Search results

The governor is the problem - the reefer engine ran at one speed and one speed only. Problem is I think you have to change more than springs (but I am no expert). @North Idaho Wolfman or @whitetiger should be along to give you proper guidance.

The ISO VG 32 and 46 are the viscosity of the fluid. 32 is thinner than the 46. They can certainly be mixed but you will end up with something odd (not 32 and not 46). There are charts to show you the viscosity compared to other fluids you may understand better (like motor oil). Use the 32...

See if it is the starter. Sometimes the bendix gear gets jammed up and doesn’t engage properly. They can make a heck of a noise. If starter is easy to remove just remove it and look at it. You can also just “jump it” from battery cable to the solenoid spade to see if it makes a racket...

Staying away from post hole diggers is ALWAYS good advice!

Not that it would resolve the problem but you can put it in gear before starting the engine to avoid the grinding of the gears. On my tractor you have to wait a few seconds in neutral to lessen any grinding into a new gear. It still grinds a little bit due to having no synchronizing rings on...

@Paul Allwood I don’t see how mounting the hydraulic cylinder where you indicated would work. I believe it is supposed to be mounted transverse to the direction of travel. As I see it, you need to remove these two rods on the existing steering system. The steering cylinder should replace...

Those were designed (mostly) for pull type implements that usually had a clevis style hitch as shown here. You can see why that design of drawbar worked well for its intended use.

@Smokey160 Please verify a couple of things. 1) the oring in post #20 picture is the new o-ring and after you had clamped it down and ran tractor and there was still a leak. 2) The tractor was fine and then a “sudden” leak started AND you verified the leak is from this joint, not some point...

@Rober88 If this is really some other person’s tractor then I suggest you let them decide what the repair is. Since you are in Canada then you are probably in the slack period for the tractor use unless it is used for snow removal. Since it is aluminum (per the photo you provided and @Hugo...

Not to be a Debbie Downer but if you have never attempted to remove a broken off bolt before then that is NOT the place to start. But you can probably ask a competent friend to help you get it out. The problems with that are it is in cast iron, the wall thickness you are working with is fairly...

Here is one way to see the implements that fit your tractor model (used L3450 as the model) go to this website https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ agree to the terms search tractor model (L3450) Select the appropriate model on the left side you should see the words “parts” and “option...

Good attempt at resolving the error but you really got messed around by both being typographical errors that “were close” in both cases. I would ASSUME that the l/minute is correct since Japan is ”fully SI”. But good luck in your quest. @TheOldHokie may have the information handy???

Don’t use Safari, try Duck Duck Go or similar “private” browser.

You might want to look at three point mounted dirt scoops instead of the FEL. That is what was used before FELs were developed. Like this example: https://www.northerntool.com/products/king-kutter-reversible-dirt-scoop-30in-model-ds-30-256079

the valve in question seems to be for a sprayer not any hydraulic system. That is why there seems to be less concern with using tape. BUT (and as PeeWee Herman said - everyone has a big BUT…) on a plastic fitting I don’t use tape nor do I use a teflon based thread sealant. Both can lead to...

I am agreeing with @North Idaho Wolfman on the “I don’t see a crack”! I also thought what @TheOldHokie thinks is suspected crack but that just looks like pooled oil with light reflecting off it now. I don’t think the size of the bolts and the (probably aluminum) material they thread into have...

Contact this salvage yard for potential purchase of used loader https://mossycreekoutdoors.com/

Look at all the linkages (underneath the rubber boot) and you might see some loose nuts or worn joints. Look at Kubota USA dot com illustrated parts lists and search on the loader model for the assembly of the valve and linkage. I imagine something is just loose due to the relative newness of...

I don’t see quick couplers on those lines. Do you @North Idaho Wolfman still stand by your statement above? I personally agree that even if the lines are open that to just dry them off is enough. They are pointed downward so the water in the bag is as far into the lines as the water could...

Complete guess here but I think that gear #150 above is driven by gear #110 on shaft #80. Perhaps that gear #110 or shaft #80 were stripped out at their interface and that is causing the problems???