Adding rear hydraulics on 2003 L3130

[fstrickland]

I have a 2003 L3130 with no loader or rear hydraulics. I am wanting to add rear hydraulics to operate a hydraulic top and side link for a box blade. I have attached 2 pics of the rear hydraulic block under the seat. The only hoses coming off the block is pressure and return for the cylinders on the 3 point lift. I have reached out to Summit, WR Long and Tractor Innovations. All say they have a kit they believe will work but was not sure how to pipe it in on this model. Any insight and advice is greatly appreciated!!

 

[Russell King]

Go to this site and look at the illustrated parts lists

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

There appears to be a few different versions of a “L3130d” so I might be wrong but there appears to be a hydraulic take off block, see picture below. You take the pressure out to your new valve that must have a power beyond sleeve, then from that sleeve you go back to the cover plate tap to supply pressure to the rest of the tractor. You will also have a tank return line from the valve that dumps into a port that goes into the tractor sump.



Then see this thread (post #1) for how replacing the cover will allow tapping into the hydraulic system.

B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)

Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Russell King]

See Post #16 in this thread for a description of how a replacement cover was used on my L185 and a picture of the flow out of the cover and back into the cover along with the tank return line.

Rear remote hydraulic on Kubota L245DT

My L245DT has aftermarket power steering..does not have a front end loader. The power steering cylinder is connected to the control valve below the left side of the seat via an aluminum block. How do I do this? Thanks for any help.

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

I have a 2003 L3130 with no loader or rear hydraulics. I am wanting to add rear hydraulics to operate a hydraulic top and side link for a box blade. I have attached 2 pics of the rear hydraulic block under the seat. The only hoses coming off the block is pressure and return for the cylinders on the 3 point lift. I have reached out to Summit, WR Long and Tractor Innovations. All say they have a kit they believe will work but was not sure how to pipe it in on this model. Any insight and advice is greatly appreciated!! View attachment 171547 View attachment 171548 View attachment 171549

I dont know what the hoses are for but its not the 3pt lift.

EDIT: forget I said that

You need the auxiliary hydraulic outlet block - number 90 in the parts diagram below. Its a discontined Kubota part and not something WR Long or Summit can provide. Its not a hard part to make but you need to get the dimensions off the factory blockoff plate.

 

[fstrickland]

Thank you gentlemen for all of your advice! I have continued to research and digest it all. Hokie I went to my dealer and spoke with a tech (he was gruff but helpful) and he told me the #90 part will do it. I ordered one ($100) and I will see if it is correct. On my way off the lot I looked at some newer Kubotas and they are piped the same way for the loader. Below is a pic of my front hydraulic block.
Once it arrives I will figure out the size of the male fittings for my hose connections. Below is the kit I an considering from Summit. If anyone has a better suggestion, I am open. Thank ya'll again for your advice.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank you gentlemen for all of your advice! I have continued to research and digest it all. Hokie I went to my dealer and spoke with a tech (he was gruff but helpful) and he told me the #90 part will do it. I ordered one ($100) and I will see if it is correct. On my way off the lot I looked at some newer Kubotas and they are piped the same way for the loader. Below is a pic of my front hydraulic block. View attachment 171659
Once it arrives I will figure out the size of the male fittings for my hose connections. Below is the kit I an considering from Summit. If anyone has a better suggestion, I am open. Thank ya'll again for your advice.
View attachment 171660

That kit will work but electric valves are are full on or full off. You cannot vary the flow like you can with manual valves. You may find that makes accurate / smooth control of your top link difficult. Summit does not offer kits with manual valves but its not difficult to roll your own.

EZ-PZ Kubota Tractor Remotes

An affordable easy to install auxiliary valve kit customized to fit L01 and L02 series tractors. No hydraulic expertise required and kit can be installed in about 30 minutes.

windyridgefarm.us

The ports on your outlet block will be female NPT. You will need male NPT to male JIC adapters. Manual valves will use all three ports. The electric valves only use two.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

I would recommend NOT getting the electric valves but getting manual ones instead. Kubota may make a kit that fits the tractor like a factory setup but it would be expensive.

Mounting the valve is the only “difficult” part since you need to fabricate something that holds the valve and bolts to some support, usually the ROPS is used. But now the valve handles are not right where they should be. There are cable control valves available and I believe there are also some cable controls sold separately.

FitRite hydraulics may be able to fabricate the mounting bracket for you but they may only do that if you buy the valve from them. Their top and tilt cylinders are excellent products.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I would recommend NOT getting the electric valves but getting manual ones instead. Kubota may make a kit that fits the tractor like a factory setup but it would be expensive.

Mounting the valve is the only “difficult” part since you need to fabricate something that holds the valve and bolts to some support, usually the ROPS is used. But now the valve handles are not right where they should be. There are cable control valves available and I believe there are also some cable controls sold separately.

FitRite hydraulics may be able to fabricate the mounting bracket for you but they may only do that if you buy the valve from them. Their top and tilt cylinders are excellent products.

Kubota OEM base kit is L8305

https://www.messicks.com/parts/kubota/l8305

Second and third position kitd

Kubota #L8306 2ND LEVER KIT

2ND LEVER KIT

www.messicks.com

https://www.messicks.com/parts/L8307

Valves sold separately

Kubota #L8303 SINGLE SPOOL HYD. VALVE (NO DETENT)

Double Acting Valve (Single Spool Valve - No Detent)

www.messicks.com

Kubota #L8304 SINGLE SPOOL HYD. VALVE W/FLOAT DETENT

SINGLE SPOOL HYD. VALVE W/FLOAT DETENT

www.messicks.com

Grand total for two remotes with spring center valves comes to about $1500. Not a lot more than his Summit kit

Dan

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Something like what is pictured from Fit Rite works very well and the lever positioning is also very ergonomic IMO. No, it is not as aesthetically pleasing as the factory valve set, but the valves are without a doubt, better quality than the OEM units.