B6000 Air Breather

K

KuB6000

New member

Equipment
B6000
May 7, 2009
18
0
0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I disassembled my air breather tonight to change the oil in it. While assembling it, I realized that the air breather does not make sense to me. In my opinion, it does not force the dirty air to go through the oil. The dirty air is free to go into the engine. I've attached a schematic of what I think can happen.

Several questions:
1) Is the black, conical, steel cup supposed to touch the dirty air intake tube?
2) Is the black conical, steel cup supposed to touch the perforated screen with foam?

In my case, the answer to question 1 is definitely not. The answer to question 2 is that it is close. Perhaps an 1/8" to 1/4" away.

More questions:
3) The manual mentions to fill with oil up to the indicated level. I can find no mark to indicate how high to fill with oil. There was about 1" in the bottom of the plastic cup when I took possession of it.

4) Does the perforated metal screen with foam come out? If so, how do you remove? Fortunately, this foam appears to be saturated with oil, and I suspect this has been preventing most of the dirt from entering the engine. If it can't be removed, I imagine I will soak the whole assembly in gasoline.

5) In the parts manual, it mentions Item 20, Part No 10283-11210. I'm not certain I have that piece. It may be wedged up there with the metal screen I can't remove. I've also noted the plastic bowl doesn't seem to quite "mate up" with the metal parts as well as I would expect. It's close - but I'm wonder if perhaps this part got exchanged with the wrong part.

I have attached a couple pictures of my assembly in hopes that you will spot something I don't.

Thank you,
Chris
 

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C

ChrisB6000

New member
May 5, 2009
15
0
1
BC Canada
KU, I heading down the exact same road you are, one of discovery of a new (to me) B6000.

I believe, the air filter works by making the air take a really sharp 180 degree turn. Particulates in the air can't make the turn and end up hitting the oil surface and sticking. The oil soaked screen catches the rest.

Chris.
 
K

KuB6000

New member

Equipment
B6000
May 7, 2009
18
0
0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Thank you! That makes more sense. I would have never thought of that.

That brings up two more questions:

1) How much oil do I put in the bottom of the plastic cup? I assume I want enough that there is a 1/4" of it in the bottom of the black, conical, metal cup so there is oil for the air to impinge on? When I took it apart, the oil level was below the metal cup.

2) Do you ever clean the metal/foam screen? If so, how? Based on the parts diagram, it doesn't appear to come apart.

Thank you,
Chris
 
C

ChrisB6000

New member
May 5, 2009
15
0
1
BC Canada
Chris,

I took mine off the tractor and used a parts cleaner tank. Took a while of just flushing cleaner through it and smoe brushing to fully de-gunk it. A really good shot withthe air compresssor got rid of the rest.

The clear bowl originally came with a fill line. I could still see mine but I assume yours is non-readable. If I recall correctly when at the proper level there is about 1/4" of oil inside the black bowl.


Chris
 
J

jacques didier

New member
Jul 27, 2010
2
0
0
Brussels, Brabant, Belgium
KuB6000 said:
I disassembled my air breather tonight to change the oil in it. While assembling it, I realized that the air breather does not make sense to me. In my opinion, it does not force the dirty air to go through the oil. The dirty air is free to go into the engine. I've attached a schematic of what I think can happen.

Several questions:
1) Is the black, conical, steel cup supposed to touch the dirty air intake tube?
2) Is the black conical, steel cup supposed to touch the perforated screen with foam?

In my case, the answer to question 1 is definitely not. The answer to question 2 is that it is close. Perhaps an 1/8" to 1/4" away.

More questions:
3) The manual mentions to fill with oil up to the indicated level. I can find no mark to indicate how high to fill with oil. There was about 1" in the bottom of the plastic cup when I took possession of it.

4) Does the perforated metal screen with foam come out? If so, how do you remove? Fortunately, this foam appears to be saturated with oil, and I suspect this has been preventing most of the dirt from entering the engine. If it can't be removed, I imagine I will soak the whole assembly in gasoline.

