.

Not like an electronic problem (like the safety circuit is messed up) but like something is jammed.

I looked under and the blades and stuff are clear.

Could something be seized and that is why it was overheating (there was a bearing or something

^^^^^^

Well...yes.

Remove the drive belt(s) on the deck and turn each spindle by hand to see if you have something binding. Same thing for any Idler/tensioner pulleys.