Anyone ever seen or have a front axle gear case CRACK?

[TnMowing]

I had a leak on the front left portion of the axle.
Right at the knuckle and axle. I assumed it was the pivot seal.
I replaced it, only to find it still leaked?
See here for that - https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...ing-the-knuckle-pivot-seal.53862/#post-493960

I pulled it all back apart only to find the case had a crack in it.
Anyone have any idea why this happened?
I just bought this tractor, and like most used purchases, I’m finding out all the stuff that is wrong with it.

From fuel lines to this. I guess that’s how life goes, but man.
I tell you what, I’m learning how to work on it for sure.

 

[lugbolt]

saw it once many years ago on a new-ish (at the time) grand L, I think L3600 but I don't remember for sure.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

bad casting ?
wrong ingredients in the 'cast iron' ?
some kind of 'shock' when it was assembled ?
tractor was dropped when delivererd ?
PO hit 'something' bad ?

possible repair.... drill holes at both ends of crack, grind inverted V along crack, fill with bronze.

 

[TnMowing]

I don’t know, maybe after 19 years it just decided to “let go“.
I don’t know how to weld, and I wouldn’t want it to break clean off.
A new one is expensive (for me) but that looks like the only way to go?

Unless any of you guys know where to get salvaged parts?

 

[Pau7220]

possible repair.... drill holes at both ends of crack, grind inverted V along crack, fill with bronze.

Same answer as last time except it's on the other end of the machine and it's not a ROPS mount.

GreensvilleJay said:
in the meantime weld would keep you 'up and running'

Bad idea.. no other way to put it. Besides supporting the weight of the tractor and any implements, it's holding that wheel in place when torque is trying to tear it off. It is also a ROPS mount. It appears to be cast iron.... there no way to weld it back to original strength and no way to be sure the crack didn't close back up where it can't be detected. "Up and running" doesn't come without risk.

Last edited: Sep 7, 2021

 

[TnMowing]

Same answer as last time except it's on the other end of the machine and it's not a ROPS mount.

Bad idea.. no other way to put it. Besides supporting the weight of the tractor and any implements, it's holding that wheel in place when torque is trying to tear it off. It is also a ROPS mount. It appears to be cast iron.... there no way to weld it back to original strength and no way to be sure the crack didn't close back up where it can't be detected. "Up and running" doesn't come without risk.

Last edited: Sep 7, 2021

It looks cast to me.
I first Thought maybe water intrusion.
Water got in to the front axle and froze, then busted.
But, it’s cracked at the top. If I remember correctly, water is heavier than oil.
Which makes you think it would have cracked the lower portion?

The tractor does have a FEL.
So far I am having no luck in the aftermarket.

I guess I’ll just do what I have to do, spend the money, and do it right with a new part.

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[DustyRusty]

I guess I’ll just do what I have to do, spend the money, and do it right with a new part.

Thanks for the advice guys.

You need to try the used tractor salvage yards. I found a BX23 in a salvage yard, and it might have the part that you need. The BX23 is identical to the BX2200, from what I remember of my hunting down BX22 parts. The only difference is the loader valve placement... Sent you a private message.

 

[TnMowing]

You need to try the used tractor salvage yards. I found a BX23 in a salvage yard, and it might have the part that you need. The BX23 is identical to the BX2200, from what I remember of my hunting down BX22 parts. The only difference is the loader valve placement... Sent you a private message.

It may be? I know the newer series is an O-ring. Where as the BX2200 uses an RTV to seal the case halves.

I don’t know when they changed?

 

[DustyRusty]

It may be? I know the newer series is an O-ring. Where as the BX2200 uses an RTV to seal the case halves.

I don’t know when they changed?

The best way to know what part fits what tractors, is to use the Messicks parts website, and find the part number. Then go back to the home page, and click on Kubota parts again, and this time, put the part number into the box on the right-hand side of the page and click search. Once the part is found, there is a small line under it that says something like "more information", and that will tell you what other tractors use that same part.

