Looking for recommendations how to connect a 12 volt aux outlet socket to a B3200, for a weeds sprayer being towed behind tractor. All recommendations appreciated.
12 volt aux outlet
- Thread starter tonyvkubota
- Start date
tonyvkubota,
If you want the outlet hot all the time, you can go right to the battery. Just be sure to put a fuse in line shortly after the battery on the positive lead. Or you could put in a relay and make the outlet switched with the ignition so it is on only when the key is on. Thirdly, you could do the second option and put an aux switch in between the ignition and the relay and make it hot only when the key is on and when the aux switch is on.
If you want the outlet hot all the time, you can go right to the battery. Just be sure to put a fuse in line shortly after the battery on the positive lead. Or you could put in a relay and make the outlet switched with the ignition so it is on only when the key is on. Thirdly, you could do the second option and put an aux switch in between the ignition and the relay and make it hot only when the key is on and when the aux switch is on.
Consider using a 2-wire trailer connector set spliced into the pump wiring and also from the tractor. Just be sure to have the 12-volt red (HOT) on the tractor side be the protected or shielded prong. And fuse both sides of the extended wiring harness--just in case.
Look at someplace like West Marine or motorcycle parts houses for a weather-proof 'standard' 12-vdc 'vehicle dash mount' outlet that you can either mount in a bracket or through one of the threaded holes (size for fit: 3/4- or 1-inch) in a weatherproof electrical box from your local hardware or electrical supply place. That way you could toss the pump into your pickup should the need arise, using the cigarette lighter outlet. Be sure to use the type of 12-vdc male connector on the pump pigtail that unscrews and has an internal fuse.
I like the other poster's idea of wiring the new auxillary outlet through your engine start switch---engine 'off', so is 'aux outlet'.
Please post back your decision how to proceed and experiences along with pictures so we may all learn.
Look at someplace like West Marine or motorcycle parts houses for a weather-proof 'standard' 12-vdc 'vehicle dash mount' outlet that you can either mount in a bracket or through one of the threaded holes (size for fit: 3/4- or 1-inch) in a weatherproof electrical box from your local hardware or electrical supply place. That way you could toss the pump into your pickup should the need arise, using the cigarette lighter outlet. Be sure to use the type of 12-vdc male connector on the pump pigtail that unscrews and has an internal fuse.
I like the other poster's idea of wiring the new auxillary outlet through your engine start switch---engine 'off', so is 'aux outlet'.
Please post back your decision how to proceed and experiences along with pictures so we may all learn.
I am going to do the same thing to my L3200 but I want it to also be 'jump' capable so it would be easy to charge or jump start the tractor from the outlet.
I'm going to run 4 gauge wire and have a small 'panel' with both a standard 'cigarette lighter' style outlet and a covered pair of connection points for jumper cables. The lighter socket will have an on off switch and be fused, the jumper connectors will not, but will be covered so you can't accidentally touch them with anything.
I'll also put an auxiliary volt meter so I can quickly check the charge on the battery, hooked into the socket line of course so I can keep it turned off most of the time.
It may sound like overkill but it will also give me a power point to connect additional lights and powered devices to, maybe even a secondary battery... hmmm.
I'm going to run 4 gauge wire and have a small 'panel' with both a standard 'cigarette lighter' style outlet and a covered pair of connection points for jumper cables. The lighter socket will have an on off switch and be fused, the jumper connectors will not, but will be covered so you can't accidentally touch them with anything.
I'll also put an auxiliary volt meter so I can quickly check the charge on the battery, hooked into the socket line of course so I can keep it turned off most of the time.
It may sound like overkill but it will also give me a power point to connect additional lights and powered devices to, maybe even a secondary battery... hmmm.
A poster here has addressed a need many of us encounter: having a quickly accessible (without having to disassemble the tractor to get to the battery) method to jump start a tired vehicle.
Not much hope of using a 'cigarette lighter'-type outlet for such a high amperage draw.
Commercial vehicles such as service trucks often have a male-female plug assembly wired to their battery with a pig-tail or bracket-mounted plug handily available. You might consider something similar. Refer to Grainger for the product--but my Lord there has to be a less expensive version somewhere online--eBay perhaps.
