98 L2350 Glow Plug and Indicator

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

Hello,

I'm new here and tried searching but I can't find anything. My problem is, I was disconnecting my battery and accidently touched the radiator, causing an arc, now the glow plugs don't work, the tractor will turn over, but when I turn the key to the left to activate the glow plugs, the glow plug indicator (element) does nothing. I have torn the dash apart, and the only things I can find is the voltage regulator, and hazard relay. I have checked all of the fuses and are all good, fusible link is good, now when I go to start it, t it seems the starter is running faster than it did before this mishap. I am wondering if the voltage regulator has anything to do with the glow plugs and indicator, and my next thought is that the key switch may have fried.... Any advice would be great!!

 

[Flintknapper]

Hello,

I'm new here and tried searching but I can't find anything. My problem is, I was disconnecting my battery and accidently touched the radiator, causing an arc, now the glow plugs don't work, the tractor will turn over, but when I turn the key to the left to activate the glow plugs, the glow plug indicator (element) does nothing. I have torn the dash apart, and the only things I can find is the voltage regulator, and hazard relay. I have checked all of the fuses and are all good, fusible link is good, now when I go to start it, t it seems the starter is running faster than it did before this mishap. I am wondering if the voltage regulator has anything to do with the glow plugs and indicator, and my next thought is that the key switch may have fried.... Any advice would be great!!

Is your L2350 2wd or 4wd (they are wired differently).

I doubt the circuit goes through the voltage regulator....but need to know your model before looking at my schematics.

Do your 'dash/gauge' lights 'light up' when you turn the key to the left (and hold it there)?

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

Is your L2350 2wd or 4wd (they are wired differently).

I doubt the circuit goes through the voltage regulator....but need to know your model before looking at my schematics.

Do your 'dash/gauge' lights 'light up' when you turn the key to the left (and hold it there)?

View attachment 97963

Thank you for your reply, It is 4wd, and yes the lights come on when I hold it there

 

[Flintknapper]

Thank you for your reply, It is 4wd, and yes the lights come on when I hold it there

Good same as mine then.

Let me look at the electrical schematic and repair manual and see what it looks like.

I'll report back later, could take awhile.

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

Good same as mine then.

Let me look at the electrical schematic and repair manual and see what it looks like.

I'll report back later, could take awhile.

Thank you very much!! I really appreciate your time!! Do you have the glow plug indicator (element)?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The same wiper runs the glow plugs in preheat as it does cranking so it's very likely that you might have fried it.

The reason it's cranking faster is because there is no glow plug load.

You can verify this on the wires off the switch.

 

[Flintknapper]

Thank you very much!! I really appreciate your time!! Do you have the glow plug indicator (element)?

^^^^^

Yes, but apparently it is not required for the Glow Plugs to work. Looking at the electrical schematic, the glow plug indicator shares the G1 circuit in order to get its power but the circuit does not go through the indicator. In other words your indicator can be out....but your glow plugs should still receive battery power.

Both the indicator and glow plugs are simple resistance type mechanisms with minor differences (the indicator is just a coiled piece of wire). As you are aware.... the 'indicator' will eventually glow red giving visual confirmation that the glow plug circuit (which it shares) is energized.

IF your indicator is not glowing....then either it is burned out....or it is not receiving power. Per the schematic it plays no part in sending power to the glow plugs so that suggests your main switch or the wires/connectors are the issue.

I have a test procedure for the switch itself....but having trouble getting it from my phone to my computer right now. I will post it later.

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

^^^^^

Yes, but apparently it is not required for the Glow Plugs to work. Looking at the electrical schematic, the glow plug indicator shares the G1 circuit in order to get its power but the circuit does not go through the indicator. In other words your indicator can be out....but your glow plugs should still receive battery power.

Both the indicator and glow plugs are simple resistance type mechanisms with minor differences (the indicator is just a coiled piece of wire). As you are aware.... the 'indicator' will eventually glow red giving visual confirmation that the glow plug circuit (which it shares) is energized.

IF your indicator is not glowing....then either it is burned out....or it is not receiving power. Per the schematic it plays no part in sending power to the glow plugs so that suggests your main switch or the wires/connectors are the issue.

I have a test procedure for the switch itself....but having trouble getting it from my phone to my computer right now. I will post it later.

This is great information!! Thank you so much, I am thinking the main switch is fried! I checked the wires going to the switch and all look good, so maybe something internal of the switch? The tractor will still turn over but won't start. I'll wait for your test instruction.

