Valve stem, in or out ?

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
My valve stems on the rear tires, on my L245F are located on the inside of the tractor tire. Ive always maintained tire pressure this way, but I dont remember having another tractor with the valve stem located on the inside. The four outer mounting bolts look to be, that they could be removed and I could swap tires, remount bolts, and then my valve stems would be on the outside.
However my question is that, am I better off leaving the stem inside, and its better protected ?
Is this standard mounting procedure for this model of tractor ?
 

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tiredguy

New member

Equipment
B3030 HSTC,B2781 51" front mounted snowblower,60" MMM
Jan 21, 2010
302
0
0
northern lower Michigan
In order to have the valves outside you'll have to switch side putting the left side tire on the right and the right side tire on the left making sure to keep the tread lugs ( bars ) pointing in the right direction.

R1 ag lug tires are directional so if you simply took the rim to wheel flange bolts off and turned it around the vale would be outboard but the tread lugs would be
pointing backwards. Make sure the clearance is okay as sometimes the offset
changes when you turn them around too.
Al
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
In order to have the valves outside you'll have to switch side putting the left side tire on the right and the right side tire on the left making sure to keep the tread lugs ( bars ) pointing in the right direction.

R1 ag lug tires are directional so if you simply took the rim to wheel flange bolts off and turned it around the vale would be outboard but the tread lugs would be
pointing backwards. Make sure the clearance is okay as sometimes the offset
changes when you turn them around too.
Al
I do apologize for not being more clear in my original post but I believe I mentioned the same thing you mentioned to begin with, but without greater detail. I do believe I can swap tires from side to side and the valve stem will be on the outside, and the tread direction will still be correct, however my question(s) still remain... am I better off leaving the stem inside, and its better protected ?
Is this standard mounting procedure for this model of tractor ?

Thanks for your time and concern. I will keep what you said in mind.
 
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tiredguy

New member

Equipment
B3030 HSTC,B2781 51" front mounted snowblower,60" MMM
Jan 21, 2010
302
0
0
northern lower Michigan
As long as you can check and maintain proper air pressure alright if I were
you I wouldn't change them. Having the valves on the outside leaves them
more vulnerable to getting caught on something that could break them off.
Most industrial application wheels have pipe nipples welded to the rim over the valve and sometimes a threaded cap too so that they don't get broken off by
sticks stumps rocks etc.
Al
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
As long as you can check and maintain proper air pressure alright if I were
you I wouldn't change them. Having the valves on the outside leaves them
more vulnerable to getting caught on something that could break them off.
Most industrial application wheels have pipe nipples welded to the rim over the valve and sometimes a threaded cap too so that they don't get broken off by
sticks stumps rocks etc.
Al
That was my same concern, something breaking them off. If I ever get new rims I will get protectors welded on and have the stems on the outside for easier access.
Now I have to decide if I want to dis-mount the wheel assy, to gain better access to the valve stem, so that I can load with fluid, or try to load the tires while still mounted in place and fight with the fender being in the way.
Thanks for the help.
 
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G.rid

Member

Equipment
L48 tlb, ssqa forks, manual thumb for hoe
Aug 19, 2016
207
17
18
Oxford, NS, Canada
It's a little difficult to tell in the photo, but I'd say the rims have a different offset if you reverse them. Right now they look narrow. Swap sides to get the stems out and your track should get wider. Better for stability but not so good if you're in tight spaces.
You should be able to measure the offset and figure out what you would gain. Also keep in mind the width of your implements.
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
It's a little difficult to tell in the photo, but I'd say the rims have a different offset if you reverse them. Right now they look narrow. Swap sides to get the stems out and your track should get wider. Better for stability but not so good if you're in tight spaces.
You should be able to measure the offset and figure out what you would gain. Also keep in mind the width of your implements.
I understand that it might be hard to see from the photo but Im 99.9% sure there would be no more difference in width than maybe 1/2" and thats due to the approximately 1/4" thick steel x 2. Im certain I can swap the tires and rim, keep correct tire pattern, and valve stem would be on the outside.
Sooooo you are saying you would put the valve stems out and not worry about damaging them ?
Or are most valve stems on the outside without a protector around them ?
It would be my luck to put them on the outside and damage the valve stem the first day. lol
Thanks for the reply.
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,803
5,523
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
When you fill your tires with fluid you will need to jack the tires up off the ground. If you jack the tractor from the center you will have both tires off the ground at the same time. Then you can easily rotate the tire to the easiest position to fill the fluid.

