L35 TL720 Aluminum bucket cylinder head gland stuck! Replacment cylinder thoughts?

[Bigredmist]

Greetings to everyone and thank you for your input!

L35 serial number is 60657.

The right bucket cylinder is leaking badly. The left has fluid bleeding past the ram seals and Murphy says it too will leak soon.

Repairing existing cylinders:

• I have progressively tried everything to the point of heat and a 4' pipe wrench with a 4' cheater bar. The seal nut didn’t budge but it did deform considerably. I tried breaking the left side but I have not attempted full tilt and I don't expect it to play nice.
• I feel I have two destructive options left. 1) Excessive heat to essentially burn it out by melting the aluminum threads. 2) Take the cylinder to a machine shop and have them use a parting tool to remove some aluminum where the steel cylinder meets the aluminum gland nut. This should reduce the clamping force and require less effort to remove.
• The bucket cylinder “Head” aka "Gland Nut” 75590-13110 is obsolete and unavailable so repair is not an option. A new gland nut can be custom machined but this requires a gland nut in good shape for measurements and it's likely an expensive machining bill.

New cylinders option #1

• The bucket cylinder part number for an L35 after SN 24075 is 75582-64110
• Hydraulic Cylinders Inc. has this direct replacement for $1215 plus shipping.

New cylinders option #2

• Magister has WTC-20 cylinders that are much cheaper but they require some modification.
• The Kubota cylinder bore is 2.25” and the Magister is at 2” so slightly less power.
• Hose connections would be on the top instead of the side but NBD to me.
• The hydraulic hoses will need to be adapted to the 90*-3/8-ORB to JIC 9/16-18 thread.
• Open/extended, "pin center to center" is 2.5" longer which shouldn’t be an issue.
• Closed/retracted, "pin center to center" is 0.25” longer. I don't see this being a big issue for bucket angle while hauling a load or for the bucket curl limiter which should function as intended without adjustment.
• The biggest issue I see is having a machine shop bore the pin mounts on the cylinders from 1.02” to match the 30mm pins. This is a minimal amount of .22mm aka 0.18”.

Final thoughts:

• Obviously $500 plus a couple in machining beats the $2500 drop-in cylinder price.
• I think the machining costs for making new gland nuts would be considerably more than option #2 but I haven't priced this yet.
• Rebuild parts are available for the Magister cylinders.
• This is an older machine that may be taken down by a critical, "unavailable" part at any time.
• This machine already has an intermittent issue with not being able to move forward or reverse and the power steering stops working.

I would appreciate opinions, thoughts and any corrections on the information above.

Thank you for your time and help, David

 

[TheOldHokie]

Greetings to everyone and thank you for your input!

L35 serial number is 60657.

The right bucket cylinder is leaking badly. The left has fluid bleeding past the ram seals and Murphy says it too will leak soon.

Repairing existing cylinders:

• I have progressively tried everything to the point of heat and a 4' pipe wrench with a 4' cheater bar. The seal nut didn’t budge but it did deform considerably. I tried breaking the left side but I have not attempted full tilt and I don't expect it to playing nice.
• I feel I have two destructive options left. 1) Excessive heat to essentially burn it out by melting the aluminum threads. 2) Take the cylinder to a machine shop and have them use a parting tool to remove some aluminum where the steel cylinder meets the aluminum gland nut. This should reduce the clamping force and require less effort to remove.
• The bucket cylinder “Head” aka "Gland Nut” 75590-13110 is obsolete and unavailable so repair is not an option. A new gland nut can be custom machined but this requires a gland nut in good shape for measurements and it's likely an expensive machining bill.

New cylinders option #1

• The bucket cylinder part number for an L35 after SN 24075 is 75582-64110
• Hydraulic Cylinders Inc. has this direct replacement for $1215 plus shipping.

New cylinders option #2

• Magister has WTC-20 cylinders that are much cheaper but they require some modification.
• The Kubota cylinder bore is 2.25” and the Magister is at 2” so slightly less power.
• Hose connections would be on the top instead of the side but NBD to me.
• The hydraulic hoses will need to be adapted to the 90*-3/8-ORB to JIC 9/16-18 thread.
• Open/extended, "pin center to center" is 2.5" longer which shouldn’t be an issue.
• Closed/retracted, "pin center to center" is 0.25” longer. I don't see this being a big issue for bucket angle while hauling a load or for the bucket curl limiter which should function as intended without adjustment.
• The biggest issue I see is having a machine shop bore the pin mounts on the cylinders from 1.02” to match the 30mm pins. This is a minimal amount of .22mm aka 0.18”.

