I'm coming up for the 50 hour service and note that hydraulic and transmission oil filters are to be changed, but evidently the oil itself isn't changed. Can you do this? Do you drain and replace some of the oil? It seems to me the change should be at the same time. What do you do and how do you go about it.
3240 50-hour service
- Thread starter tedstone
- Start date
Unlike engine oil, hydraulic oil will have NO carbon build up from combustion...
SO, unless you have contaminated your hydraulic oil with water or other liquid, OR cooked it ... There is NO reason to change the oil.
The filter on the other hand most likely has picked up chunks and debris from assembly... ALSO check if there is a suction screen on the line feeding the pump, IF you have one clean it also.
Catch any oil you may loose when doing this and put it back in... There is nothing wrong with 50 hour oil that has been used to 'flush' out assembly chunks on a new machine.
KennyV
SO, unless you have contaminated your hydraulic oil with water or other liquid, OR cooked it ... There is NO reason to change the oil.
The filter on the other hand most likely has picked up chunks and debris from assembly... ALSO check if there is a suction screen on the line feeding the pump, IF you have one clean it also.
Catch any oil you may loose when doing this and put it back in... There is nothing wrong with 50 hour oil that has been used to 'flush' out assembly chunks on a new machine.
KennyV
Hook
Member
Equipment
L3240 with LA514 FEL, Box Blade, Howard Rotovator, All Purpose Plow, Sub Soiler
If have an L3240 GST and did a full service at about 70 hours. If you are just going to replace the filter I would have something under the filter that can catch and hold about five gallons of fluid. I would recommend loosening the filter without taking it all the way off. That way you can tighten it back if you need to replace whatever you are catching the fluid in. After it has quit draining you can then remove/replace the filter. Replacing the 5 gallons of fluid that has drained out requires a big funnel and a steady hand as that is about 40 pounds. I caught the fluid in a plastic mortar tub which you can get at Home Depot. Another refilling option is to use a siphon hose. Sink the hose into the fluid so that the hose fills up with fluid. Put you thumb over one end and place that end in the filler hole on your tractor. The only problem with this method is that your container of fluid has to be higher than the fill hole. I did mine that way when I replaced the fluid and I think I sat the 5 gallon bucket of fluid up behind the seat. Remember, when you loosen the filter the fluid will come out in a hurry! If you do replace all the fluid there are about 4 plugs that have to come out. Be sure you do not loose the copper washers on those plugs. They will leak if you do. If you need more info let me know.
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Thanks for your help. Did you change both the hydraulic filter and the transmission filter using this method? And was the total amount of oil you saved and replaced about 5 gallons? Thanks again.
Hook
Member
Equipment
L3240 with LA514 FEL, Box Blade, Howard Rotovator, All Purpose Plow, Sub Soiler
Mine is GST and yours must be Hydrostatic if you have two filters. I only had one filter to change and I changed the fluid as well which is about 11 gallons. If I remember the Hydrostat has a small filter on the left side and a bigger one on the right. Mine just has the big filter on the right side. If that is the case all I can tell you is to be ready no matter which filter you loosen and expect a good bit of fluid to drain out. I think the filter I replaced was about $70. The Super UDT was $105 per 5 gallons. I also drained the front axle which had the Super UDT and replaced it with the 80-90 weight gear oil. Without seeing the placement of your filters I would imagine the lowest one will drain the most fluid and I bet that is the one on the right side. The total amount of oil that drained out from the filter alone was about 5 gallons. I was surprised it was that much but I had read in a "post" to expect a lot of fluid to drain so I had a big drain pan ready. I'm glad I did.
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Happyman
New member
Equipment
L3940, FEL, BX90 Backhoe, Woods Tiller, Woods 8400 finish mower, Walenstein BX62
It's much easier and quicker than you think.
I have the L3940. The others are right that there is no need to change fluid until 300 hours.
Here's what I did and only lost about a quart or less of fluid. And I put new fluid in to replace the lost. I don't like reusing fluid due to possible contamination (just me).