Then you don't have the need to switch the tires side to side.
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
When you fill your tires with fluid you will need to jack the tires up off the ground. If you jack the tractor from the center you will have both tires off the ground at the same time. Then you can easily rotate the tire to the easiest position to fill the fluid.

Then you don't have the need to switch the tires side to side.
Yes I understand what you are saying and Ive loaded tires one time before several years ago. I will be sure to do it the same way like you mentioned.
I could be wrong, and I will probably look again today, but I believe Im going to have a hard time gaining access to the valve stem for filling with fluid due to clearance between the tire and the fender, because my valve stems are on the inside.
I want to turn the valve stems out, but I will have to look again today to see how they are mounted. Maybe I will take some better pics.
Thanks for you response and help.
I need all I can get. I pride myself on common sense but Ill be dang if I dont screw up the simple things too often.
Procrastinate ?
 
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D2Cat

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Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,803
5,523
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Mudball, my comment was knowing your valve stems are on the inside. I recently had the same problem and used the solution I suggested on an L4240.

Another solution, since you're concerned about damage to valve stems, is to remove the tire/wheel....fill them then remount them as they were.
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
Well D2Cat you must first understand that Im not the sharpest knife in the kitchen drawer. lol
Yes I do believe I understand what you are saying but I also believe its hard for you and others to fully understand my situation without being here and seeing it in person. One of the disadvantages of my pictures combined with my uneducated descriptions of what Im trying to do. But Im still learning. I will still follow your description on how to fill, regardless of the position of the valve stem...I think. lol
I also have considered, but was trying to avoid your suggestion of removing the tire/wheel just to fill and then remount, or the other problem of filling them "as is" due to gaining access of valve stem with fill adapter, garden hose, and so on, because of clearance between fender and valve stem. There may be enough room, and I guess I wont know until I actually try. I thought if I go through that trouble then I might as well leave the stems on the outside. The fact that you suggested it,(remove, fill, remount w/stems inside) and the fact that Ive already considered it once, tells me your probably right.
Here are a few more pictures from the inside view. I hope they help.
Thanks for your suggestions and comments as well.
 

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G.rid

Member

Equipment
L48 tlb, ssqa forks, manual thumb for hoe
Aug 19, 2016
207
17
18
Oxford, NS, Canada
If you're thinking of taking the rims off anyway, then cut a few pieces of pipe, notch, and weld them on. It wont be a big amount of weld so it wouldn't effect the tires. Just clean, prime, and paint and the stems will be safe. Then they could be mounted either way without worry.

By the looks of the inside pictures, I'm thinking you'll gain about 3-4" per side. It's based on the position of the lugs inside the rim.
 

Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
If you're thinking of taking the rims off anyway, then cut a few pieces of pipe, notch, and weld them on. It wont be a big amount of weld so it wouldn't effect the tires. Just clean, prime, and paint and the stems will be safe. Then they could be mounted either way without worry.

By the looks of the inside pictures, I'm thinking you'll gain about 3-4" per side. It's based on the position of the lugs inside the rim.
Thats an option I will definitely keep in mind. Good idea.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 

D2Cat

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Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,803
5,523
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Mudball you can go here to find the amount of fluid required for your particular tire size. http://www.messicks.com/blog/post/Liquid-Tire-Ballast-Chart.aspx

Looks like you'll be in the neighborhood of 200 lbs of fluid per tire. You probably don't want to take the wheel off and fill and then have to wrestle it back on. Might be too much weight and safety is a concern.

Here are a couple of pictures that may give you an idea of how to fill the tires. I bought the liquid fill valve (cost like $16 at local NAPA) and didn't use it.

I have a 15 gal spray tank I use for spraying weeds. Dumped the windshield washer fluid in the tank. Removed the spray wand. Put the hose that was on the spray want on the valve stem after removing the core. Put clamp on end of hose on valve stem. Activated pump with a battery.

I had to keep pretty busy to keep the jugs upside down to keep the tank in supply, that's how fast it filled. I pumped 42 gallons per side on my tires. I stopped the pump and removed the clamp to let air out of the tire about 4 times on each side.

Pretty simple and easy. That's why I suggest you get your valve stem up, and leave your tires mounted as they are. You could actually put a 2' piece of hose on the valve stem (with a splice)and make it easier to let the air out by not having to reach back and up to the 12 o'clock valve stem.

Put the 2' piece on then rotate the tire up to 12 o'clock and start filling.
 

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Mudball

Active member

Equipment
L2501 HST 4WD
Aug 3, 2015
526
25
28
TN
Neat idea D2Cat
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that with the pics, and the link.
Very helpful info.