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I'm not the greatest of welders, and I weld better than that on a bad day.

The fuel solenoid should be as simple as unscrewing the old and screwing in the new one, just don't over tighten it. They call that switch that you posted the starter switch. I do believe the switch / sensor you need to look at would be here, #180 BTW #170 is the hydraulic temp switch/sensor.

Sounds like you have a bad Quick disconnect. I take it on the hose end one is male one is female right? You will need to either get a spare set of Quick disconnects or you will need to swap the hoses to see if it will open and not close. easiest if you can do it at the cylinder.

Yea all of that whole area, family and situation stinks of a huge scam / fraud!

Very unlikely the starter! Very likely battery cables, battery cable connections (either cable, either end) or battery.

Get a Seaboard / Shipping container to store it in.

Put the hair pin on it and then take pictures.

The WSM (aka Service Manual) will give you the stock wiring. You should be able to tell the difference between stock wiring and add on wiring just looking at it. Picture of those locations where they join with wiring colors noted will help me to help you eliminate it. It could be a crank defeat...

B7100 NEVER came stock with 9.5 x 16 only 8 x 16 You can switch to 9.5 x 16 but you will have to change the front tire size and I'm not sure what size that would be. It's all based on Rolling circumference of the tires. And different brands of tires of the same size can have a different RC numbers.

Ok, Am I the only one that thinks this stinks to high heaven???? Brothers doing the same things, and there is no connection? Come on this smells like the biggest scam ever! I bet they follow the same model, of the pay me now and we'll get you your implement when we get around to it!

They do call themselves CALMFG.com

First line of attack: KTAC Insurance , as they will repair it 100% right for $250. Second line of attack: Heli coil or time-sert both will do the job. No tubes or pipes in either side at all, it's just a cavity. Now if you have it repaired by a local guy, he just can not drill into the back of...

I'll stick with my diagnosis that it has some issue with the input shaft on the HST. I've never heard one make that exact noise, but it fits in with where I think the issue is and would explain the power loss too, as a bad bearing in there will cause a huge HST input power loss.

I have sent you the WSM it will have all the wiring colors on the Wiring diagram page. Elküldtem neked a WSM-et, amelyen az összes bekötési szín megtalálható a Bekötési rajz oldalon

Your video was enlightening! You likely have something wrong with the control valve. Or more likely you have something wrong with the feedback linkage, like maybe a sheared roll pin on the front. I say this because of the amount of throw that your doing with the control lever. I'm 90% certain...

Hair pin on the outside of the plate? Couple more pic's from wider and different angles might help too.

Fire from just diesel fuel leak is really rare, but add some debris then it becomes a real concern. If fuel is leaking out between the body of the solenoid and the wire, then yes the solenoid is bad and will need to be replaced. Here is one at the best price I can find, and it has the O-ring...

The three point is going to keep doing what it's doing if you don't adjust the feedback linkage! I'm really having a hard time understanding why you are not simply properly adjusting the linkage??? Did I miss where you adjusted it?

3RD the need to know which variant your working with.

Most likely Switch or wiring issue: If you don't have the WSM to help chase / check wiring and switch, just ask.