5) In the parts manual, it mentions Item 20, Part No 10283-11210. I'm not certain I have that piece. It may be wedged up there with the metal screen I can't remove. I've also noted the plastic bowl doesn't seem to quite "mate up" with the metal parts as well as I would expect. It's close - but I'm wonder if perhaps this part got exchanged with the wrong part.

I have attached a couple pictures of my assembly in hopes that you will spot something I don't.

Thank you,
Chris
Click to expand...
I have a B6000 too, still don't understand how the system of the airfilter works.
The plastic cup should be filled with oil but the conical metal cup also need to be filled with oil, or needs to be just clean?

As far as i think is that the plastic cup needs to be filled with oil and the conical metal cup too? Is this the right way?
And which oil is be used for this, not too viscous oil he..

Thanks in advance.
Didier
 
R

Rust Addict

New member

Equipment
B6000E
Jan 2, 2010
83
0
0
Sidney, Maine, USA
The metal cup has 2 holes in the bottom, so oil will even out in the plastic bowel after you let it rest a minute. I'd say that you don't want to overfill the oil level, will cause it to leak out at the gasket when your running the engine, even pull it up into engine. If your 1/4" of oil is checked on the bench before you hang it on the canister, this will be the level in both the cup and the clear bowl. Should be good at this level.

I wouldn't use gas to clean the element (desiel maybe), could over fuel the engine with gas vapor on startup and bad things can happen if you do that.

I'll just let the dirt drain down on its own and take care of the bowl oil.
 
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A

Ach

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6000 DT with B219 Loader
Mar 1, 2011
72
0
0
Big Island, Hawaii, USA
My air breather doesn't have the damper bowl (or any other of the parts for that matter aside from the plastic holder bowl and the screen/stack).

Any reason any of you can think of why I shouldn't fabricate one out of a metal bowl by drilling holes in it and placing that in there? New ones run $90.00. Likewise, are the other parts critical in any of your opinions?

-A
 
R

Russ

New member
Aug 17, 2009
2
0
1
Lancaster, CA, United States
To clean your air breather wash with Dawn dish washing soap it is a powerful degreaser. I turn my air breather upside down in the sink and add dawn to breather foam and let it set . Then I take two tea kettles of boiling water to rinse once it looks clean I blow it out with compressed air. Now add oil to bowl reinstall air breather to tractor and install bowl to breather and now it is ready to run.
 
Stumpy

Stumpy

New member

Equipment
L175
Dec 1, 2011
848
3
0
NE Ohio
You've got so much room around there it shouldn't be hard to adapt a paper filter housing off another tractor. The worst part would be coupling them together in a manner that's air tight. Is the neck that bolts to the intake manifold part of the air cleaner or can that be removed? If the size is right you could remove or cut off that neck and use a section of intake hose from the donor tractor to join the new air box. Build some support brackets and you're be good to go.

May not be worth the trouble though unless it's really dusty where you are. Those oil old bath cleaners are reasonably efficient they're just messy to clean out and require the oil level checked occasionally.
 
R

Rust Addict

New member

Equipment
B6000E
Jan 2, 2010
83
0
0
Sidney, Maine, USA
LMFAO

Use diesel fuel and an a cleaning bucket, tail gate is a good work bench for this job. An old tooth brush and a screw driver, plan on getting dirty before anything gets clean, use an oil change tray and a coffee can to soak the filter and poor the diesel back inside the housing. The dirt come in the top under the rain hat, so that end is the where the caked up oil and dirt are hiding, the screen is in only held up by spring tension, just taps right out, and when you done cleaning the metal filter element insides, just taps right back in. The tool brush is for the under side of the hat, make sure the little holes are all open for max air flow.

I think you'll be surprised what a properly cleaned air filter can do for an old engine that may have never had the filter cleaned. Set a little fire in door yard to get rid of the tar you removed.
 

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