Final thoughts:

• Obviously $500 plus a couple in machining beats the $2500 drop-in cylinder price.
• I think the machining costs for making new gland nuts would be considerably more than option #2 but I haven't priced this yet.
• Rebuild parts are available for the Magister cylinders.
• This is an older machine that may be taken down by a critical, "unavailable" part at any time.
• This machine already has an intermittent issue that is likely caused by an internal failure of the TA040-61720 C-clip on the clutch pack. This repair will require splitting the machine for access.

I would appreciate opinions, thoughts and any corrections on the information above.

Thank you for your time and help, David

The 90 degree adapters are cheap.

Why would you not use the WTC-18 cylinder?

Dan

 

[Bigredmist]

The 90 degree adapters are cheap.

Why would you not use the WTC-18 cylinder?

Dan

The 90 degree adapters are cheap.

Why would you not use the WTC-18 cylinder?

Dan

Thank you for the reply Dan
My first choice was the WTC-18 but it is 1" too short for the full range of motion. It would reduce the dump travel on the bucket by 10". The longer WTC-20 will take away a little bucket return curl but it should be less than 2.5".

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank you for the reply Dan
My first choice was the WTC-18 but it is 1" too short for the full range of motion. It would reduce the dump travel on the bucket by 10". The longer WTC-20 will take away a little bucket return curl but it should be less than 2.5".

You might want to consider this

2 bore x 18 stroke Tang Welded Hydraulic Cylinder | Magister Hydraulics

2" bore x 18" stroke welded double-acting hydraulic cylinder with tang and narrow tube ends. Made for heavy-duty hydraulic equipment. It can be used for a variety of automotive hydraulic applications, waste, recycling, construction, transportation, agriculture, material handling. 3500 PSI max...

www.magisterhyd.com

Dan

 

[Bigredmist]

You might want to consider this

2 bore x 18 stroke Tang Welded Hydraulic Cylinder | Magister Hydraulics

2" bore x 18" stroke welded double-acting hydraulic cylinder with tang and narrow tube ends. Made for heavy-duty hydraulic equipment. It can be used for a variety of automotive hydraulic applications, waste, recycling, construction, transportation, agriculture, material handling. 3500 PSI max...

www.magisterhyd.com

Dan

I did look at that one because it has an almost perfect stroke. My concern is the 1.5" thick mountings. The centered force of 1.5" may bend the pins and damage to the loader frame holes. Since they both need reamed for the 30mm pins, I decided the 20" cross tube would be the safe choice with little to no tradeoff.

 

[Bigredmist]

You might want to consider this

2 bore x 18 stroke Tang Welded Hydraulic Cylinder | Magister Hydraulics

2" bore x 18" stroke welded double-acting hydraulic cylinder with tang and narrow tube ends. Made for heavy-duty hydraulic equipment. It can be used for a variety of automotive hydraulic applications, waste, recycling, construction, transportation, agriculture, material handling. 3500 PSI max...

www.magisterhyd.com

Dan

Thanks again for your input Dan, I do appreciate it. I just ordered the WTC-20 cylinders. My machinist at Southwick said machining new gland nuts would cost more than the cylinders. Robert also quoted $50 to $75 per cylinder to bore the new ones for 30mm pins.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks again for your input Dan, I do appreciate it. I just ordered the WTC-20 cylinders. My machinist at Southwick said machining new gland nuts would cost more than the cylinders. Robert also quoted $50 to $75 per cylinder to bore the new ones for 30mm pins.

I charged $100 including the wipers to make these two nuts. You probably dont want to know what I would charge for those rod ends....

Dan

 

[Bigredmist]

I charged $100 including the wipers to make these two nuts. You probably dont want to know what I would charge for those rod ends....

Dan

View attachment 180147

Perhaps if you could have offered earlier.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Perhaps if you could have offered earlier.

I wasnt offering because I cant do that stuff right now. It was a commentary on the quote from your machinist.

Dan

 

[Bigredmist]

These cylinders worked out very nicely. Easy install once the machining was completed. The machining cost $100 cash and he had them done that evening. O'Reilly Auto seemed a bit expensive on the new hoses, $280. I didn't consider the clearance of the lower fitting, "see photo", but it worked out.

 

[TheOldHokie]

These cylinders worked out very nicely. Easy install once the machining was completed. The machining cost $100 cash and he had them done that evening. O'Reilly Auto seemed a bit expensive on the new hoses, $280. I didn't consider the clearance of the lower fitting, "see photo", but it worked out.

Looking good. I think thats going to be a better solution than reworking those old cylinders.

Dan