There should be one filter on each side of the tractor just under the foot rest area. One is for the HST and the other is for hydraulics. If you have a gear tractor there may only be one filter. Anyway, put a CMU block (cinder block) in front of the front tire and in front of the rear tire on the side that has the filter you want to change. Drive the tractor up onto the blocks to raise one side. Remove that filter but have the new one ready to go on. You would be amazed at how little fluid comes out with the tractor lifted only 8" high on that side. Put new filter on, start tractor and drive off, move blocks to the other side...."rinse and repeat"
I have the L3940. The others are right that there is no need to change fluid until 300 hours.
Here's what I did and only lost about a quart or less of fluid. And I put new fluid in to replace the lost. I don't like reusing fluid due to possible contamination (just me).
There should be one filter on each side of the tractor just under the foot rest area. One is for the HST and the other is for hydraulics. If you have a gear tractor there may only be one filter. Anyway, put a CMU block (cinder block) in front of the front tire and in front of the rear tire on the side that has the filter you want to change. Drive the tractor up onto the blocks to raise one side. Remove that filter but have the new one ready to go on. You would be amazed at how little fluid comes out with the tractor lifted only 8" high on that side. Put new filter on, start tractor and drive off, move blocks to the other side...."rinse and repeat"
I dropped all my fluid at the 50hr service and after seeing all the metal flakes that comes out of the drains I was proud I did. Every moving part that has to mess with another part has to wear together and you will get some metal from this. I haven't had any component fail so I don't think I had any wear that wasn't normal. My 300hr service is where I had nothing but clean oil come out. I was glad that I drained mine out at 50 instead of running the oil and taking a chance on stiring up deposits and running them thru my hyd system at some point. The front axle was very dirty to and it has been the same story on all 3 of my new Kubotas. I know everybody has their own PM service scedule but if I bought a new tractor tomorrow I would be planning on doing a full service at 50 hrs.
Both filters are approximately the same size, one on each side of the tractor. One filters all the hydraulic fluid, the other filters the fluid going into the HST finer than the rest. There is no suction strainer on this model. You can spin the filters on and not lose a ton of fluid just use a pan to catch the leaking fluid and move quickly.
50-hour service requires new oil!
I disagree with everyone who just changes filters at 50 hours. That new oil has a lot of metal in it! The owners manual on my new L3700SU does not specify changing the hydraulic oil until 400 hours, only the filters like Happyman did. Do you really want all that dirty oil in there for 350 more hours on a brand new machine?? The older manuals require changing the oil at 50 hours, so what has changed?? Only the manual changed, but your tractor still needs the service. All the mechanics I asked strongly recommend changing the oil. Do you really want to save $50 and allow increased wear for hundreds of hours on a $18,000 purchase that you will keep for 20 years?
I disagree with everyone who just changes filters at 50 hours. That new oil has a lot of metal in it! The owners manual on my new L3700SU does not specify changing the hydraulic oil until 400 hours, only the filters like Happyman did. Do you really want all that dirty oil in there for 350 more hours on a brand new machine?? The older manuals require changing the oil at 50 hours, so what has changed?? Only the manual changed, but your tractor still needs the service. All the mechanics I asked strongly recommend changing the oil. Do you really want to save $50 and allow increased wear for hundreds of hours on a $18,000 purchase that you will keep for 20 years?
It's much easier and quicker than you think.
I have the L3940. The others are right that there is no need to change fluid until 300 hours.
Here's what I did and only lost about a quart or less of fluid. And I put new fluid in to replace the lost. I don't like reusing fluid due to possible contamination (just me).
There should be one filter on each side of the tractor just under the foot rest area. One is for the HST and the other is for hydraulics. If you have a gear tractor there may only be one filter. Anyway, put a CMU block (cinder block) in front of the front tire and in front of the rear tire on the side that has the filter you want to change. Drive the tractor up onto the blocks to raise one side. Remove that filter but have the new one ready to go on. You would be amazed at how little fluid comes out with the tractor lifted only 8" high on that side. Put new filter on, start tractor and drive off, move blocks to the other side...."rinse and repeat"
I agree completely with Bulldog. The extra time and money you spent at 50 hours will pay you back over the life of the machine. You will get longer life from all these components. There is a lot of metal in that oil. Do you want it moving all through your tractor for hundreds of more hard hours? Not me! I changed all my fluids at 50.
We used to say the Japanese put fish oil in new motorcycles.
I agree with you guys, nothing better than new oil and filters as soon as possible.
