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I've found the same thing. Black seems to last longest, so I'll use different numbers of zip ties to differentiate. I like these! I'll have to keep them in mind.

For reference, Danuser also makes a 21 inch extension. 7 inch 6080G 14 inch 6204G 21 inch 6207G

Awesome! They're $150 cheaper too (for both). They should be a universal size? It only shows 1 hole in the picture, can't tell if there's a second 90* hole you can't see. I'm guessing it's there. I don't like that they come with roll pins, I'll have to stick bolts in there. Oil Or China...

I'm looking for extensions for my SA10 Auger. 2 Inch round drive. I found the Land Pride 7 (317-040A) and 14 (317-041A) inch extensions. I also found a lot of Hex 2.56 inch 2 9/16 inch Plus a lot of different adapters. I couldn't find any other straight 2 inch round extensions. Nothing...

Thanks! I don't have room to store them all separately. The only "issue" is it requires some muscle as I have to lift the inner 2 into their respective spaces.

This is my thread on installing pin on pallet forks to a SSQA loader. This should help if the pin locations are the same. However, the pin on forks I used were also for an 80 series loader, not a 70 series. Keep that in mind...

I believe the 70 and 80 series loaders have the same pin locations but I can't verify. IF they are the same, the "difference" is in the pins and how they attach. Some/most of the 80 series loaders have a attached stand that effects how the pins are shaped/mounted. IF the pin locations are the...

I was trying to figure a way to store all of my buckets out of the rain. This worked out pretty good!

Ouch, that's the worst option. If it was stuck in the "ears" it would be easier to drill out. If you want it out you may have to drill both ends completely away (in the ears), so you can pull the arm out and drill out the rest. You may be able to get it out with a press, but it sounds like it...

I'm not familiar with the setup on your tractor, but a couple of things -I assume the arm moves? -I'm also assuming there are no clips or anything holding it in, wouldn't be the first time... -If the arm moves, the pin is only frozen on either the ear(s) or the cylinder/arm itself. -If you can...

I don't think moisture will be much of a factor if it's been sitting in Arizona.... I don't think I've owned mine 8 full months yet and I've already got 160+ hours on it. Garage kept and all of course. It's no fun if you don't get to use it!

Someone on here was complaining about lynch pins popping off; I thought they were nuts. Then I had one knocked off my tractor soon afterwards. I learned my lesson there.... Safety wire is great, but I think a bolt is your best bet. I prefer grade 8 over stainless due to it's propensity to gall...

That was in the works for a little while at least. When I needed special pins for my pin on pallet forks a few months ago they had already bought Ai2. I believe the original owner wanted to retire? He may be involved still in some degree? My understanding was that the new owners were trying to...

Not with that tool.:) I'll have to dig around the sides first, then underneath.

Interesting.... I don't think my little tiny baby tractor has the oomph to dig with that though.

It's hard to learn if you don't question things. ;) I think that's somewhat of a general setup for mobile hydraulic equipment. You need a way to increase engine speed without moving the vehicle. There are other ways to do it, this is how it's done on these.

I was using a stump bucket to dig/rip roots out. So the loader was being stressed in the direction(s) it's designed for, up/down. Unless I'm mistaken, you slid yours into the side of a tree. Which means the loader impacted something large and heavy on the side of the arm, with the weight of the...

This The throttle controls engine RPM. The HST pedal allows you to use engine RPM up to the limit you've selected.

The joint may have been stronger; a weld of that quality would probably still have cracked. A hole that large in the loader boom may compromise it's strength though. And the boom is probably more important than the crossmember joint. Considering how absurdly thin the joining metal actually was...

You seem very nonchalant about that.... This was my first thought when I read this.