meanjean
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  • Jean, I got your e-mail but I have been super busy and have not yet got the manual in to the mail. I will try to do it in the next couple weeks. Using the PTO almost all equipment is designed and built for 540 rpm and that is PTo gear 1 on your tractor. Using a different gear could possible lead to early failure of the gearbox on the implement. So that being said I do not think you hurt anything but drop down to PTO gear 1 now.
    Hey Jean, I have the Operators manual that I had from old L1801. Just put your mailing address in a e-mail to me or a regular private message and the next time I am at the Post Office I will send it. My friend who bought my old tractor said that since I gave him 3 binders with copies of everything he did not need the original. I got this from Kubota and it was for a L185. It is a rather medium quality copy of the old original manuals and some of the graphics like a copy of a copy.

    Now after you clean the engine what you want to do is try and get every bit of grime and oil off of it so you can actually see the where the leak is coming from. I have this thing about using high temp silicone and if it is lightly used it is fine but if you need more it is a waste. That stuff is a mechanics nightmare getting off the parts when the rebuild happens so go light with it and if does not work then it is time to take it apart.
    The decompression lever looks like a choke cable arrangement to the left of the tach and near the fuse box cover on the dash. Pull the cable handle up when you try to start and the engine should spin easily and much faster then normal. Once the oil light goes off push the knob back in and you will have the engines normal compression and it should start easily.

    Any added weight you add should help in the cultivator.
    Oh yeah when starting after the filter change and bleeding I glowed plugged for a minute then I used the decompression lever and pulled it out and spun up the engine until the oil light went out then tried starting. It generally took a couple try's to start but it will catch and then I simply checked for leaks.
    Meanjean, When I replaced the radiator hoses on my L1801 I just took the old hoses off and made a trip to NAPA and they match the hoses on mine. I would recommend that you also replace the lower hose at the same time. That way you are in once and back out. ON the filter change you still will need to bleed the lines . There should be a screw in thing that has a straight slot screw driver thing next to the fuel filter and one on the pump. You loosen these until no more bubbles appear and then retighten. You do not completely remove these just loosen until the fuel starts out of them.
    If I was guessing on that other tractor I bet it's a safety switch that's keeping it from starting. I have had very good luck with my Kubotas. I have 2 right now, my 2nd and forth. My dad bought me a used B 7100 when I was a kid and I used that tractor for everything. I kept it for 16 yrs and when I traded it in on my L 3000 it had over 6000 hrs on it and still running fine. I bought a M 9000 in 02 and traded it in on a M 9000 cab model in 04. I would like to have another one in the 50 to 70 hp range. Good luck with your bota.
    On the radiator leak really check the upper and lower hoses as they are alot of the time they are really old. I have found more leaks from the hoses then the radiator itself. If the top or bottom of the tank are leaking then the radiator will have to be pulled and easiest thing to do is to find a radiator shop that can braze it. I would also at that time also have them "rod" the inner parts of the radiator and you will have then a complete rebuild of the radiator and not have to worry about it. If the radiator is rodded out I also would take the hoses off and go to NAPA and have them match or look up a L185 hoses as I believe that they are the same (I am not absolutely sure on this) as when I got my L1801 it had brand new hoses on it 7 years ago and never had to have them replaced. If you can not find a rad shop then a new radiator is the only option but that is expensive and you will have to order a radiator for a L185.
    Diesel engines have a set firing order like a gas engine and require fuel and air to run but that is about where the similarities end. Diesels don't require spark plugs to fire. They have a much higher compression ratio than gas engines do and actually compress the fuel until it burns. The diesel tractor I refered to with spark plugs in it is still a amazing feet of engineering to me. It was a old (50 something model) International Farmall M D. I guess the reason for what they did was simply a lack of diesel technology and this was how there starting problems were solved. This tractor was both a gas and diesel engine in one. It started on gas and after a short warm up you would switch it to diesel. After you switched it to diesel this is where you left it during operation. The gas was only for start up and shut down. It only idled during the gas operation. Pretty neat tractor though. It was a work horse back in the day.

    Been nice chatting with you. Drop me a line anytime.
    The oil filter is sitting sideways on the right hand side of the engine about half between the front and back side of the engine. The fuel filter is located near the rear of the engine on the right hand side. For life of me I do not remember the filter numbers but Mr K and Vic have the filter numbers for the Napa filters and they are made by Wix and are of high quality and they are what I used.

    Oh one thing when you repack the front hubs I used high temperature disc brake grease as it tended to be a better product and it did a better job of keeping the water out of the hubs if you keep your tractor outside. On mine it was always kept in the garage as I liked having a dry seat .
    meanjean, I am sorry but there is no known owner's manual for the L1801 in either hard copy or PDF. The closest North American manual for this model tractor is the owner's manual is the L185. I personally always serviced my old L1801 changing the oil and diesel filters every 100 hours or once a year which ever was first. Servicing the gearbox I did it once every 2 years and cleaning the transmission screen and I greased my L1801 every ten hours as grease is cheap but buying new tie rod ends is expensive. If you have the four wheel drive model I would also keep the front axle service every two years also if it is a 2 wheel drive model as I had I repacked the front hubs every year.
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