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Wow. Thanks. This forum is full of great people. I really appreciate this.

I just found this out today. First chance to give it a real inspection. I had thought that the leak was coming from one of the connections on the back side, but it is coming from the o-ring seals within the hydraulic block and I did notice the same thing about the cap vs. block in the owners...

Update: I found the leak. It's on the back side of 060 in this diagram: It's probably one of the 0-rings (070) which I plan to order. BUT - - in the meantime, Does anyone know the torque specs of the 12mm bolts that hold the block on (seen below) ? Those would be 4 12mm bolts that hold on...

Fairly certain. ...But you guys DID convince me to give it a going over before paying big $$$ to have it transported for warranty repair. I have a few weeks where it's no loss if it's out of commission, so I'm going to take another look.

I did. They're on very tight. I put a large crescent wrench on them and pushed to the point that I was afraid of breaking something. Might try again with a socket and torque wrench. I would have no problem taking it apart if it wasn't under warranty. But I hate screwing with things when...

I tried it. They're on very tight. I might try again with a torque wrench.

ANSWER: Both. (found the answer in the owner's manual diagrams) The junction block comes plumbed from the factory with connectors in back. When adding a FEL, the dealer plumbs hoses into the front side. Mine is leaking from the back so it seems like the problem occurred at the factory.

Good point, but I doubt it. The paint on that junction block is perfectly in tact.

You make a lot of assumptions and add very little value.

This might be the answer. When the regen light came on, I was in the process of removing the loader, so rather than shut it down, I put on the parking brake, raised the RPM and went inside for a Pepsi thinking it would be done when I came back out. It wasn't so I just let it run. If I had...

That would be well and good if it wasn't currently LEAKING out of my tractor through no fault of my own. It's like watching dollar bills drip out onto my fields and lawn. It's one thing to pay a bit more when things go right, but... But that's really not the point of my question. My point is...

Just paid about $70 for a 2.5 gallon jug. That's about $30 / gallon. Seems ridiculous. I have no doubt that my new L3901 NEEDS genuine Kubota super UDT2, and I won't try to save a few bucks and ruin the thing, but I really don't understand why they couldn't engineer the thing to use basic...

My L3901 went into it's second regen cycle at about 35 hours. It took 50 minutes after I brought the RPM up to where it liked it. Last regen only took about 15 minutes. Is this normal? If not, what could be wrong?

After only 30 hours, my L3901 developed a leak at the junction block just forward of the hydraulic filter under the right side of the tractor. This is the block that feeds hoses up to the FEL quick connect. Is that something that the dealer assembled, or was it assembled at the factory? I ask...

Hi all, Please forgive me if this has been discussed - I really did search before posting! I need a trailer for my L3901 with LA525 loader. I won't be transporting it with any implements (except for the loader) It does have water filled R4 tires. I will be towing it with a 2016 Toyota...

Just did a search on the electronic version of the owner's manual. Lots of RPM info about the DPF regen process, but not much else. The only relevant mention is that warmup should be at 50% of rated RPM so, 1,350 for L3901 with HST. I suppose experience will dictate the rest.

I stand corrected. With a 9" auger.

New here (hello everyone)... AND new L3901 owner. Coming off of an old JD 1020 that I used almost exclusively to bush hog, I'm a bit unclear as to the RPM I should use for each job on the L3901 For example what RPM should I use for: Idle? Warmup? Loader Work? Bush Hog (I think I'm safe at...