 

[Flintknapper]

This is great information!! Thank you so much, I am thinking the main switch is fried! I checked the wires going to the switch and all look good, so maybe something internal of the switch? The tractor will still turn over but won't start. I'll wait for your test instruction.

Correct. Depending on the ambient temperature where you are, without the benefit of preheating the cylinder....its unlikely your tractor will start, relying on the compression alone. In fact, even in the summertime, I use the glow plugs to start the engine (first start of the day).

I suspect your glow plugs are not getting power at all (nor your indicator if it was working before). An internal issue with the main switch would do that, but so would a bad connection or wire.

Until I can get the images to download and make things clearer....the test procedure is as follows:

1. Turn and hold the main switch key to the preheat position (fully left and hold it).

2. While in the preheat position, use a multi-meter set on (Ohm mode) and measure the resistance across the B terminal and the G1 terminal. Then do the same thing across the B terminal and the AC terminal. If you get anything other than zero Ohms then your contacts in the switch are your issue (fried). Replace switch.

If the switch passes the test then look to connections and wiring.

A quick way to see if all the circuitry is working would be to hold the switch in the preheat position and go to the glow plugs and check for DC voltage there (you would need a helper unless you have clips and long leads on the MM).

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

Correct. Depending on the ambient temperature where you are, without the benefit of preheating the cylinder....its unlikely your tractor will start, relying on the compression alone. In fact, even in the summertime, I use the glow plugs to start the engine (first start of the day).

I suspect your glow plugs are not getting power at all (nor your indicator if it was working before). An internal issue with the main switch would do that, but so would a bad connection or wire.

Until I can get the images to download and make things clearer....the test procedure is as follows:

1. Turn and hold the main switch key to the preheat position (fully left and hold it).

2. While in the preheat position, use a multi-meter set on (Ohm mode) and measure the resistance across the B terminal and the G1 terminal. Then do the same thing across the B terminal and the AC terminal. If you get anything other than zero Ohms then your contacts in the switch are your issue (fried). Replace switch.

If the switch passes the test then look to connections and wiring.

A quick way to see if all the circuitry is working would be to hold the switch in the preheat position and go to the glow plugs and check for DC voltage there (you would need a helper unless you have clips and long leads on the MM).

Thank you, I’ll test tomorrow!

 

[Flintknapper]

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Correct. Depending on the ambient temperature where you are, without the benefit of preheating the cylinder....its unlikely your tractor will start, relying on the compression alone. In fact, even in the summertime, I use the glow plugs to start the engine (first start of the day).

I suspect your glow plugs are not getting power at all (nor your indicator if it was working before). An internal issue with the main switch would do that, but so would a bad connection or wire.

Until I can get the images to download and make things clearer....the test procedure is as follows:

1. Turn and hold the main switch key to the preheat position (fully left and hold it).

2. While in the preheat position, use a multi-meter set on (Ohm mode) and measure the resistance across the B terminal and the G1 terminal. Then do the same thing across the B terminal and the AC terminal. If you get anything other than zero Ohms then your contacts in the switch are your issue (fried). Replace switch.

If the switch passes the test then look to connections and wiring.

A quick way to see if all the circuitry is working would be to hold the switch in the preheat position and go to the glow plugs and check for DC voltage there (you would need a helper unless you have clips and long leads on the MM).

If he's going to check out the switch, shouldn't he pull the fusible link first?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If he's going to check out the switch, shouldn't he pull the fusible link first?

Disconnect one of the battery cables!

 

[Flintknapper]

Disconnect one of the battery cables!

^^^^^

This.

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

If he's going to check out the switch, shouldn't he pull the fusible link first?

Thank you!

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Always disconnect the ground cable first.

 

[Flintknapper]

Thank you!

Fusible link might be in line with the start/preheat circuit, I don't know as I haven't looked at the schematic on that, but leave it in place and remove one of the battery leads instead.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Fusible link might be in line with the start/preheat circuit, I don't know as I haven't looked at the schematic on that, but leave it in place and remove one of the battery leads instead.

The fusible link runs all the electric on these models.

 

[Vinnyp122516tdenning43@gm]

Thank you for everyone’s advice, I did check resistance at the main switch, and it looks as if it’s fried!! Thank you!

 

[Flintknapper]

Thank you for everyone’s advice, I did check resistance at the main switch, and it looks as if it’s fried!! Thank you!

The main switch should be part # 32430-31820 if you want to replace with genuine Kubota.

Your preheat indicator (if not working after main switch replacement) is # 15521-65950 (kubota).

Hope you are able to get it all sorted out.