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Here's a tip for ya: Do NOT check that link at oh-dark-thirty. Laughing until the tears come tends to wake up the Mrs.......

@skeets - Exactly. I see the way some kids talk to their parents and still cringe. It never even occurred to me to back-talk my parents. Of course, I was raised in the 50's and 60's before the Nanny State became a thing.

I'll check mine and take a picture of full-left travel. Cab model, but no 3rd function. Lever in neutral position, steering wheel in lowest position. Distance from knob to wheel and knob to window. Knob to wheel, full curl position. Knob to window, full dump position.

Ya gotta be careful around them vicious Akitas...

I have that exact same model. Just replaced the tensioning stays on the East end "T" after the arborist dropped most of a Maple tree on it. Still works as good as new!

Surplus Center is your friend. I did exactly that on mine.

I suspect that'd be a wash. The important thing is to get GOOD lynch pins (another name for what you describe). "Good" is determined by the strength of the spring latch. Tractor Supply sells two grades and the cheap one - unsurprisingly - is junk with a weak spring that pops open if you look...

It's a mousetery for sure...:p

Yup, on a toboggan, behind a '63 Mercury Comet. Stopping was a thrill...

True, but that's why I retained the option of putting a hitch back on it. For small patch jobs like shown (filling in after removing a tree and stump) the extra weight outweighs (see what I did there?) maneuverability. Also, @ The Evil Twin, it never occurred to me to roll in forward, MUCH...

I have a pull-behind lawn roller I made out of a 100# propane tank. It's okay, but even full of water, there's not a lot of weight there. I got to thinking (which rarely ends well...:LOL: ) that if I mounted it to a QA plate, I could use the weight of the tractor. I chose to bolt it to the...

I've had the same problem with motorcycles for years. The first thing I did with pretty much every bike I bought was to replace the handlebars, add spacers to the mounts to move them up and forward, put heavier springs in the front forks (and in some cases re-valve them completely) and heavier...

I'd be first in line to buy one. I've had my B2650 for 9 years now and I love it, but the treadle is a huge pain in the derriere.

A HUGE factor in my decision to go with a B2650 was the minimal electronics and emission crapola. Only thing I'd have done differently is order it with the second rear remote and a 3rd function on the loader instead of cheaping out and fighting with it later.

I had exactly the opposite experience. Got the decimal point one place to the left... I thought that was an awfully good price...

Looking forward to it!

Speaking for myself (and I suspect, others...) I'm gonna need some pictures of that project!

Make raising teenagers worth it, doesn't it? :p My great-grands are 6, 10 and 13 (dang, I'm old...) and a lot of fun to be around. Wears me out tho...

Good point. If I mount the roller towards the bottom of the QA plate, I wouldn't have extend the cylinders all the way.

Bear in mind that's a rough sketch. I'd shorten the arms and gusset them. Another question is, should I position the roller near the bottom of the plate, or in the middle?