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Overrated is a certain green-brand's "auto connect". Particularly that 4-spline auto-connect PTO. Ours rattled like crazy from new, and finally we just went old-school and put in a regular manual connect shaft.

"Just putting it back where it came from!" :rolleyes: (Actually knew people who thought and did that; they weren't entirely wrong but that's not entirely how it works either...) For the oil dumped on the OP's property, whoever did this could've gotten it recycled honestly, for free, for less...

A certain green-and-yellow brand has plants in Wisconsin and Georgia. What percentage of the produced machines are made versus assembled in these plants I couldn't tell you. For the labeling issue, IMO the fine here is steep and anyone actually affected won't see a penny... but stuff does need...

M9000 here, and only real regret is it has the sync shuttle. Has been a very good machine otherwise. If I could do it again, it'd be another M9000 but this time new and with the hydraulic shuttle.

Because it needs to work during that once or twice a season. :) Family had a certain yellow-and-white brand with a front mount snowblower, and the gearbox for the auger blew apart after literally 30 seconds. Yes it was covered under warranty but didn't help when the drive was under two feet of...

If you think Kubota is bad, try a certain green brand which loves to use that double-sided V belt on their mower decks. Yes there are will-fit equivalents on the Internet. And after trying one you'll end up at the dealer getting the OE belt anyway. 💸:rolleyes:

Hmm, by that metric December 2025 might be an interesting time to buy for folks who can wait. In this area, as of April this year CUTs much less front end loaders (of any make) were unheard of, with 1-year order time and no price guarantee. Now they're in regular stock! Kinda shocking how...

Second going with the OE Kubota pump. AND from a reputable supplier. Avoid the random Internet merchants who may or may not have an actual Kubota pump in the box!

Think email surveys are bad? Fail is "Well I was satisfied until you called me at dinner!" While it's good to see them following up on large purchases like a tractor, if "Please leave me alone" is the answer they should leave it at that.

In this area you'll see 50+ y/o tractors still running with their original hydraulic and steering hoses. And on the other extreme, a local recently bought a grapple attachment off the Internet, and the Chinesium hoses were leaking within a week. So as others advised, monitor the ones you have...

Find the factory PSI spec and set it there. The engineers had good reason for picking whatever the pressure is. Sure some parts can likely handle a ton more PSI no problem, but remember your tractor is a system and something's going to get overloaded.

Was leaning towards the T-6 5W40, thank you for confirming.

Ok, think I got it figured out. Per the source, API.org, and if I'm reading it correctly: • Service categories CD, CE, and CF are long obsolete. • CH-4 and CI-4 are designated replacements. • What this machine CAN'T use is FA-4. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. :) Was assuming this...

I'll run Olive Oyl if that meets the spec! (Maybe some spinach for more power?) Seriously though, I've heard some late-spec oils shouldn't be used in the older diesels, and don't want to mess up here. Will run the Kubota stuff if I need to, but unlike say the UDT2 I doubt there's anything...

Wondering if folks could recommend an engine oil for this besides Kubota's own? Per the owner's manual this calls for API CD, CE, or CF in 10W30 or 10W40. The only oil I'm finding in CF is Shell Rotella T1, which is a straight weight. Definitely need a multiweight here due to climate/winter.

Back in the day, a neighbor had a tired old IH, where they literally put a bucket under the crankcase breather to catch the oil blowby! So as others have posted, the separator is a little classier version of the bucket. It sends the breather mist back to the oil pan, and the fumes to the...

We're in a climate where block heaters tend to be plugged in for 3-4 months straight, and after several years of that they can degrade and fail. Usually they'll start tripping ground faults; open circuits are rare but do happen. Also why I like the fancy cords with lighted ends for block...

Had replaced these on an X900 a few years ago, and went with Kubota OE. NOT cheap, but haven't had problems with them either.

Coming from the medium-duty construction equipment world, a ~$25,000 axle rebuild buys a lot of the correct oil... Workplace has an assortment of a certain machine. All are the same make and size, but are different ages/revisions. Each one uses different hydraulic, transmission, and axle...

Is there fluid in the rear tires? Have seen it where the fluid will start going around with the tire at road speed (versus the "air pocket" staying on top), and cause all sort of stuff like a side/side wobble or what feels like an egg-shaped tire. Also have heard (never seen firsthand) stories...