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great..so I now have 'vintage' memories...... thanks.....

update: asked Mozilla about it, they said to only delete the OTT 'cookie', not ALL cookies. Did that yesterday afternoon and so far...I'm STILL logged in. They thought the cookie ( data for OTT ) was corrupted 'some how'. When I go to OTT and login, a new 'cookie' is created. So problem seems to...

I've used a 'regular' carryall for years as a 'programmable ballast box for 2.5 decades I have 2 skids with weight on them, one light , one heavy. WHEN needed, backup to 'light' one for loadering lots of mulch and compost, use the 'heavy' one when loadering dirt and stones. Hauling a HEAVY...

Had I known my neighbour was going to buy a B2601 with BH, I'd have bought a B2601 and not eh BX23S 7 years ago. We'd share attachments....

I'm using Firefox, settings are the same as before. clearing 'history' does NOT 'log' me off as I'm still here... might be a 'timed' thing and no other sites are affected. so came in as combined JAMMED.... and I'm logged out....again...

... past 2-3 days ,noticed that this site seems to automatically log me of, even though I've checked 'keep me logged in' box.... have checked other websites and I'm always 'there'.... kinda curious as to why this is happening...... Jay

A and B are the same , 3 3/4", maybe a tad smaller......

hmm....Kubota may say not to use it with 'float' valves , is that if the draft linkage is not adjusted properly, the implement could move the linkage far enough to engage 'float' ?

how much does the seed weigh ? the drill's 1450# is probably close to the LIMIT the tractor can lift so adding 300# of seed more than maxes out the lifting ability.

plow ! the dirt kind, to flip sod over and make neat ,tidy furrows...... blade !! to get a consistent level of material...

After you install door insulation, be sure to retension the spring .

ROPS is designed to only work when fully up and pinned, according to the warning labels. Also required to have seatbelt on. My seatbelt is store away with OEM upper ROPS section. Neither of my '67 Stangs had roll bars, nor did 4 of my CJ-5s so I decided my timid tractor didn't need one. After...

I had E78 series Suburbanite snowtires on rears with 4 pcs of '4" billets' in the wheel wells...never got stuck in snow !

yes, could use a good quality urethane or epoxy.. I just have lost of thin SS laying about 'looking for a good home'.....

You could just 'adhere' a thin stainless steel 'band' to the blower..

thanks, hard to tell(old eyes....) A LOT of paint on it !!

I still prefer the Allis-Chalmers 'Snap-Coupler' system on my D-14s. Hands down far better.

Kinda sounds like you're putting the top link on first and THEN the lower arms ? I've always done... right lower arm,PTO shaft( if needed) , lower left arm, the the top link. Having both tractor and implements on level ground is critical for EASY installs.

It's probably a 'legal/safety ' issue so can't sell just the top section.My BX23s wouldn't fit into the 7' 'normal' door height with the ROPS up....royal PITA.. I removed the top section and welded up my own 'sun shade' section about 4-5 years ago. Easily get in and out with less than an inch...

speaking of grease... is that a Zerk on top of the worm/gear box that's never been greased ?