1501dt / L185 will not start

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PocketDonkeyRanch

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Having major problems starting my tractor. I had the injectors tested all is good. New fuel filter/new plugs/ bled system and everything seems as it should. Injection pump????

Thnx dan
 
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thepumpguysc

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Re: L176 will not start

And your SURE u have 12v TO the gp's??
I'd check compression before I spent money on a pump..
Its possible that the pumping plungers are worn.. but I'd do a compression check..
NO SENSE in getting a pump rebuilt if the engine needs to come down..
 
SidecarFlip

SidecarFlip

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Re: L176 will not start

Hours and was it maintained correctly?
 
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Russell King

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Re: L176 will not start

Do you know if the glow plugs are working?


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PocketDonkeyRanch

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Re: L176 will not start

thepumpguysc said:
And your SURE u have 12v TO the gp's??
I'd check compression before I spent money on a pump..
Its possible that the pumping plungers are worn.. but I'd do a compression check..
NO SENSE in getting a pump rebuilt if the engine needs to come down..
Click to expand...
I'm getting 9.5v to the plugs
 
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PocketDonkeyRanch

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Re: L176 will not start

Service Dept Vic said:
Dan, hard starts/no starts is seldom if ever the injection pump.

That piece of machinery is as precision as a fine watch, don't touch it!

That said, you should be loosening off the injector lines at the injectors and ensuring fuel is being pumped there. Next, remove the injectors and re-attach them to the injector lines. Crank over the engine and ensure they are cracking and spraying a good mist of diesel. You don't need to do this for more than a couple of seconds to see if the injectors are opening and spraying.

If you're not seeing a good spray it's time to either replace, or if you're confident in your repair ability, open the injectors up for a good cleaning.

I've seen plenty that were plugged up with crap on the inside and incapable of cracking open to spray.


Start with the obvious, the process of elimination for no start with a Kubota is real short....


1) Got Fuel? And is it getting to the injector tips and showing a full spray fan?

2) Got Heat? Are the glow plugs wired and working, pull one and test, are the they glowing red hot and capable of delivering combustion chamber pre-heat?

3) Got Air? Is the filter and air box clean and un-obstructed, is the air/engine shut off operating freely

4) Got Compression? If the first three points check out, it's time to pull a glow plug and do a compression test. Kubota diesels compress high, get the spec, don't assume a reading of 135 lbs seems fine. It aint!
Click to expand...

I will.do these steps and let you know. Thank you
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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An L1501 is closer to a L185

300 PSI is low

The valves are .008 cold.
Very unlikely the valves are too tight, but definitely worth checking anyways.
 
Last edited:
Dave_eng

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If as NIW says, your tractor is close to a L185, it will have series wired glow plugs.

This wiring style is often messed up by previous owners.

Post some photos of the GP side of your engine.

Dave
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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PocketDonkeyRanch said:
Would you think the engines are the same?? Ifnit ends up being rings what do I get??

Thnx Dan
Click to expand...
The difference is very slight.

L175, L1500 Z750
L185, ,L1501 Z751

Most all the parts will interchange from the two motors.

Dave and Dan,
Contrary to the diagram they are actually parallel wired, almost all kubotas are, because they are grounded to the block so there is no way to series wire them.
They share the same hot line in and the same ground out.
 
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PocketDonkeyRanch

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North Idaho Wolfman said:
The difference is very slight.

L175, L1500 Z750
L185, ,L1501 Z751

Most all the parts will interchange from the two motors.

Dave and Dan,
Contrary to the diagram they are actually parallel wired, almost all kubotas are, because they are grounded to the block so there is no way to series wire them.
They share the same hot line in and the same ground out.
Click to expand...
Yes this makes sense. The gp wiring is fine. I'm getting 10v to the plugs. The valves are also fine. Two were actually a bit loose so I tightened them to spec. Either way I still have 300psi at the inside cylender :(

Dan
 
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