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Excellent! Thanks for the follow up. I remember "walking home" from the field one day when a rogue stick managed to disconnect a safety switch that I was unaware of. Troublesome rascals they can be...

Yep, since you've bypassed all the other safety switches it's time to try that one. You might be able to do it from the seat by wiggling the H-L lever with the key on. Otherwise locate the safety switch under the fender and wedge it pressed in with a stick.

Glad you got it figured out and THANK YOU for posting a follow up. A huge benefit to a forum like this is being able to add a new tool/trick to our mental "tool box".

My largest gripe about the orange beasts....That air flow/radiator system needs some serious re-design. Seems like their design is a magnet for grass seeds/debris that need constant attention. I've never seen another brand of tractor that has this issue as widespread across its lines.

Seems about right. I know my 3010 runs just about dead center in the middle in this heat (at least it did last weekend). Once it hits what I call 3/4 it is time to pull it into some shade and clear the seeds/weeds/dirt out of the radiator screen. In looking at your pic, I wouldn't let it get to...

Clean fuel and new fuel filter. Also- check the condition of the air filter and housing. Sitting that long could have attracted any number of critters that would restrict the air flow to the engine.

Bad valve spring? Another office had one that overheated and scalded piston/cylinder. During rebuild it was discovered to have a bad exhaust valve spring on that cylinder. Don't know if the overheating weakened the spring or the weakened spring triggered the overheated cylinder. I do recall it...

I'm with Burtonbr on this one. Sounds like a safety switch somewhere. PTO, Seat, neutral, clutch (if present) etc...

The "short version" is yes, you can do that. My suspicion is that the 30amp plug from your generator isn't going to carry the load but hey...nothing ventured, nothing gained. The two II terminals are your hot legs and the 0 is your neutral leg. You will need both a male (that matches your twist...

I agree, sounds like you still have air in the system/line or a cracked/punctured line that is allowing it to suck air. Sometimes you can "partially" pressure the tank with compressed air while the filter inlet line is cracked open. Continue with the pressure until you get a solid stream of fuel...

Sounds like a load of bad fuel in the right tank. Missing,sputtering and dieing all point to bad fuel since you have no issue on the left tank. Drain the right tank and replace the fuel. I'm "guessing" water contamination....

I would start with the engine RPM running a little faster than idle. Sounds to me like it just can't maintain the RPM with the sudden load (fuel issue). Could be an issue with the governor not throttling up under load as it should. The key diagnostic to me was where the OP stated they could...

Oops! Similar issue for the HST folks... My father and I have both experienced this at different times. L3010- piece of brush gets pushed up and bends the foot pedal linkage under the tractor. Foot feed gets jammed into the forward or reverse position and there is NO stopping. In my case it was...

Did you disconnect/reconnect the quick couplers for the loader? They are located directly under the front loader valve and are used when dismounting the loader from the tractor. Just a quick disconnect and then reconnect. The one time I had issues with the 3pt as you describe that was the...

Did the 3pt go all the way down and just won't lift? Not sure what (if any) affect adding the ports at the back did but the first thing to double check is the quick connect hoses under the front loader. Just undo and then reconnect....see if that fixes it. Reply back with results.

For a "will not spin at all", my first look is the chassis to ground circuit as previously explained. Easy bench test is to use jumper cables from the negative terminal to iron on the engine. For a "will spin fine but won't start" I'm thinking electrical and fuel shut off circuit. Both...

Silly question but have you checked the PTO running different implements (brush hog etc..) to ensure the problem isn't in the tiller gearbox?

Mine is a short linkage under the pedal that has adjuster nuts on both ends and is about 4-6 inches long. View from underneath the floor deck while manipulating the pedal with your hand. This part seems prone to "catch" limbs/brush and get bent. Easy removal and hammer back into...

The Front End Loader (FEL) valve is the lever used to raise/lower/tilt your bucket. Should be several hoses (three I think) that all use quick connect couplers. These couplers will be located below the valve and are used to aid in removing the FEL from the tractor. Double check these couplers...

Manual will tell you the pedal creep is a factory tech adjustment but it's really easy to adjust. With the engine off of course....Locate the adjuster rod by operating the pedal and viewing from under the tractor. Loosen the linkage lock nut and give her a twist....one way makes it worse, one...