A much less expensive method is to use high-amperage welding-lead quick-connects. The last set I got was from Tractor Supply but any welding equipment store should have them. For a set of battery cables you'd need two sets. Just be sure to wire the RED or PLUS side from the battery to the completely shielded FEMALE receptacle and the the battery negative to the male plug side---to prevent inadvertent grounding to your vehicle chassis and cross-connection and sparks.
I think mine are Tweco; if you buy different brands (Radnor by AirGas) be certain they interchange: they vary by size of cable. Years ago I had one side fail to 'lock', so I called up Tweco TechRep. Turns out these things are rated for (only!) 1,000 lock-unlock cycles and mine failed early. They sent a replacement.
Please post back how your hook-up works so we may all learn.
Not much hope of using a 'cigarette lighter'-type outlet for such a high amperage draw.
Commercial vehicles such as service trucks often have a male-female plug assembly wired to their battery with a pig-tail or bracket-mounted plug handily available. You might consider something similar. Refer to Grainger for the product--but my Lord there has to be a less expensive version somewhere online--eBay perhaps.
A much less expensive method is to use high-amperage welding-lead quick-connects. The last set I got was from Tractor Supply but any welding equipment store should have them. For a set of battery cables you'd need two sets. Just be sure to wire the RED or PLUS side from the battery to the completely shielded FEMALE receptacle and the the battery negative to the male plug side---to prevent inadvertent grounding to your vehicle chassis and cross-connection and sparks.
I think mine are Tweco; if you buy different brands (Radnor by AirGas) be certain they interchange: they vary by size of cable. Years ago I had one side fail to 'lock', so I called up Tweco TechRep. Turns out these things are rated for (only!) 1,000 lock-unlock cycles and mine failed early. They sent a replacement.
Please post back how your hook-up works so we may all learn.
I was going to cheat and just use standard battery 'terminal' screw on types on them, and then standard battery terminal covers to protect them. All of this in a nice double gang electrical box.
I'll post up pictures when I get it done and the process I followed. I've done it before on other vehicles. It lets you use standard 'jumper cables' with ease.
(The terminal 'kits' look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Batt...05&prg=10050&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=221355405811&rt=nc )
I'll post up pictures when I get it done and the process I followed. I've done it before on other vehicles. It lets you use standard 'jumper cables' with ease.
(The terminal 'kits' look like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Batt...05&prg=10050&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=221355405811&rt=nc )
Last edited:
gpreuss
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Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
Those are nice looking posts! Frankly, with the ease of access to the battery in the L3200/3800, I've never worried about boosting the battery. I mounted a Powerlet motorcycle style receptacle down by the fuse block - there is a threaded boss there. I wired it through an inline fuse to the positive starter post. It will handle 10-15 amps; plenty for a trickle charger.
The cigarette lighter receptacle is the most practical, and most readily available. Mount it where you can access it for electric mittens or an electric vest or seat pad, for that cold winter saddle time.
On the L3200 there is already an auxiliary connector in the left hand fender well. That is an easy power4 source for the sprayer.
Oh, the jumper point isn't necessarily to jump the L3200... but I have other vehicles that regularly require jump or boosting (My D17 comes to mind) and I can keep a set of cables on the tractor to boost other vehicles! (it's a 2 way street! 
)
I'm lazy, I don't want to keep picking up the hood! LOL!
(And don't think I haven't eye'd that aux out receptacle for just that purpose... heated motorcycle gear here I come!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Tourma...9?pt=US_CSA_MC_Vests&var=&hash=item3f22a3bf5d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRSTGEAR-H...parel_Merchandise&hash=item2a329a2f0d&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRSTGEAR-W...parel_Merchandise&hash=item2a34be6156&vxp=mtr
Toasty!
)I'm lazy, I don't want to keep picking up the hood! LOL!
(And don't think I haven't eye'd that aux out receptacle for just that purpose... heated motorcycle gear here I come!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Tourma...9?pt=US_CSA_MC_Vests&var=&hash=item3f22a3bf5d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRSTGEAR-H...parel_Merchandise&hash=item2a329a2f0d&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIRSTGEAR-W...parel_Merchandise&hash=item2a34be6156&vxp=mtr
Toasty!