Post Hole Digger - AUGERS

billrigsby · Nov 18, 2016

I am wondering if ALL augers for 3-point diggers have the same mounting size / fixture, etc.

I found a PHD ($300.00) that is probably too big with the 4' augers for a L1500?
Does any one know?
Also the 3-point pins are larger than would fit my L1500, but they can be changed.

It is an "off" brand and seems the company is out of business, that is all I know of that.... Farm Distributors Inc - Cincinnati, OH

I am not going to use the heck out of it, not running a fencing company,
just for home use.

He is willing to sell just the unit w/o augers, but I am concerned about finding 30" or 36" augers to fit?

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 18, 2016

The size of the pins tells you alot, like in this case it's a CAT2 three point, so no it's not sized for your CAT1 three point on your L1500, and no it's not just the pins are bigger all the dimensions are different.

You far better off getting a CAT1 PHD and be done with it.

Bulldog · Nov 18, 2016

I agree with Wolfman. That looks like a good phd but way to big. The width of the arm and the length of the upper link will be a problem.

Next, I may be wrong but I think you'll have a problem find a digger that fits your tractor and will take a 30" or 36" auger. Seems to me you'll need a much larger machine to handle something that big.

bucktail · Nov 18, 2016

Measure before you buy at least. If it's close, you can gain the thickness of the metal and the bump on the pin by turning the pins inward. If you still have the 12" long top link bracket that's on your facebook page pic, you may have top link issues no matter what you get for an auger.

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 19, 2016

bucktail said:
If you still have the 12" long top link bracket that's on your facebook page pic, you may have top link issues no matter what you get for an auger.

I forgot about that!

Yea a 3 point auger is not in your future!

billrigsby · Nov 19, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
I forgot about that!
Yea a 3 point auger is not in your future!

I am confused

I have seen threads where a PHD has been used on a L175 (same as the L1500)
This is the top link bracket shown in the parts book

This is the TSC PHD shown for Compact tractors , mounted on what I do not know.
It looks to have a short top link bracket.

And this is my top link bracket, are you saying it is too long?

Even though there are three sets of holes at the end and one close to the rear end?

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 19, 2016

Yes your top link bracket is wrong for a PHD.
The main tube is too big and wide to fit into the middle of your bracket.

In order for you to use a PHD you'll need to get a L175 top link holder.

billrigsby · Nov 19, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
In order for you to use a PHD you'll need to get a L175 top link holder.

OR, shorten the one I have?

Still a bit confused, this is the L1500 Top Link (in parts book), looks identical to the L175

Any idea what / where the one on my L1500 came from?

Why would you have a long one like this?

Changing to a shorter one, I may need to get longer top links I assume.

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 19, 2016

The brackets that you have on your L1500 were made exclusively for the rice patty rototiller that was made for it.

What are part you calling the top links?

billrigsby · Nov 19, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
The brackets that you have on your L1500 were made exclusively for the rice patty rototiller that was made for it. What are part you calling the top links?

Okay, thanks that makes sense.

The upper adjustable link
(#2-5 in the parts diagram)

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 19, 2016

Yes that is the center link.
Yes either get or alter your bracket to match to L175 bracket and get a longer standard Center link and all newer and standard 3 point implements will work on it.
As a Note: The PHD does not use any center link as the boom mounts directly to the center link brackets on the tractor.

bucktail · Nov 21, 2016

The current bracket won't exactly match the L175 bracket even if cut down, but it might still work. The L175 bracket mounts to the top 4 holes on the back of your trans housing. The 12" bracket mounts just below that. I had the same bracket that you had. I'm still looking for one from an L175. I'm currently running one from an L245 that had to be ground down in order to fit.

billrigsby · Dec 9, 2016

North Idaho Wolfman said:
Yes that is the center link.
Yes either get or alter your bracket to match to L175 bracket and get a longer standard Center link and all newer and standard 3 point implements will work on it.
As a Note: The PHD does not use any center link as the boom mounts directly to the center link brackets on the tractor.

Now that I have a PHD I am still a bit confused

A picture is.......
you know the rest;

What is the big difference of 10" or so of the mounting location of the main tube (support) on the rear end of the tractor, with 7 choices for the A-Frame mount (which I have to fabricate) (missing)?

Granted I have not reassembled the top link bracket and hooked this up yet,
but maybe this weekend?

North Idaho Wolfman · Dec 9, 2016

That's a ton of force multiplied on the transmission case (yes the back of the tractor is called the transmission, what most call the rear diff or rear end).
You will almost certainly break something!

Next is the drive shaft , because you are moving the pivot point behind the PTO it's possible that it could cause some serious binding issue.

Three point augers are tough enough to deal with, without shoving it out there another 10".

The force to lift an implement greatly increases when you move it farther out. it's possible your three point won't even be able to lift it out of a hole once you get it in there.

Maybe I'm missing something, but why are you so insistent on keeping something (that odd top link bracket) that was made for one implement, tiller, which you don't have, and does not really fit any other implement out there???

billrigsby · Dec 9, 2016

OWell thank you, as usual you are a voice of reason. I'm not insistent on keeping it, but it would just be one less thing to do around the place here if I did not have to build a new one, the factory one is not available (except at a ridiculous price from people like West Kentucky Tractor).

I guess I will get fabing since I have the metal and all winter to get it done, thanks again, better than tearing the hell out of the arse end of my tractor.

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Bush Hog 48 (SQ48R-3) "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
48" Harrow Rake
Rhino 60" Rear Blade
4 Seasons haul-all Dump Trailer
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks

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