Adding an auxiliary hydraulic pump to grey market b6000dt

[colejackson4]

I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able to find, the factory front loader setup was run off of an extra pulley mounted to the front of the crank via three bolts. My crank pulley only has two tapped holes on it. I’m just wondering if anyone knows any part numbers for this extra pulley or has one or any information regarding this subject.

 

[Russell King]

You should read through this thread about a similar situation. I doubt you will be able to find the OEM parts but can adapt these ideas to get you what is needed.

B7100D hydraulics and adding a FEL

Hey guys, just wanted to give an update. I've had the Westendorf TA55 frontloader on there for a while now with no problems! I've got ~25 hrs of heavy front loader work with no issues. I ended up fabricating a pump shaft using the female spline of flange 66704-88530 to 3/4" keyway stock and a...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just recently bought a b6000 tractor that gives all the signs of being a great market machine. I bought it with the idea of building a small front loader and backhoe combo to go on it. The thing that I’m getting hung up on right now is how to mount an extra pump to it. By what I’ve been able to find, the factory front loader setup was run off of an extra pulley mounted to the front of the crank via three bolts. My crank pulley only has two tapped holes on it. I’m just wondering if anyone knows any part numbers for this extra pulley or has one or any information regarding this subject.

Instead of guessing if it's grey market or not, give me the serial number and I'll tell you what it is.

 

[colejackson4]

Instead of guessing if it's grey market or not, give me the serial number and I'll tell you what it is.

I don’t have the serial number right now unfortunately but based on the fact that the labels and decals are all different in Japanese and things like rice paddle tires and various other clues I’m fairly confident this is grey market. But if I remember next time I’m out to where I’m keeping the machine I’ll look.

 

[colejackson4]

An idea I’ve had would be to get some sort of a dual belt pulley that has the same keyed shaft diameter to replace the crank pulley. But I’m not sure if the crank shaft is beveled or if this would interfere with the harmonics of the engine or if there would be any other issues that would arise.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The factory designed pump on these were run off a shaft and adapter off the front of the crank, not an extra pulley.
Are you wanting to mount a belt driven pump off of it.
There are several old threads on here of people doing that for PS, but I don't think I read one for hydraulic operation.
If that's what your trying to do, you simply remove the belt tensioner pulley and bracket and replace it with a pump, no need to add a pulley to the crank.

 

[colejackson4]

Well that solution seems pretty obvious now that it’s staring me in the face.

The factory designed pump on these were run off a shaft and adapter off the front of the crank, not an extra pulley.
Are you wanting to mount a belt driven pump off of it.
There are several old threads on here of people doing that for PS, but I don't think I read one for hydraulic operation.
If that's what your trying to do, you simply remove the belt tensioner pulley and bracket and replace it with a pump, no need to add a pulley to the crank.

View attachment 155615

Well that solution seems pretty obvious now that is staring me in the face.

 

[colejackson4]

I will try to post pictures and updates as they happen but this will probably take a few months.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

An idea I’ve had would be to get some sort of a dual belt pulley that has the same keyed shaft diameter to replace the crank pulley. But I’m not sure if the crank shaft is beveled or if this would interfere with the harmonics of the engine or if there would be any other issues that would arise.

The usual way to do this is with an extended shaft and couplings, mounting the pump in front of the engine. Would a shaft clear the radiator? If you belt drive the pump, you'll need a shaft support, since these pumps are not designed for side loading.

 

[colejackson4]

The usual way to do this is with an extended shaft and couplings, mounting the pump in front of the engine. Would a shaft clear the radiator? If you belt drive the pump, you'll need a shaft support, since these pumps are not designed for side loading.

The shaft would not clear the radiator, that would’ve been my first idea but there isn’t enough clearance up front and I don’t really want to modify anything to make it fit. I’ll probably just end up going with the belt driven pump, but the side load isn’t something I thought about.

 

[Russell King]

Look at what is called a jack shaft arrangement. Mount the belt pulley on a shaft, have that shaft mounted onto two pillow block bearings (pulley between the bearings). That shaft can stick out and then be coupled to the pump (you could probably arrange some method to face mount the pump and the pump shaft slip into the driven shaft). Then all of that is mounted to the tractor in some adjustable method to tighten the belt.

You may need to worry with the pulley sizes to limit the speed of the hydraulic pump shaft. The belts will definitely limit how much power you can transfer.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The shaft would not clear the radiator, that would’ve been my first idea but there isn’t enough clearance up front and I don’t really want to modify anything to make it fit. I’ll probably just end up going with the belt driven pump, but the side load isn’t something I thought about.

Hydraulic pumps of that suze are not fractional horsepower.. If you opt for a belt drive I strongly suggest you use a synchronous belt and pulleys. Far better torque transmission and less side loading. I have done more than a few....

Dan

 

[colejackson4]

Thanks for all the input, but since I have a relatively limited set of skills and tools needed for making custom fixtures I think I will at least try the idea that north Idaho wolfman pitched because if it’s relative simplicity. If it doesn’t look like it’s going to work I will likely then opt for the shaft driven method coming from the front of the crank. But with that one I’ll have to do some modifications to the radiator support to get the clearance I’d need for the shaft.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for all the input, but since I have a relatively limited set of skills and tools needed for making custom fixtures I think I will at least try the idea that north Idaho wolfman pitched because if it’s relative simplicity. If it doesn’t look like it’s going to work I will likely then opt for the shaft driven method coming from the front of the crank. But with that one I’ll have to do some modifications to the radiator support to get the clearance I’d need for the shaft.

Speaking from a couple decades of experience - straight shaft drive all the way. Ots the simplest and most reliable.

Dan

 

[colejackson4]

Speaking from a couple decades of experience - straight shaft drive all the way. Ots the simplest and most reliable.

Dan

I’ll give it some thought but I’ve still got to build the front loader itself so I’ve got a little while to get the hydraulics sorted.