Anyone have an idea or device for 3pt anti-flyup???

[aquaforce]

I want to pull a trailer for a hay ride but I don't have a drawbar on my L175. If I had some kind of device to attach to the 3point and keep it from flying up that would meet the immediate need till I can make a drawbar for this tractor. Has anyone made such a device? Does anyone know of something for this or know an idea for me to try?

This is a view of the back of my L175.

TIA

 

[regularjay]

Not sure if you have a Tractor Supply Co. store nearby but I do and they sell drawbars for around $25.00. Way faster and easier than "homebrew" and likely cheaper too. Plus, you wont end up explaining how some jury rigged deviced failed to a liability Judge if the hayride goes south.

 

[aquaforce]

Not sure if you have a Tractor Supply Co. store nearby but I do and they sell drawbars for around $25.00. Way faster and easier than "homebrew" and likely cheaper too. Plus, you wont end up explaining how some jury rigged deviced failed to a liability Judge if the hayride goes south.

I have a drawbar in the 3pt but the fly-up issue with the 3pt arms is what I would like to address fast and dirty.
There are holes in the rear case that are about level with the top of the PTO cover. I have wondered about welding bolts onto some flat stock to fit in the holes then have a long bolt between the flat stock to keep them from backing out and then have something at the top of the flat bar stock to attach to the lift arms but I'm not clear on how to do that yet.

Later I can build a very solid drawbar that will bolt to the bottom of the case but I don't have time right now.

 

[kevindsingleton]

I have a drawbar in the 3pt but the fly-up issue with the 3pt arms is what I would like to address fast and dirty.
There are holes in the rear case that are about level with the top of the PTO cover. I have wondered about welding bolts onto some flat stock to fit in the holes then have a long bolt between the flat stock to keep them from backing out and then have something at the top of the flat bar stock to attach to the lift arms but I'm not clear on how to do that yet.

Later I can build a very solid drawbar that will bolt to the bottom of the case but I don't have time right now.

Put a chain around the lift arms, and down to the pivot. It's done all the time on older tractors.

 

[pat331]

Years ago, a lot of the 8N, 9N, 2N Ford tractors did not have a drawbar, only the 3PT. They used a drawbar like the one in your second picture. There was also some arms or bars that slipped over the ends of the bar that went between the hitch arms and ran up to the top-link where it hooked onto the tractor. This formed a triangle between the hitch arms and the top-link and kept the drawbar from jumping or flying up. These were adjustable with bolt holes that lined up as you lengthened or shortened these bars, depending on how high or low you wanted the drawbar to be. Check with TSC (www.tractorsupply.com). I think they may have what you need called "Drawbar Stay Strap". Good Luck!

 

[Orange Tractors]

Years ago, a lot of the 8N, 9N, 2N Ford tractors did not have a drawbar, only the 3PT. They used a drawbar like the one in your second picture. There was also some arms or bars that slipped over the ends of the bar that went between the hitch arms and ran up to the top-link where it hooked onto the tractor. This formed a triangle between the hitch arms and the top-link and kept the drawbar from jumping or flying up. These were adjustable with bolt holes that lined up as you lengthened or shortened these bars, depending on how high or low you wanted the drawbar to be. Check with TSC (www.tractorsupply.com). I think they may have what you need called "Drawbar Stay Strap". Good Luck!

My dad called those stabilzer bars.

Aquaforce, I suggest you measure the distance between the end of the lower arms and the top link bracket; you wouldn't want to buy something that is too long. L175's are considerably smaller than your average Cat 1 three point tractor.

Once you see one; they are pretty easy to make,you could even paint it to match your tractor.

Robert

 

[GWD]

From your photo of the 3PH drawbar that you want to use - if you put a chain on the drawbar end of the toplink and then around the crossshaft that is just below your PTO then that will stop the top of the drawbar/ball hitch frame from lifting up. If you put a longer pin in the top link then the chain could be attached there. Putting a large washer (or two) on the long pin would better keep the chain in place.

Be careful of engaging the 3PH lift beyond what it takes to tighten the chain!!!

BTW, I'd recommend reversing the top link to have the locking ring on the outside (rearmost) to make it easier to access and lock. It looks like it may not clear the frame of the ball hitch so maybe that is why the lock ring is on the tractor side.

 

[dusty-t]

My two cents, Two pc 1/2 x 2 flat bar drill holes to fit bottom pivot bar and rear pin on top link. Run them from the bottom tph pivot to both sides of the rear of the top link and put in a longer pin or bolt with lock nut. Dusty P.S hope you get it figured out in time. Good luck

 

[aquaforce]

Put a chain around the lift arms, and down to the pivot. It's done all the time on older tractors.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the good info.

 

[aquaforce]

WOW!!!!!!! Thanks guys.


I knew this was not a new road for someone and I just needed to see how others have gone down it. You all have great info and I even got some new ideas that might work easier than I was thinking.


This site helped me a great deal all along and is still exactly what the tractor community needs. I got exactly what I needed and more info to work with on some other things I have been thinking of.

Thanks Thanks Thanks guys.

 

[aquaforce]

I went the chain route. The adjustable bar method sounds good too and I might make some bars for that later. I finished a chain that will run from a clevis on the lift arm down to the pivot shaft. It is almost a straight line and will work well to let me pick up the trailer and keep it where I want it. The rock shaft can also adjust to keep the 3pt from putting to much pressure on the chain if I need.

The paint is still drying so I'll get some pics up when I put it on the tractor. I left a few extra links so the chain can be adjusted to different heights.

Thanks again all.

 

[aquaforce]

BTW, I'd recommend reversing the top link to have the locking ring on the outside (rearmost) to make it easier to access and lock. It looks like it may not clear the frame of the ball hitch so maybe that is why the lock ring is on the tractor side.

Good eye.
Yes the clearance is the issue and why the lock is on the tractor side. I need to modify the upright on that hitch I made. Originally I was using it on a different tractor and when I started to use it on this one I notice that the upright is not positioned far enough back for the stiff arm. I will change that when I get some time. Right now I have just been using it as is. The lock is not hard to get at where it is but it is not the recommended way.

 

[aquaforce]

Put a chain around the lift arms, and down to the pivot. It's done all the time on older tractors.

If you put a longer pin in the top link then the chain could be attached there.

Well I went with the chain idea and thanks to the chain input. I like that I can still use the 3pt from my limit point down and the chain allows for this flexibility.

So here is a pic of the chain. I used a safety hook at the pivot shaft end and two clevi on the lift arm. The large clevis makes the fit well on the lift arm and the small clevis allows the attachment to the chain with the ability to adjust it at different heights.

 

[aquaforce]

Once you see one; they are pretty easy to make,you could even paint it to match your tractor.

Robert

I'm glad you mentioned matching it. I have some paint left over from painting the trans tunnel, engine and rear end of the tractor so I made this chain to match too. I think the bars will be another project for a rigid use also and they will get matched too.

The pics are kind of dark but I tried to show the extra links where I can adjust it to pretty much any limitation I want.

One pic is supposed to show the 3pt all the way down and the chain just lowered and another pic all the way up with the chain tight. It works perfectly.
If you can see enough of these dark pics the chain is almost in a straight line so that nothing is stressed out of it's normal operating movements.

 

[GWD]

That should do the job. Good work.