 

[Pau7220]

Im not sure if he has BX parts, but you can also try Lance.
Send a PM to 007kubotaguy to see if he has what you need.

I just bought this tractor, and like most used purchases, I’m finding out all the stuff that is wrong with it.

From fuel lines to this. I guess that’s how life goes, but man.
I tell you what, I’m learning how to work on it for sure.

You'll get there. Mine was held together with bread bag twist ties and bailing twine... and leaking hyd oil out of every pore. No exaggeration! But, I got all done one step at a time, got a great machine, and saved a small fortune.

 

[whitetiger]

t may be? I know the newer series is an O-ring. Where as the BX2200 uses an RTV to seal the case halves.

I don’t know when they changed?

The o-ring seal began with the BX50 series.

 

[GeoHorn]

Out of desperate-cheapness and under a time-frame of arriving guests for a hay-ride…. I welded a cast-iron lift-fork on my 9N Ford. (I’d chained-down the fork to prevent the.hay-trailer from over-riding the tractor on downhill slopes…and foolishly “tested” my chain…. the hydraulic pump quickly over-powered the lift-arms and fractured the lift-fork.).

With folks arriving next day there was no time to find a replacement part so I stick-welded it…fully expecting it to fail. But, much to my surprise, that ugly weld held up to 6 more years of abuse, and the new owner has had no problem with it either.

The trick is to heat the part prior to welding it, and to cool it slowly. I had my propane torch standing by with a flame…. used a wire-wheel to remove paint….heated the part without putting the flame directly on the crack to prevent sooting it ….until the part was (very subjectively) “hot”….(NOT glowing)….. quickly daubed a 7011 rod on the cracked part (didn’t even “notch” it) all along the fracture….. then applied the torch to it again gradually letting it cool back down.

It worked … and never gave further trouble….despite the fact that for 6 years I was using that little 9N with a 72-inch, 800 lb Rhino shredder that it could not hold aloft at idle.

Yes, the hay-ride was a success! (But the brakes on that little 9N were completely overwhelmed on downhill slopes….. so I kept it in 2nd gear and never dared depress the clutch with 10 people in that hay-trailer.)

Don’t do this at home.
I am not a lawyer.
I am not a welder.
YMMV

PS: I would not “notch” it because hot weld applied to a notch will expand the casting and contribute to opening up the crack… and when it cools it will have too much ”purchase” on the case and during cooling-shrinkage it will pull the casting and perhaps crack it again in an adjacent area.. I would only want to add metal on the top…to “bridge across” and to seal the crack. Good luck with this.

 

[TnMowing]

Does anyone know how the bearing - part #70 is held on?
Is it press fit? I definitely can not pull it off by hand

I don’t really need to remove it. I just want to make certain the split collar is still in place?Split collar is #80

If the bearing is press fit, it should be ok.
But if it is slip fit, I’d like to check it.
That split collar holds the axle in the gear case.

 

[whitetiger]

Does anyone know how the bearing - part #70 is held on?
Is it press fit? I definitely can not pull it off by hand

I don’t really need to remove it. I just want to make certain the split collar is still in place?Split collar is #80

If the bearing is press fit, it should be ok.
But if it is slip fit, I’d like to check it.
That split collar holds the axle in the gear case.

View attachment 66760

It is a press fit.

 

[TnMowing]

I figured I’d give an update.
I got the new case and swapped the bearings.

The #’s on my bearing were

Top Bearing #60 - Nachi 6910
Middle Bearing #80 -Nachi 6909
Bottom Shaft Bearing #130 - NTN 6304

I didn’t do a lot of searching, but Messick’s was the cheapest I found.
Hopefully this helps someone some day.
Thanks for all your help, you guys and gals are great.
You have been a big help to me.

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks for the update.

 

[Magicman]

I hate beginnings that don't end.

Thank you Sir for the update/followup.