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yes, pull the pins... one at a time and use a section of broom handle as a 'substitute' pin.

man, just wait until 'they' mandate 'driver's seat occupied' switches in cars and you eat 1/2 can of beans for lunch....

yes, I'm confused, though being 'north of 70' might explain some of that....

At that price, I'd buy it JUST for the tractor/tiller combo.Being 'north' of 70, I don't use the 3 walkbehind tillers in the tractor shed anymore. Have a 5' SS tiller on the D-14 to do the acre+- around here. Will be downsizing the gardens, so a 4' on the BX would be very nice. That's just me...

since it's almost 30 years old, I suspect the linkages between pedal and HST are worn and need adjustment. www.kubotabooks.com may have owner and/or WorkShopManual ?

I did what fedup said with my forklift 5-6 years ago, never had a problem since.

hmm... what was the PTO powering ? I've never run the PTO on my BX23S in 7+ years, would have to look at what's inside to see how the brake works. Others will know but I'm wondering how it slows down very heavy loads ( like a wood chipper or bush hog )

hmm, wonder how often anyone here changes the differential oil in their pickup trucks ?

I never did 'direct burial' of lines ( water, electrons, security,phone ) ,ALWAYS used 4" conduit( weeping tile without holes ). Odds are you can't 'pinpoint' where the leak is, so you'll dig, dig, dig some more.....huge amount and money wasted, more than the cost of 4" conduit. It's one of...

The case appears to be aluminum, so soft wire brushes work well. You need to clean all the 'buildup' around the diodes and the 'studs'. I'd take it all apart, replace all the screws and insulating washers. Check each diode to be sure it's good. Then, after spending 1/2 day at that, go into my...

wow that's neat !! late 60's 'tech' !! 2 TO-66case(?) power diodes by the look of it. A LOT of corrosion that needs to be addressed. Looks like the cases of the diode are NOT supposed to be grounded( touching the case) so a real good cleaning is in order along with checking with ohmmeter...

maybe under the dash ? small aluminum box with 'fins' and a5 or 6 pole connection on it. It needs to have a GOOD ground for it to work. BTW it's actually a 'rectifier-regulator'. Converting AC from the dynamo into a 'regulated' DC voltage that recharges the battery and powers lights, etc. AS...

I just have an empty GE case.... tubes are worth serious coins !!! Wished I'd kept the tube tester, oh well... still have tube radios and amplifiers 'downstairs'... next to a box of PCBs with Intel 8008 microcomputers on them.

I don't bother answering the phone anymore(no cell, just a VOIP version). 3 rings, 'please leave a message'. It's very, very rare someone actually leaves a message. If they do , I call back within the hour.

re #9, yes there were B batteries.. used in vacuum tubed radios.... I Know, cause I'm that odl I used to build them.

1st besure tractor is in NEUTRAL.....now if you carefully, connect a spare battery ,using jumper cables , -ve say on that lower mounting bolt, and the +ve on the orange pointed lug, when you press the jumper clamp onto the batter the starter should spin. if it does , the starter is...

hmm, that picture is the 'before' shot, I assume and you have 4 individual hoses to connect now ? That's what I did when the 'white' one leaked. The hose connects to a flat face fitting that goes into it's 'mate' on the 'block'. It'd be nice to see the current configuration you have.

hmm, how old are all the battery cables ?

Be sure ALL axles have brakes AND have backup lights installed.

1st.....If the local dealer IS a Kubota dealer, they're supposed to service Kubota ! 2nd, any chance the right brake is slightly on ?