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Because you never By-Pass the Safety Switch until you remove the ROPS? btw, I voted for joe but forgot he wasn't on the ballot...........

Just curious, with an L2501, increasing the hyd pressure 250 psi would translate to how many extra pounds lifting capacity? Anyone have an idea?

When it comes to compression keep in mind those new rings aren't broken in and seated yet so 300 psi is a good starting point.

Cylinder #3 had the most rust and corrosion around the valve seat area. Did you use the valve grinding compound to lap in the valves? If you had, you would have most likely discovered the valve sealing area was compromised and one possible cause for low compression in that cylinder.

Joe, I would not recommend re-using the old bearings otherwise your good block might get a hole knocked in the side of it. You need to get new bearings and check the clearance with Plastigage to make sure they are within specs.

That homemade, Ford differential auger, takes 90w gear lube. Did you ever check to see if there was any gear oil in it? The angle of the PTO shaft is most likely also creating a bind.

Joe, you need to get some valve lapping compound and a valve lapping stick to lap in the valves. This is the way you can check the sealing area on the valves and the valve seats to see if there are any issues. You put the grinding compound on the valve sealing area and rotate the valve back +...

When it comes to those wrist pin bushings you're going to need at least a 20 ton hydraulic press and the correct bushing driver. Your best bet may be to take them to the machine shop and let them change them.

I'll say one thing Joe: You've got more Ambition then All the Naysayers on this forum combined!

If the bendix drive was frozen and the battery hooked up backwards this would cause the starter to run backwards. I'd pull the starter, check the bendix, and test run it off the tractor.

I've got a 5' brush hog behind mine, which has 19 hp pto and have never run into an issue mowing our meadow.

That's it in a nut shell! Where there's a Will there's a Way! Everybody knows we learn by doing and Joe is a great example of doing the best he can under the circumstances.

Once your neighbor sees all the work you're getting done around your property he'll probably be inviting you over to help out on his........lol

You're doing a nice job but you might reconsider reusing that head gasket. It's never a good idea to try to reuse a head gasket.

It was a sub contract company doing work for the state and they needed a way to dispose of the millings they were generating.

I did my parking lot with "Millings" as they call them in this neck of the woods. Rolled + pack it after spreading them and they are holding up great. The next best thing to Asphalt and Free. The best pat is that it doesn't take on water link modified. No mud holes and nearly no puddling.

I don't know about the L2502 but I have an L2501 with hydrostat trans. I only mow our meadow in the fall or spring so the grass is usually tall and overgrown. I've had no issues with bog down in Med range with a 5' brush hog or 5' finish mower.

Anytime you have metallic looking oil in a transmission its internal damage of some kind.

I also agree that you shouldn't cut corners on the gaskets. You get what you pay for and sometimes you get more then you bargained for with cheap parts like a return visit to tearing it back apart because they haven't held up well.

I commend your efforts! Where there's a Will there's a Way! You could get some valve lapping compound and a lapping stick to lap the valves yourself. That will show you how much of the area on the valve is sealing and also the sealing area on the valve seat in the head. By the looks of things...