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Not at all (of course I only moved at crawl speed). With the table lowered all the way and the fact that it was bolted to a 200# plate the center of mass was comfortably low. This was a *much* easier move than my 800# mill a couple years ago:

It's on a 10A fuse but in my experience is good for much less. Something about that line was causing mine to blow that 10A fuse repeatedly even with only a ~3A load, so I had to run a new line from the battery.

interesting idea, I'll think about that. The rat's nest will go away anyway because I need to put it on a VFD (3ph motor, no 3ph power in the shop).

or when you hit a rock big enough, make it part of the system. a 4' deep post hole isn't gonna provide more support than a rock that's too big to dig out. I have one deck post footer that stopped at about 2' deep on solid ledge.

I bought this ~1978 Powermatic drill press on craigslist (a disused tool room item from a local manufacturing company). They had mounted it to a 3/4" (!) steel base plate with fork pockets to make it easier to move about their factory - this also made it easy to get off my trailer and into the...

I think you want something called a "drainage emitter". Hopefully you can find one big enough to handle that large flow.

on my lx3310 there is an accessory circuit there but I've found it useless. I tried to use it to power my snowblower chute rotator and it continually blew the fuse so I ran a new dedicated circuit. If your seeder needs more than a couple amps I suggest you give it a home run.

I believe you! If I had the space I would have built (I went so far as to model one up and price the cut parts) or bought a grapple, but I am severely limited on level ground. My compromise is working for me for now (and I don't have to move rocks). The upside is I can move logs and the pallet...

rather than the grapple, I opted to build a thumb for my pallet forks. Works well for me (my logs tend to be 12" dia or less) and it's not one more implement to find storage for.

I've only had to do this once, and I learned to either put a rag over the male connector before whacking it or else be *really* mindful of which way it's pointed because the fluid sprays out pretty impressively.

before I got my driveway paved, I fabbed up a center skid for my 64" 3PH blower. That helped a lot to keep the blower from digging into the driveway and throwing dirt & gravel.

this is a much better solution anyway - incandescent bulbs burn out frequently, these last: linky

somebody oughta say it: this is the single most frequent thread on the forum. Wouldn't take much searching to find the last 10 discussions...

Setting aside whether I actually need them or not, I bought rear tire chains for my LX. I unboxed one and put it on for a test fit and discovered: 1) it looks like I'll have to keep my wheel spacers on for the winter (I usually take them off), else the chains appear they wouldn't clear the...

Oops, lost track of the details.

Neat's Foot Oil is the old standby, but when I got my (even older - 1937) SB lathe last year I had to give up on the old leather belt and order a new one. I opted for a modern belt. You can find resources by searching this forum...

Really? That's about 1/3 the price of what I saw when shopping this week.

I'm at 7,000' and use my LX with a rear blower and the bucket. I've wanted chains only once - last spring we got 3' of spring cement and I was unable to clear my neighbor's driveway because it was too steep and they had not done any clearing mid-storm - my tractor just couldn't push the blower...

15kW is just about 20hp at 100% efficient conversion. So factor in mechanical and electrical losses and you need maybe 25hp output from the engine?

the amount of load pulling on the top link is a function of the attachment weight and how far out the center of mass lies. So a mower creates a longer moment arm than a ballast box of the same weight, pulling harder on the top link. I don't have a backhoe so I am not sure how the stabilizer...