Buying a B7100

Lillis said:

Hey.

Im looking at maby buying a Kubota B7100 with 4x4.
They are asking about $3000 for it with the snowblade.
Is this a bad deal?
It is in good conition, with a new paint job.
A totalt of: 2000hours on it.

Does any know what year this one is from?


Im thinking of building a front end lifter for it, is there mounting points in the frame for this?
Is this model built to have a front end loader?

Does any one know if there is some drawings for a loader for this model?

Thanks in advice... This is my first Kubota, and also my first Tractor ever =)

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Mid 1980s vintage.

The B7100 is a good tractor but getting old.

I'm a bit skeptical of the tires. The pictured tires are not OEM tires for a B7100 and do not look OEM size.

I would verify tire size, both F & R. Using non standard tire sizes, if mismatched F/R results in rapid wear of the front axle and hubs.

Could be OK, but I would want more information.

SDT

The B7100 and B7001 models are very very similar -- so much so that early B7100 serial numbers start with "B7001". The main difference is that the B7001 version was sold only in Japan. Used ones were often exported, and Kubota felt that was cutting into their overseas sales. So Kubota dealers (in North America) are under orders not to sell parts to B7001 owners.

The answer of course is to simply tell the dealer the parts are for a B7100, since most parts are interchangeable. They can't tell for sure unless you give them the entire serial number.

The photos show that the front wheels are secured with 4 bolts, which marks that tractor as an earlier model (1972 to 1985). Later models have 6 bolt hubs. Tractordata.com will help you refine that by serial number if it really is a B7100: http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1271-kubota-b7100.html

Yes, you can build a small FEL (front end loader) for these tractors. I posted photos and sketches of my own build here. Look in the fabrication section for other build examples. Note that the original Kubota brand FEL was limited to lifting about 500lbs (225kg) of material -- about 5 cubic feet (140 litres) of soil. In other words, about 1 wheelbarrow load per bucket. You could build a bigger bucket, but you might break the front axle trying to use it!

As Wolfman said, even at that size your build needs to include a sub-frame so you don't break the tractor in half. All that said, I found my small FEL is extremely useful (and so have my children and friends!)

Also as Wolfman pointed out, it appears that the entire three point hitch (3ph) assembly, including the lift cylinder, is missing. The bottom pins are visible, so perhaps the vendor has the other parts. The 3ph is an esssential feature for most rear-mounted tractor implements like snowblowers, tillers and plows. And a counterweight for the FEL!

On the other hand, one could build a small back-hoe in place of a 3ph which would make a great counterweight and compliment the FEL!

Tires can be changed, although tractor tires are not cheap. It's not an issue in 2wd mode, but the tire size ratio (front to rear) is important in 4wd, especially on hard ground. You would need to take some measurements to see if those are close enough. As for price, that depends a lot on where you are. If they are rare in Sweden, then maybe that's a great deal.

Lillis said:

Serial Number: 69474
Model: B 7100 DP

I cant find that serial number on "Tractordata.com".

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64448 (1980) < 69474 < 70678 (1981). So I would think that tractor is a 1980 model.

When i compare the the Sub-frame on the pictures with your sub-frame they dont look similar. And also, it looks like someone made an extra frame from the front til back under the tractor underneeth?

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The extra frame below the main frame is the sub frame. It is not part of the tractor as shipped from the factory, it is added to reinforce the tractor when hydraulic implements like FEL or backhoes are added. I think the tractor you are looking at had one added to accommodate that plow. It probably could be incorporated into any custom FEL you might make, saving you the work of making your own.

My tractor is a 1994 model. The subframe design was complicated by accommodating the forward facing PTO, something that the earlier version didn't have. I initially used 1" heavy wall square tube, but later beefed that up by doubling it on each side.

Also the area where you bolt your FEL to the sub-frame on the Kubota dont look the same, where you have a plate with bolts?
Or is it just covered by the snow blade attachment?

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Again, mine is a later model and may have some slight differences in frame attachment points. I have a forward pair and a rearward pair of heavy, tapped steel plates for mounting things to the frame. I'm not sure what differences there may be.

Very nice build torch!
I have read it from beginning to end two times already
Did I understand it correct the the traveling/lifting distance of the hydraulic cylinders are 16" = 40cm?
And that the outer diameter of the hydraulic tube is 2"?

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Thanks, but to be fair, I had a lot of advice from the friendly folks on this forum.

Yes, the cylinders are 16" long x 2" inside diameter. I think the pistons are 1-1/8".

1-1/2" diameter cylinders would probably be fine and would lift the load faster because smaller cylinders require less fluid volume and the B7100 pump only delivers 3 USGPM. It takes about 14 seconds to raise my bucket fully and return it to the ground. I lowered the relief valve pressure setting to limit the load I could lift so I won't damage the tractor. At full pressure, the 2" cylinders could easily lift well over 1,000 lbs payload -- far more than the front axle is designed to handle.

On the bright side, the cylinders were on sale for less than the price of 1-1/2" ones and I certainly don't have to worry about bending a hydraulic piston!

Wounder what the shipping cost would be to Sweden if you sell me yours.

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There's an old saying that if you have to ask the price, then you can't afford it. I think that applies to shipping overseas too.