No telling what kind of fish scales are floating around in there.
And would you have a shower and put on dirty shorts. NEVER.
I agree with you guys, nothing better than new oil and filters as soon as possible.
No telling what kind of fish scales are floating around in there.
And would you have a shower and put on dirty shorts. NEVER.
I'm glad to see that someone else got to see how nasty the oil is at 50 hrs. Out of all the oil I have ever changed the 50 hr service is by far the worst other than when a internal component has failed. No matter what brand of oil you choose to use it's money well spent to get in changed at 50 hrs.
Hey Y'all, this being my first post here due to not finding any intro forum.
I have a L4400 and I also have the shop manual a few more $$ but worth every penny.
I'm getting ready to do the 50 hr changes and the Shop Manual requires the engine oil and Hyd filters be changed along with the engine oil, Hydraulic oil and front axle case oil be changed at 50 hrs. These are all indicated with a STAR which translates to "MUST BE DONE @50 HRS"
The decision I'm trying to make is which motor oil to use, I buy my diesel at a busy local Truck stop that is ultra low and I feel it's about as fresh as you can get. However I do pay a bit more for it.
Any one have any thoughts about diesel motor oil?
I have a L4400 and I also have the shop manual a few more $$ but worth every penny.
I'm getting ready to do the 50 hr changes and the Shop Manual requires the engine oil and Hyd filters be changed along with the engine oil, Hydraulic oil and front axle case oil be changed at 50 hrs. These are all indicated with a STAR which translates to "MUST BE DONE @50 HRS"
The decision I'm trying to make is which motor oil to use, I buy my diesel at a busy local Truck stop that is ultra low and I feel it's about as fresh as you can get. However I do pay a bit more for it.
Any one have any thoughts about diesel motor oil?
Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400.
Synthetic is not necessary but those advocates will be here any minute.
Amsoil 5w30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil.Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 400.
Synthetic is not necessary but those advocates will be here any minute.
If you don't care about the ability to just need one oil change per year (or 600 hrs), cooler engine temp or added fuel economy I would just used Rotella or Delo.
Synthetic is not necessary, it's just better.
I found this about synthetic oils.
http://www.kubotaengine.com/support/faq.html
Q: If I use synthetic oil, can I extend my oil change interval?
A: No. Since Kubota can not test every type of synthetic oil, we can not predict how long it will last in the engine. So the oil change interval must remain the same.
http://www.kubotaengine.com/support/faq.html
Q: If I use synthetic oil, can I extend my oil change interval?
A: No. Since Kubota can not test every type of synthetic oil, we can not predict how long it will last in the engine. So the oil change interval must remain the same.
The shop manual gives several weights but none are 5W30,
10W30, 10W40 or straight 10,20,30W depending on temp.
Oil change every 100 HRS.
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You have a good point Kickstart, 5w30 is not listed in the manual as a oil weight. I don't see 15w40 either.
Q: Is everyone using 15w40 in trouble?
A: Not if it has the correct API rating.
In my manual it say Engine oil: API Service Classification CC or CD
Amsoil 5w30 Applications: API CI-4+ , CF which not only meets but exceeds API CC , CD
Q: Does Kubota say you can extend drain intervals by using synthetic oil?
A: No, they don't test oil capabilities. The oil company lists the performance of their oil capabilities and have to stand behind that rating.
Amsoil 5w30 HDD is recommended for extended drain intervals in engines that are unmodified and in good working order.
Diesel engine service 3x the OEM recommendation not to exceed 50,000 miles/600 hrs or one year, whichever comes first. Drain intervals may be extended further with oil analysis.
I just figure as long as it's covered by a Warranty I'll do what they suggest in my 2010 manual.
I'm sure an older tractor has different API requirements and most of the oil today will be above those ratings.
10W-30 Rotella will work fine in mine!
Next we could talk about Kubota filters vs Fram
I'm sure an older tractor has different API requirements and most of the oil today will be above those ratings.
10W-30 Rotella will work fine in mine!
Next we could talk about Kubota filters vs Fram
I would like to hear your thoughts on Fram filters. I had a bad experience with a Fram about 15 yrs ago and I will never have another one on anything I own. It may have been that one filter but I hate to chance it after that.